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I think the Nick video is wrong, possibly. Note at the 16.00 minute point of the video, he has marked the RH cam pulley at the TDC position, but he's marked the LH cam pulley at the 50 degree mark, or "T" spot. I guess as long as you remember that, you're OK but it is confusing. AND get the belt to 50 degree after TDC for removal and installation. Am I thinking about this wrong?
Finished my TB this week, after about 20 hours of work over several days. This is a doable task, even for a mediocre tech. Here’s what I learned:
a. I bagged and labeled all fasteners by major assemblies (water pump, tensioner, covers, etc.). This makes reassembly so much easier.
b. Ordered the TKT021 kit from RockAuto, probably a bit more expensive than elsewhere but no issues with fakes.
c. Most important part of the job is the actual belt removal and reinstallation, and it’s easy to get confused by all the info out there. Here’s what worked for me:
d. Get engine to TDC first, using marks on both cams and crank. The crank will show as 0 degrees. All three will match up. If not, turn crank clockwise until they do.
e. Mark the installed belt and spots on the cams/crank.
f. THEN, turn crank clockwise to 50 degrees mark. Crank will line up with the “pin”, and cams will line up with the “T” marks.
g. Remove the belt by loosening the tensioner. Since you are at 50 degrees there is no pressure on either of the cams to rotate as the belt is removed.
h. Transfer marks from old belt to new belt. Double check this, and again carefully line up all the belt teeth on the two belts.
i. Install new belt, beginning at crank, moving to left cam, then right cam. You really have to pull on that belt to get the marks to match up but they will.
j. Fit the tensioner and gradually tighten those two bolts holding it to the engine block. You’ll feel the belt gradually tighten. Check your 3 marks to make sure they are still line up, then remove the pin holding the tensioner hydraulic compressed. No drama.
k. You’re home free at this point.
l. Strongly suggest use of a torque wrench…many of the fasteners are at 13 ft lbs going into rather soft aluminum. Easy to overtighten and strip things.
m. I did spark plugs, PCV valve, thermostat at same time, drained both sides of engine block of coolant. Might as well.
n. correct tools are really important--i used hose pliers, clamps, usual sockets/ratchets/extensions. My tired 1/2 inch Husky impact got the crank bolt off easily. No need for a puller on the crank dampener, it just slides right off.
anyway, i wouldn't hesitate to do it again, could probably do in 10 hours next time.
btw, my belt at 118k had zero wear, and the water pump had almost no seepage. I have no doubt this engine could have gone another 50k with no issues.
Last edited by toddmorr; Sep 1, 2019 at 12:04 PM.
Reason: added info
. Btw, my belt at 118k had zero wear, and the water pump had almost no seepage. I have no doubt this engine could have gone another 50k with no issues.
Was there fine black dust on the inside of the aluminum timing belt front covers? That's your belt wear.
FYI I've often wondered how can a water pump need replacement in only 90k? Guess what? My wife's GM failed at 87k. I fixed it yesterday and there are all kinds of grades of parts available. I used OE made in Canada...the kicker is none of the aftermarkets provide bolts and they are torque to yield at 89 in lbs (aftermarket also provides paper gaskets v OE metal), bolts list for $8.09 each, and 6 are needed. lol (American cars are not inexpensive to maintain)
RTV on both sides of the gasket imho was a great tip. There is zero clearance and it actually allowed not only the gasket to stay in place lined up with the holes, but even the pump stuck in place. Guys who gave this tip did the job 2X ouch...I can't imagine....
p.s. I just thought of this as well. About 2 mos. ago I found coolant on the driveway and wetness on my wife's subframe. Cleaned it up, drove, nothing, until last week. Likely the shaft had leaked, and then returned to seeping not enough to hit the ground. Then last week, total wetness and spray, clean up, same thing. Pump done. So my gut says leaks do not repair themselves, but they can change in severity prior to failing. We all know it, leaks are eventual doom, for anything, just a matter of how long we want to keep something. I've never understood that people get satisfaction out of say going 40k or 50k or 60k beyond the recommended interval. That would be like saying I bought facebook stock at 19. Cowboy comes to mind!
Was there fine black dust on the inside of the aluminum timing belt front covers? That's your belt wear.
yes, you're right,,there was some dark dust on the inside of right cover, now that you mention it. I didn't think much of it since it was minimal, and it clearly wasn't oil from the cam seal.
Attached are 3 pictures of timing belt marks that need to be correct AFTER you install the timng belt and hand crank the engine. I had a hard time finding the crankshaft timing mark so I took these pictures. If all 3 marks are lined up, you are in time. passenger side camshaft timing mark driver side camshaft timng mark crankshaft timng mark (noytch on pulley and dot on oil pump cover)
Last edited by dgeatdg; Sep 23, 2019 at 10:12 PM.
Reason: more information
My LS430 from 2004 got a new belt at 45.000 miles in august 2012 and it has now 75.000 miles. Can I take it for one more holiday or would it be an unnecessarily risk? I also drive with the original radiator which have to be replaced because of that tranny cooler intake (rusting out of the tube) problem.
So your car only has 75k miles after 16 years, and only 30k miles on a new timing belt?
I would not worry about that at all if I were you.
Focus on the rust cancer
My LS430 from 2004 got a new belt at 45.000 miles in august 2012 and it has now 75.000 miles. Can I take it for one more holiday or would it be an unnecessarily risk? I also drive with the original radiator which have to be replaced because of that tranny cooler intake (rusting out of the tube) problem.
If the trans cooler is leaking replace the radiator immediately then make sure the trans fluid level is correct.
So your car only has 75k miles after 16 years, and only 30k miles on a new timing belt?
I would not worry about that at all if I were you.
Focus on the rust cancer
When I sound detonaded the doors I saw a tiny little bit on those holes from with the outer plastic covers are mounted. I really want to kill that rust :@:@:@:@
By the way. When should I change the belt? Can I wait until oktober/november? I will be driving maximum 3-4000 miles because I like to go to meetings. I dont drive agressively but I really like to revv. No pops and bangs. Just revv it a little bit. They say that its not the belt what causes the problems but its the pump or some other stuff what can cut the belt when its to old.... Just want to be sure and want to go on one more holiday with my boat.
