step-by-step timing belt replacement LS430
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 244
From: Milwaukee, Wi
Unfortunately, that post is 7 years old, and what ever server those photos were on may no longer exist. That's one of the few inherent problems with these forums. The older posts/threads either drop off the server, or the photos disappear.
Keep searching and I'm sure you'll find detailed pictures. This is a highly discussed topic.
Keep searching and I'm sure you'll find detailed pictures. This is a highly discussed topic.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Pa
Problem during timing belt replacement
Let me start off by saying I'm new to this site and haven't done much mechanically to cars yet. Previous to this I've changed oil, brakes, rotors... That's about it. I researched this timing belt change a decent amount and thought I could handle it. Everything went so so until the crankshaft bolt. I didn't have an impact wrench that would fit, so I tried the starter bump method as described on here and on videos online. I bumped the starter several times
1) I don't think it worked (can't get bolt off, may have moved a little but not sure)
2) I tried it a second time, and now the starter won't engage at all.
I charged the battery to make sure I had enough juice. I did, and it still did not engage the starter.
I plan to borrow an air compressor and buy a shorter impact air wrench. Hopefully that will work.
My questions are:
1) Do you think I damaged my starter?
2) Is there a way to test the starter?
3) Should I put everything back after replacing the timing belt and hope it starts then?
I'm worried that I'll have to take everything apart again if the starter doesn't engage when completed.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Ian 2003 LS430 157k
1) I don't think it worked (can't get bolt off, may have moved a little but not sure)
2) I tried it a second time, and now the starter won't engage at all.
I charged the battery to make sure I had enough juice. I did, and it still did not engage the starter.
I plan to borrow an air compressor and buy a shorter impact air wrench. Hopefully that will work.
My questions are:
1) Do you think I damaged my starter?
2) Is there a way to test the starter?
3) Should I put everything back after replacing the timing belt and hope it starts then?
I'm worried that I'll have to take everything apart again if the starter doesn't engage when completed.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Ian 2003 LS430 157k
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Pa
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Pa
In the process, previous to this, I was attempting to remove the radiator. I accidentally unscrewed a bolt(top, right, in front of the radiator) that was part of the a/c line. Gas violently blew out. I thought it was unrelated to the starter at that time. I read a few things about a/c compressors becoming stuck when the pressure is released. Do you think this is related? Would I just have to add Freon, or did I destroy my compressor?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
I'm guessing you are not using a factory service manual to guide you. At this point with the starter and ac issues I think you might be in a little over your head. In your case I would have the car towed to a shop to complete the service. If the timing isn't set exactly you risk destroying your engine. You already cost yourself an ac recharge and an as yet undetermined electrical problem. Cut your losses and have a pro take over.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Pa
With a locked-up A/C compressor, the starter will still be able to turn the engine (the belt will slip and squeals at the A/C compressor pulley). There is a slight possibility that when you tried to bump start the engine to loosen the crankshaft bolt, the pinion gear in the starter is wedged by the flywheel and was not able to retract back into the starter housing. This COULD disable the starter. Try wiggling the crankshaft bolt back-and-fro to see if you can free the pinion gear (it's spring-return) from the flywheel.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
Nothing to be ashamed of. Some people never attempt to fix anything themselves. We were all beginners at some point. If you really do want to learn ask the shop you take it to some questions. Most are willing to show you what the various systems are, how they work, etc. Get a service manual and read it and try to diagnose something else and fix it. There is no substitute for hands on experience. YouTube videos are great but they rarely show all the steps or tools necessary which can lead to trouble.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Pa
Update
Nothing to be ashamed of. Some people never attempt to fix anything themselves. We were all beginners at some point. If you really do want to learn ask the shop you take it to some questions. Most are willing to show you what the various systems are, how they work, etc. Get a service manual and read it and try to diagnose something else and fix it. There is no substitute for hands on experience. YouTube videos are great but they rarely show all the steps or tools necessary which can lead to trouble.
Timing belt
Thermostat
Two pulleys
Hydraulic tensioner
Water pump
8 spark plugs
The dealer had to recharge a/c as well. There was no problem with the starter (not sure why it wasn't engaging when trying the starter bump method).
$675 dealer costs (including a/c recharge)
$240 for all parts
$915 total ($115/hr labor) It could have been a lot worse I think... Thanks again for the help.
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 2
From: TX
For those who have changed their own timing belt, is it necessary to jack up the front of the car? The only reason I can see to jack the car up is to remove the bottom cover, but i can remove it without jacking. If needed, what method did you use? (Ramps, stands, central jack, etc). I am about to tackle the job, and would rather have the front wheels on the ground for stability if possible.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
It is not absolutely necessary to lift the front of the car. It makes it easier for tasks like removing the radiator and trans lines. Removing the ac compressor bolts (2) is the other step in which it may be helpful. They can easily be removed from the front once you know where they are. I used jack stands when I did mine. If you are worried about stability you could always raise the car to remove what is necessary and then lower it for the remainder of the work.
What are you using for instructions? The video in the diy section is quite helpful and shows the correct alignment for the timing components before removal. The factory service manual is actually incorrect on this step but has the correct torque values for various parts. I would assume you are doing the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys at the same time?
What are you using for instructions? The video in the diy section is quite helpful and shows the correct alignment for the timing components before removal. The factory service manual is actually incorrect on this step but has the correct torque values for various parts. I would assume you are doing the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys at the same time?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 2
From: TX
It is not absolutely necessary to lift the front of the car. It makes it easier for tasks like removing the radiator and trans lines. Removing the ac compressor bolts (2) is the other step in which it may be helpful. They can easily be removed from the front once you know where they are. I used jack stands when I did mine. If you are worried about stability you could always raise the car to remove what is necessary and then lower it for the remainder of the work.
What are you using for instructions? The video in the diy section is quite helpful and shows the correct alignment for the timing components before removal. The factory service manual is actually incorrect on this step but has the correct torque values for various parts. I would assume you are doing the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys at the same time?
What are you using for instructions? The video in the diy section is quite helpful and shows the correct alignment for the timing components before removal. The factory service manual is actually incorrect on this step but has the correct torque values for various parts. I would assume you are doing the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys at the same time?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
The manual is definitely helpful. The correct procedure is to line up the timing mark (0°) on the crank with the pin (pointed out in the video). This will line up the cam pulleys with the cast-in "T" on the rear cam covers. The factory service manual says to rotate the crank 50° from straight up before you remove the tensioner and belt but this is too far and nothing lines up. The guy on the video is correct.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
Those pics aren't correct. Lining up the timing marks as you have shown is correct only for verifying correct phasing. If the marks don't line up the crank needs to be rotated 360°. For tensioner and belt removal the crank needs to be advanced until the notch on the pulley lines up with the pin behind it. This will advance the cams so they line up with the "T"s on the rear covers. This position has the least amount of pressure on the valve springs and keeps the pistons as far away from the valves as possible.
Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 730
From: Texas
Those pics aren't correct. Lining up the timing marks as you have shown is correct only for verifying correct phasing. If the marks don't line up the crank needs to be rotated 360°. For tensioner and belt removal the crank needs to be advanced until the notch on the pulley lines up with the pin behind it. This will advance the cams so they line up with the "T"s on the rear covers. This position has the least amount of pressure on the valve springs and keeps the pistons as far away from the valves as possible.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
What year is your manual for? My '01 manual shows to line up the timing marks like your pics and then rotate the crank 50° clockwise and remove everything. The .pdf you posted shows lining up the marks, rotating 50° clockwise, and then going back 50° counter clockwise, which would put you back where you started. I'm guessing both ways work as I did mine as instructed and you did yours as shown and both are still running. Interesting. I wonder when and why Lexus changed it.