Lower Control Arm Bushing Repair
#151
He said that if you have more than 2 oz of weight on your rim you probably need to have it road forced balanced. If the weights are on in the inside of the tire they need to be on very inside and outside and not all in the middle to be done correctly.
I need to look at my rims to make sure.
#152
Lexus Fanatic
I can't say what would cause/eliminate a shimmy, but I definitely had one and seems like the LCAs did it. But as I went even faster, 75+, seemed I still had one, less obvious than the 60-65, and I have to believe the alignment helped while a wheel balance did not (they were road force balanced already). I dunno if these cars can drive like a 2017 new car, I rather doubt it. But I do think the 11+ y.o. LS' can drive smoothly at 60-80 mph...just not perfectly like a brand new car (I have a 2017 Pathfinder rental right now and it's perfect at 3,100 miles)
#153
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Replaced both LCA bushings today. I would say it's an easy diy. Lift the front-end on jack stands. Remove the tires. Remove the cover from underbody. Use breaker bar to loosen the bolts and nuts. The bushings will slide out easily.
The old bushings were like many pictures posted here. Visible cracks and dry rubber. Interestingly old bushings just slide out using bare hands. But when putting on the new ones, I had to gently tap them with rubber mallet.
Bought a pair of OEM bushings on eBay for $100 (including 9.5% tax). Got them pressed in by a local machine shop for $50. Breaker bar was rented from AutoZone.
The car had a clunk when getting off/onto the driveway. Also clunked at expansion joints on the interstates. Its gone now. Lot smoother but I now notice that the front-end still clunks ocassionally. The fun of owning high mileage car.
The old bushings were like many pictures posted here. Visible cracks and dry rubber. Interestingly old bushings just slide out using bare hands. But when putting on the new ones, I had to gently tap them with rubber mallet.
Bought a pair of OEM bushings on eBay for $100 (including 9.5% tax). Got them pressed in by a local machine shop for $50. Breaker bar was rented from AutoZone.
The car had a clunk when getting off/onto the driveway. Also clunked at expansion joints on the interstates. Its gone now. Lot smoother but I now notice that the front-end still clunks ocassionally. The fun of owning high mileage car.
#154
Moderator
Replaced both LCA bushings today. I would say it's an easy diy. Lift the front-end on jack stands. Remove the tires. Remove the cover from underbody. Use breaker bar to loosen the bolts and nuts. The bushings will slide out easily.
The old bushings were like many pictures posted here. Visible cracks and dry rubber. Interestingly old bushings just slide out using bare hands. But when putting on the new ones, I had to gently tap them with rubber mallet.
Bought a pair of OEM bushings on eBay for $100 (including 9.5% tax). Got them pressed in by a local machine shop for $50. Breaker bar was rented from AutoZone.
The car had a clunk when getting off/onto the driveway. Also clunked at expansion joints on the interstates. Its gone now. Lot smoother but I now notice that the front-end still clunks ocassionally. The fun of owning high mileage car.
The old bushings were like many pictures posted here. Visible cracks and dry rubber. Interestingly old bushings just slide out using bare hands. But when putting on the new ones, I had to gently tap them with rubber mallet.
Bought a pair of OEM bushings on eBay for $100 (including 9.5% tax). Got them pressed in by a local machine shop for $50. Breaker bar was rented from AutoZone.
The car had a clunk when getting off/onto the driveway. Also clunked at expansion joints on the interstates. Its gone now. Lot smoother but I now notice that the front-end still clunks ocassionally. The fun of owning high mileage car.
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BCT (10-20-18)
#155
Instructor
Replaced both LCA bushings today. I would say it's an easy diy. Lift the front-end on jack stands. Remove the tires. Remove the cover from underbody. Use breaker bar to loosen the bolts and nuts. The bushings will slide out easily.
The old bushings were like many pictures posted here. Visible cracks and dry rubber. Interestingly old bushings just slide out using bare hands. But when putting on the new ones, I had to gently tap them with rubber mallet.
Bought a pair of OEM bushings on eBay for $100 (including 9.5% tax). Got them pressed in by a local machine shop for $50. Breaker bar was rented from AutoZone.
The car had a clunk when getting off/onto the driveway. Also clunked at expansion joints on the interstates. Its gone now. Lot smoother but I now notice that the front-end still clunks ocassionally. The fun of owning high mileage car.
The old bushings were like many pictures posted here. Visible cracks and dry rubber. Interestingly old bushings just slide out using bare hands. But when putting on the new ones, I had to gently tap them with rubber mallet.
Bought a pair of OEM bushings on eBay for $100 (including 9.5% tax). Got them pressed in by a local machine shop for $50. Breaker bar was rented from AutoZone.
The car had a clunk when getting off/onto the driveway. Also clunked at expansion joints on the interstates. Its gone now. Lot smoother but I now notice that the front-end still clunks ocassionally. The fun of owning high mileage car.
#156
Lexus Fanatic
Anybody else do a 4 wheel alignment after the job? I believe in theory, not absolutely necessary. I did as a result of scraping a winter rim, and 3/4 wheels were out. So this job plus the alignment really made the car ride nicely. No vibrations at 60-80 now (didn't test above that). Used to vibrate at 60, then after the bushing job, over 70. All gone. The moving target though, is the indie rebalanced the front wheels for free--possible the alignment didn't do anything and that balance did....I consider this a total bang for buck job.....
#157
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This seller keeps relisting as inventory is restocked. Sometimes at $88. Sometimes at $100. Keep watching. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252737649756.
#158
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#159
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Car drives straight (as it did before). I would still get an alignment sometime soon just for the sake of it. For me, the steering is linear now. Earlier, it was not as smooth. There was definitely some play being induced into front-end.
#160
Moderator
Cheap insurance.
#161
Lexus Fanatic
Dunno if you guys think a "lifetime" alignment is worth it.....my theory is on an older car, it may be more likely to be out more frequently, as a result of older parts. Then, since we may be repairing things more often, the car can be aligned again no extra charge. I paid $170 for it, so I figure break even upon the 2nd one. I think my local Firestone happens to be good--I checked Yelp and they got some good reviews, a couple stating this location is better than others nearby, so who knows if Firestone is good across the board. I think "lifetime" should have a worse break-even if I were the business, if it cost 3X, I wouldn't get it, but probably nobody would....I determined that with a breakeven of 2, it would be worth it. Had this in the 90's on my Volvo and I must have gone back every 3 mos. due to worn parts...
#162
old thread I know but my car needs this done. Car has 160k miles, drives smooth but the drivers side front bushing is shot. The passenger side one was replaced at some point because the original owner hit a curb and cracked a rim and damaged the caster bushing according to lexus service records. so it's fine but the drivers side is all over the place, car tries to steer itself etc.
What I wanted to know was of the people who used the ebay bushings with the brackets already installed, how have they held up? What about the bushing material compared to the originals? has anyone used IS bushings? Those come with an aluminum bracket installed already. I figure they fit since the FIGS poly bushings fit both cars, only difference being you have to pull off that oval washer for them to fit, If I dont go with the FIGS bushings I thought I'd get the IS ones since they are cheaper (OE is about the price of the ebay 430 ones) and have brackets installed. Also makes me wonder if the ISF had stiffer versions of the regular IS bushings, could be an OE upgrade without going all out. I know most people who own these cars dont want to sacrifice the ride at all, but I would not mind stiffening up this car quite a bit.
What I wanted to know was of the people who used the ebay bushings with the brackets already installed, how have they held up? What about the bushing material compared to the originals? has anyone used IS bushings? Those come with an aluminum bracket installed already. I figure they fit since the FIGS poly bushings fit both cars, only difference being you have to pull off that oval washer for them to fit, If I dont go with the FIGS bushings I thought I'd get the IS ones since they are cheaper (OE is about the price of the ebay 430 ones) and have brackets installed. Also makes me wonder if the ISF had stiffer versions of the regular IS bushings, could be an OE upgrade without going all out. I know most people who own these cars dont want to sacrifice the ride at all, but I would not mind stiffening up this car quite a bit.
#163
My 2001 has 240,000 on it, replaced the LCA bushings with the bushing and bracket from E-bay about 5 months ago.
It was a very simple job, drove the car up on ramps, didn’t even take the tires off, nor have I had it aligned, still drives straight. As far as the quality of the E-bay product, I can only give you that 5 months of history and that would be I have had zero issues with them. The $100 (or whatever it was) set off E-bay solved my problem, couldn’t have taken me more than 10 minutes a side to change out. Mine before replacement were shot, cracked, dry rotted with steering issues especially when braking also felt that it has a bit of wonder to it out on the interstate. If there was a difference in ride, to me was not noticeable.
With the exception of a few things I just can’t see paying OEM prices for a 16 almost 17 year old car with 240,000 miles. But that’s me and I’m sure other in here have an opinion OEM –vs- aftermarket. My question is: Would you even notice a difference between OEM and aftermarket LCA bushing on a car that has 240,000 on it? I’m thinking only a maybe and if you completely replaced all related rubber in the steering. But I’m just a do it my-self guy, as my wife continually reminds me after 36 years (or whatever that number is) of marriage, what do I know…
I just did brakes and wheel bearing hubs on all corners last weekend, Power Stop brake pads and rotors, Moog wheel bearing hubs from Amazon. Don’t think that I would be any happier with that outcome done any other way. It was time for the brakes and at least the right rear hub was on the way out. This car just needs to make it to 300,000 so I can go get my 460. I’ve owned my 430 now for just over 5 years, during that time I have put 125,000 on it. This car has been the best car I have ever had by far, it’s just starting to get dated for my taste, hence the 300,000 mile deadline and the 460, thinking 2012/2013.
Thoughts and bashings are welcome..
Steve
It was a very simple job, drove the car up on ramps, didn’t even take the tires off, nor have I had it aligned, still drives straight. As far as the quality of the E-bay product, I can only give you that 5 months of history and that would be I have had zero issues with them. The $100 (or whatever it was) set off E-bay solved my problem, couldn’t have taken me more than 10 minutes a side to change out. Mine before replacement were shot, cracked, dry rotted with steering issues especially when braking also felt that it has a bit of wonder to it out on the interstate. If there was a difference in ride, to me was not noticeable.
With the exception of a few things I just can’t see paying OEM prices for a 16 almost 17 year old car with 240,000 miles. But that’s me and I’m sure other in here have an opinion OEM –vs- aftermarket. My question is: Would you even notice a difference between OEM and aftermarket LCA bushing on a car that has 240,000 on it? I’m thinking only a maybe and if you completely replaced all related rubber in the steering. But I’m just a do it my-self guy, as my wife continually reminds me after 36 years (or whatever that number is) of marriage, what do I know…
I just did brakes and wheel bearing hubs on all corners last weekend, Power Stop brake pads and rotors, Moog wheel bearing hubs from Amazon. Don’t think that I would be any happier with that outcome done any other way. It was time for the brakes and at least the right rear hub was on the way out. This car just needs to make it to 300,000 so I can go get my 460. I’ve owned my 430 now for just over 5 years, during that time I have put 125,000 on it. This car has been the best car I have ever had by far, it’s just starting to get dated for my taste, hence the 300,000 mile deadline and the 460, thinking 2012/2013.
Thoughts and bashings are welcome..
Steve
#164
Lexus Fanatic
My 2001 has 240,000 on it, replaced the LCA bushings with the bushing and bracket from E-bay about 5 months ago.
It was a very simple job, drove the car up on ramps, didn’t even take the tires off, nor have I had it aligned, still drives straight. As far as the quality of the E-bay product, I can only give you that 5 months of history and that would be I have had zero issues with them. The $100 (or whatever it was) set off E-bay solved my problem, couldn’t have taken me more than 10 minutes a side to change out. Mine before replacement were shot, cracked, dry rotted with steering issues especially when braking also felt that it has a bit of wonder to it out on the interstate. If there was a difference in ride, to me was not noticeable.
With the exception of a few things I just can’t see paying OEM prices for a 16 almost 17 year old car with 240,000 miles. But that’s me and I’m sure other in here have an opinion OEM –vs- aftermarket. My question is: Would you even notice a difference between OEM and aftermarket LCA bushing on a car that has 240,000 on it? I’m thinking only a maybe and if you completely replaced all related rubber in the steering. But I’m just a do it my-self guy, as my wife continually reminds me after 36 years (or whatever that number is) of marriage, what do I know…
I just did brakes and wheel bearing hubs on all corners last weekend, Power Stop brake pads and rotors, Moog wheel bearing hubs from Amazon. Don’t think that I would be any happier with that outcome done any other way. It was time for the brakes and at least the right rear hub was on the way out. This car just needs to make it to 300,000 so I can go get my 460. I’ve owned my 430 now for just over 5 years, during that time I have put 125,000 on it. This car has been the best car I have ever had by far, it’s just starting to get dated for my taste, hence the 300,000 mile deadline and the 460, thinking 2012/2013.
Thoughts and bashings are welcome..
Steve
It was a very simple job, drove the car up on ramps, didn’t even take the tires off, nor have I had it aligned, still drives straight. As far as the quality of the E-bay product, I can only give you that 5 months of history and that would be I have had zero issues with them. The $100 (or whatever it was) set off E-bay solved my problem, couldn’t have taken me more than 10 minutes a side to change out. Mine before replacement were shot, cracked, dry rotted with steering issues especially when braking also felt that it has a bit of wonder to it out on the interstate. If there was a difference in ride, to me was not noticeable.
With the exception of a few things I just can’t see paying OEM prices for a 16 almost 17 year old car with 240,000 miles. But that’s me and I’m sure other in here have an opinion OEM –vs- aftermarket. My question is: Would you even notice a difference between OEM and aftermarket LCA bushing on a car that has 240,000 on it? I’m thinking only a maybe and if you completely replaced all related rubber in the steering. But I’m just a do it my-self guy, as my wife continually reminds me after 36 years (or whatever that number is) of marriage, what do I know…
I just did brakes and wheel bearing hubs on all corners last weekend, Power Stop brake pads and rotors, Moog wheel bearing hubs from Amazon. Don’t think that I would be any happier with that outcome done any other way. It was time for the brakes and at least the right rear hub was on the way out. This car just needs to make it to 300,000 so I can go get my 460. I’ve owned my 430 now for just over 5 years, during that time I have put 125,000 on it. This car has been the best car I have ever had by far, it’s just starting to get dated for my taste, hence the 300,000 mile deadline and the 460, thinking 2012/2013.
Thoughts and bashings are welcome..
Steve
I bought the OE for about $62 ea and paid almost $300 labor to have them pressed out and in. Glad I did it? Sure. Big improvement? No.
#165
well I know my car needs a drivers side bushing, it deflects really easily with a pry bar and the wheel shakes and moves very easily because that bushing is gone. The pass side one is better because it was changed at some point according to Lexus service records, the drivers side is probably original with 160k miles. I was just kinda contemplating buying the cheaper ebay bushings with the brackets to save my self the aggravation of getting the OEM ones pressed in and out or just buying the IS versions that come with the brackets already. At this point I think I may go the cheapest route as I just want the car back to at least OEM feel so its not all over the road and eating up the inside of my front tire. Once I have it solid to drive more often I will dive into 'improvements" which will probably include either the FIGS bushings or the RR Racing USRS with other suspension work to make this thing handle and ride a bit tighter, more like a European sports sedan.