step-by-step timing belt replacement LS430
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
Sorry, I'm sure I'm confusing matters even more. It actually says to start at zero and turn everything CCW 50 degrees. This is also referenced in post 10 of this thread. Then remove the belt. Then move cams and crank clockwise to zero for the install. The method of turning clockwise to the post and Ts makes more sense to me (otherwise, why are they even there), and I intend to just change it that position. The manual I have is for the LS430 but it does not say the year.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 878
Likes: 232
From: Arizona
I don't know where you found that but my actual factory service manual has a different, i.e. correct procedure. How can you rotate the engine ccw with the crank bolt? It'll just loosen the bolt, not rotate the engine.
Driver
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 82
Likes: 17
From: MA
I got it from TIS a couple of years ago. Some Toyota V8s specify 50 degrees BTDC and some specify 50 ATDC, depends on year. I believe it works fine either way. There are also threads about this in the SC430 forum. I deleted my FSM images because the easiest way is to change it at the post, but there is certainly more than one way to do this.
Last edited by heartygrn; Mar 31, 2021 at 09:17 AM. Reason: grammar
Driver
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 82
Likes: 17
From: MA
Thanks, I returned my Aisin kit but I took pictures of the instructions. While generic, they are very straightforward. I already removed the belt at the post and nothing moved. I plan to install it where it is.
Driver
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 82
Likes: 17
From: MA
Finished this job successfully and also included a new radiator and hoses, serpentine belt idlers and tensioner, and the spark plugs (original with 215K). Should be set for a while. Thank you to all who contributed to this thread. If anyone is attempting this the OTRAMM videos on youtube are very helpful too.
8th Gear
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 15
From: MN
I had posted this in a new thread and someone suggested I put it here as well; I just finished doing the timing belt on my 2004 LS430 and typed up the notes I took. There's a combination of pictures I took, pictures from the parts manual (from here), and most of the torque specs should be there too. The repair is very doable if you take your time and stay organized. Nothing is terribly complicated, but there are just a lot of parts to take off and put back on. I watched the video in the FAQ thread several times before and followed along for the disassembly and timing belt swap, then went off of the notes I took to put everything back together.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 504
Likes: 54
From: wa
I had posted this in a new thread and someone suggested I put it here as well; I just finished doing the timing belt on my 2004 LS430 and typed up the notes I took. There's a combination of pictures I took, pictures from the parts manual (from here), and most of the torque specs should be there too. The repair is very doable if you take your time and stay organized. Nothing is terribly complicated, but there are just a lot of parts to take off and put back on. I watched the video in the FAQ thread several times before and followed along for the disassembly and timing belt swap, then went off of the notes I took to put everything back together.
Before I attempted the timing belt replacement on a 2005 Lexus LS430 (45,000 miles) I did all the following:
1) Printed the typed instructions by jimdwright (Post #1)
2) Printed Timing belt change instructions by a repair shop
3) Printed the typed information by spiccato (Post #161)
4) Looked at other posts by fellow members on this current thread
5) Watched Youtube video as posted by grewolf40 (Post #44)
6) Watched Youtube video (How To Automotive: How To Replace Timing belt and Water pump on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470).
Prior to the timing belt attempt, I’ve performed front & rear suspension change, brakes, spark plugs, oil, automatic transmission fluid drain and fills (on the 6 speed WS ATF type), brake flushes, and differential drain and fills.
I watched the youtube videos numerous times before starting and during the timing belt change. This timing belt change would have been my biggest challenge and the videos didn’t make it look that bad.
I completed the timing belt change, water pump, tensioner, pulley, v-belt, spark plugs, radiator, radiator hoses (x2), and thermostat. After filling up the radiator with coolant, I attempted to start the car and the car’s starter turned over but the car didn’t start. I attempted a few more times but still the same thing. I had a scangauge connected at the time and I saw the battery voltage start around 12.2 volts and drop to 10.9 volts so I thought I may have a weak battery. I connected to charge and attempted to start the car again and no change.
I googled “Timing belt change and car won’t start.” I read stories of similar conditions and the stories of pistons meeting the valves.
During the timing belt change, I was nearly certain that all three timing marks were correct and manually rotated the crankshaft 720 degrees without any resistance. I connected a OBD II monitor and the code was P0335 Crankshaft Position “A” Circuit Malfunction.
At this point, I did not want to take everything apart again. I had to look for a repair shop that had the capability to take everything apart, make sure the timing was correct, and reassemble everything together. An additional component was that if the valves were bent, could the repair shop handle this.
If the valves were bent and the engine had to be repaired, I wasn’t sure that I would have confidence in the car again to be as reliable as Toyota’s original build.
In my search, I found TLC Independent Toyota Lexus Care (San Diego on Raytheon Road) and decided to have them evaluate.
They repaired the car (start to finish was less than 24 hours so essentially one business day).
Turns out that when I placed the driver’s side camshaft cover, I crimped a wire and this is what led to the no-start condition. However, the timing marks were correct and there were no belt valves or pistons.
My learning point from this is that I probably wouldn’t attempt this again unless it was a $500 beater car and I didn’t have much to lose.
Another learning lesson is that watching the two different youtube videos added a little bit of confusion. The video from post #44 performed the timing belt removal with the crankshaft rotated to 50 degrees. This meant that the left (driver) and right (passenger) camshaft marks were at the “T” mark instead of the “I” mark (not Top Dead Center, TDC).
The youtube video by “How To Automotive” (How to Replacing timing belt and water pump on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470) performed the timing belt at TDC.
I saw that the video on post #44 marked the timing belt in various places; I did this as well. I think I became lackadaisical on the paint markings on the belt (from old belt to new belt) once I realized that the new belt had three different arrows marked on the belt (left camshaft, right camshaft, and crankshaft).
I can’t stress the importance of marking the paint in the exact locations from the old belt (if your timing belt never was out of alignment) to the new belt. I think the little alignment mark on the crankshaft is difficult to see. I relied on the three arrows lining up, placed the new tensioner on and pulled the pin. I then manually rotated the crankshaft 720 degrees and felt no resistance. The built in marks on the metal of the crankshafts lined up to the “I” and the crankshaft appeared to be where it should be.
Before buttoning everything back up for good, I think it’s important to also place the crankshaft “degree indicator” back on to make sure that the crankshaft is at 0 degrees and the camshafts are at the “I” mark again (with additional manual rotation).
Question to those who have performed the timing belt successfully. Is it possible to start the engine after the spark plugs are in to make sure that everything starts up fine without having to place the radiator and coolant back in? The tear down process is a pain if one happens to discover that the engine doesn’t start after completion.
1) Printed the typed instructions by jimdwright (Post #1)
2) Printed Timing belt change instructions by a repair shop
3) Printed the typed information by spiccato (Post #161)
4) Looked at other posts by fellow members on this current thread
5) Watched Youtube video as posted by grewolf40 (Post #44)
6) Watched Youtube video (How To Automotive: How To Replace Timing belt and Water pump on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470).
Prior to the timing belt attempt, I’ve performed front & rear suspension change, brakes, spark plugs, oil, automatic transmission fluid drain and fills (on the 6 speed WS ATF type), brake flushes, and differential drain and fills.
I watched the youtube videos numerous times before starting and during the timing belt change. This timing belt change would have been my biggest challenge and the videos didn’t make it look that bad.
I completed the timing belt change, water pump, tensioner, pulley, v-belt, spark plugs, radiator, radiator hoses (x2), and thermostat. After filling up the radiator with coolant, I attempted to start the car and the car’s starter turned over but the car didn’t start. I attempted a few more times but still the same thing. I had a scangauge connected at the time and I saw the battery voltage start around 12.2 volts and drop to 10.9 volts so I thought I may have a weak battery. I connected to charge and attempted to start the car again and no change.
I googled “Timing belt change and car won’t start.” I read stories of similar conditions and the stories of pistons meeting the valves.
During the timing belt change, I was nearly certain that all three timing marks were correct and manually rotated the crankshaft 720 degrees without any resistance. I connected a OBD II monitor and the code was P0335 Crankshaft Position “A” Circuit Malfunction.
At this point, I did not want to take everything apart again. I had to look for a repair shop that had the capability to take everything apart, make sure the timing was correct, and reassemble everything together. An additional component was that if the valves were bent, could the repair shop handle this.
If the valves were bent and the engine had to be repaired, I wasn’t sure that I would have confidence in the car again to be as reliable as Toyota’s original build.
In my search, I found TLC Independent Toyota Lexus Care (San Diego on Raytheon Road) and decided to have them evaluate.
They repaired the car (start to finish was less than 24 hours so essentially one business day).
Turns out that when I placed the driver’s side camshaft cover, I crimped a wire and this is what led to the no-start condition. However, the timing marks were correct and there were no belt valves or pistons.
My learning point from this is that I probably wouldn’t attempt this again unless it was a $500 beater car and I didn’t have much to lose.
Another learning lesson is that watching the two different youtube videos added a little bit of confusion. The video from post #44 performed the timing belt removal with the crankshaft rotated to 50 degrees. This meant that the left (driver) and right (passenger) camshaft marks were at the “T” mark instead of the “I” mark (not Top Dead Center, TDC).
The youtube video by “How To Automotive” (How to Replacing timing belt and water pump on a 2002-2009 Lexus GX470) performed the timing belt at TDC.
I saw that the video on post #44 marked the timing belt in various places; I did this as well. I think I became lackadaisical on the paint markings on the belt (from old belt to new belt) once I realized that the new belt had three different arrows marked on the belt (left camshaft, right camshaft, and crankshaft).
I can’t stress the importance of marking the paint in the exact locations from the old belt (if your timing belt never was out of alignment) to the new belt. I think the little alignment mark on the crankshaft is difficult to see. I relied on the three arrows lining up, placed the new tensioner on and pulled the pin. I then manually rotated the crankshaft 720 degrees and felt no resistance. The built in marks on the metal of the crankshafts lined up to the “I” and the crankshaft appeared to be where it should be.
Before buttoning everything back up for good, I think it’s important to also place the crankshaft “degree indicator” back on to make sure that the crankshaft is at 0 degrees and the camshafts are at the “I” mark again (with additional manual rotation).
Question to those who have performed the timing belt successfully. Is it possible to start the engine after the spark plugs are in to make sure that everything starts up fine without having to place the radiator and coolant back in? The tear down process is a pain if one happens to discover that the engine doesn’t start after completion.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Fla
Packing
I just completed changing timing belt, water pump and idlers on my 2001 LS430. I used factory manual steps which were sometimes confusing and caused me to take much more time than I thought it should. I put together a detailed step by step combining what I used from the factory manual with what worked for me. YMMV . Hope it's not inappropriate to include:
Timing Belt Replacement – LS430 – probably GS430, LX470, Sequoia and other 8-cyl Toyota and Lexus
I used an OEM Kit: Aisin TKT-021 for about $180 with Aisin water pump, Mitsubishi belt, 2 idler pulleys and belt tensioner.
REMOVAL (does NOT include water pump)
1. DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2. REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET NO. 1 – IT COVERS THE RADIATOR ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.
3. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE COVER (V-BANK COVER)
4. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT – RADIATOR DRAIN ON DRIVER’S SIDE W/TUBE COMING DOWN AND A COUPLE OF DRAIN PLUGS ON ENGINE IF YOU WANT.
5. RAISE FRONT OF CAR ON EITHER SIDE TO MAKE EASIER TO WORK UNDER – JACK UNDER FRAME
6. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE UNDER-COVER.
7. DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES – UPPER HOSE AT BOTH ENDS, LOWER HOSE AT TOP.
8. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER HOSES AND STUFF HOSES AND RADIATOR TUBES W/EAR PLUGS
9. REMOVE COVER OF AIR CLEANER ASSY - REMOVE 2 SCREWS ON REAR OF COVER TO REMOVE ELECTRICAL AND TUBE ASSY.
10. REMOVE LOWER AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY – 1 BOLT ON SIDE, 1 BOLT ON FRONT
11. REMOVE AIR INLET TUBE (4” DIAMETER) AT ENGINE END
12. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN PLUG AND TAKE CABLE OFF OF RETAINERS
13. REMOVE LEFT AND RIGHT UPPER RADIATOR RETAINER BRACKETS
14. LIFT RADIATOR & FAN ASSEMBLY UP AND OUT – CLEAN RADIATOR FINS AS NEEDED, GLUE ON FOAM PACKING AS NEEDED.
15. REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT – TURN TENSIONER BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
16. REMOVE UPPER RIGHT (PASS. SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER. REMOVE CAP NUT, OPEN TUBING RETAINER, ETC.
17. REMOVE UPPER LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER.
a. Remove cap nut and disconnect water bypass pipe from the cover. Also disconnect at the passenger side end.
b. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector (2 wires) – pry the connector holder loose from the cover w/screwdriver
c. Remove the sensor wire from the clip and remove the wire grommet from the cover.
d. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the cover, passing the sensor connector through the hole in the cover. Keep the gasket with the cover.
18. Remove 2 bolts holding timing belt cover 2 – black plastic part with engine number on it.
19. Remove the tensioner assembly for the serpentine belt. (2 nuts and 1 bolt) Remove the small idler pulley to access one of the bolts. This also requires removing a bolt and 2 nuts from the alternator, which traps the tensioner. Hold the alternator and move it forward off it’s stud so that you can move the tensioner from behind and off the stud, then slide the alternator back on the stud.
20. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly (small idler you just removed and a larger smooth one are on the assembly. This requires either removing (2 tough Philips screws) or bending the sheet metal “wire holder” attached to or near the A/C compressor to free the end of the idler pulley assy near the A/C compressor. To remove the water pump, you will have the challenging job of removing the upper and lower A/C compressor mounting bolts. I've added pictures to help.
21. Loosen the crankshaft bolt (22mm) – it’s a normal thread CCW to loosen – hit a few times with a hammer, then use an impact wrench. If that doesn’t work, put an 18 inch or so cheater pipe on a ½ inch breaker bar with tape to hold in place. Turn the crank so with the socket on the bolt, the end of the cheater is just touching the ground towards the driver’s side.
22. Temporarily reconnect the battery ground and hit the starter. Once should do it. Disconnect the battery ground.
23. Turn the crank clockwise with the bolt until the timing mark is at 0 and both camshaft timing marks are straight up (yellow paint on v at back of camshaft pulleys). Turn crank CW around to 0 again if camshaft marks aren’t straight up the first time. Now turn the crank CW about 50 degrees – a stable location for the cam shafts when you release the timing belt.
24. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt without rotating the crank (or only a tiny bit).
25. Remove the crankshaft damper (pulley) using a steering wheel puller or similar (Autozone loaner). Need 2ea 8mm 1.25 pitch X about 2 inches bolts to screw into the holes in the damper/pulley. The holes will be rusty, but you won’t need to screw them in far. You may want to still have the part-way out crankshaft bolt in place when you start pulling the damper.
26. Remove the timing belt cover around the crank. 4 bolts with the upper one recessed.
27. Remove the toothed crankshaft angle sensor plate (keyed to the crankshaft). Put a note on it which side is out or towards the front.
28. Carefully mark the existing timing belt at the camshaft timing marks on both camshaft pulleys with thin marks – maybe across the whole width of the belt. Make an arrow on the belt pointing “front” and an L next to the left hand mark and an R next to the right hand mark. On the right side of the crankshaft timing belt pulley make a narrow reference mark and make a corresponding mark on the belt. You will be transferring these marks exactly to the new belt.
29. Remove the 2 bolts (a little on one then a little on the other etc.) holding the timing belt tensioner (1+ inch diameter and 4 inches tall) located beneath the left (passenger side) timing belt idler pulley.
30. Remove the rubber boot from the top and inspect for leakage. If leaking replace; if not, replace the rubber boot with the side opening positioned directly between the bolt holes (front of car when installed). Using a very small Allen wrench, turn the piston so that its hole lines up with the hole in the boot. Fully depress the piston with a press or putting between a jack and a frame member of the car. Slip the small Allen wrench through the hole in the boot and through the hole in the piston pin to hold the piston retracted. Release the pressure from the press or jack and set aside for reinstallation.
31. Remove the timing belt.
32. Transfer the timing marks from the old belt to the new one, keeping the marks narrow. Also transfer the “front” arrow and the R and L. Compare the belts several times to make absolutely sure that the marks are in precisely the same locations.
33. This is the point at which you can remove the two timing belt idlers – the right one only a roller, the other a roller attached to the tensioner fixture. Takes a large Allen wrench to remove the pivot bolt to free the tensioner-idler assy. Inspect. Replacement optional, but inexpensive and easy while you’re in there.
INSTALLATION:
1. To make belt installation easier you may want to turn the left (pass. side) pulley a few degrees clockwise and the right (driver’s side) camshaft pulley about ½ that distance clockwise.
2. Install the new timing belt taking care that your marks on the belt exactly match those on the 3 timing pulleys. After you have the belt on with marks lined up, do not turn the crank pulley until you have the tensioner reinstalled or the belt will slip one or more places and you’ll mess everything up.
3. Install the belt tensioner with the 2 bolts. Pull out the Allen wrench to release the piston.
4. Starting with 27. above, work backward and re-assemble everything, making sure that no hoses or connectors have been missed.
5. Refill the radiator very slowly with 50-50 mix of Toyota red coolant and distilled water. Burp the system by squeezing the two radiator hoses from time to and if the level goes down, add more coolant. When full, put on the radiator cap. Run the engine at about 2500rpm until hot with the heater temp turned to high. Let the engine cool and top off the radiator. Fill the coolant reservoir to the full mark. Check again after a couple of days of driving.
Timing Belt Replacement – LS430 – probably GS430, LX470, Sequoia and other 8-cyl Toyota and Lexus
I used an OEM Kit: Aisin TKT-021 for about $180 with Aisin water pump, Mitsubishi belt, 2 idler pulleys and belt tensioner.
REMOVAL (does NOT include water pump)
1. DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2. REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET NO. 1 – IT COVERS THE RADIATOR ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.
3. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE COVER (V-BANK COVER)
4. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT – RADIATOR DRAIN ON DRIVER’S SIDE W/TUBE COMING DOWN AND A COUPLE OF DRAIN PLUGS ON ENGINE IF YOU WANT.
5. RAISE FRONT OF CAR ON EITHER SIDE TO MAKE EASIER TO WORK UNDER – JACK UNDER FRAME
6. REMOVE MAIN ENGINE UNDER-COVER.
7. DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES – UPPER HOSE AT BOTH ENDS, LOWER HOSE AT TOP.
8. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER HOSES AND STUFF HOSES AND RADIATOR TUBES W/EAR PLUGS
9. REMOVE COVER OF AIR CLEANER ASSY - REMOVE 2 SCREWS ON REAR OF COVER TO REMOVE ELECTRICAL AND TUBE ASSY.
10. REMOVE LOWER AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY – 1 BOLT ON SIDE, 1 BOLT ON FRONT
11. REMOVE AIR INLET TUBE (4” DIAMETER) AT ENGINE END
12. REMOVE RADIATOR FAN PLUG AND TAKE CABLE OFF OF RETAINERS
13. REMOVE LEFT AND RIGHT UPPER RADIATOR RETAINER BRACKETS
14. LIFT RADIATOR & FAN ASSEMBLY UP AND OUT – CLEAN RADIATOR FINS AS NEEDED, GLUE ON FOAM PACKING AS NEEDED.
15. REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT – TURN TENSIONER BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
16. REMOVE UPPER RIGHT (PASS. SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER. REMOVE CAP NUT, OPEN TUBING RETAINER, ETC.
17. REMOVE UPPER LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) TIMING BELT COVER.
a. Remove cap nut and disconnect water bypass pipe from the cover. Also disconnect at the passenger side end.
b. Disconnect the camshaft position sensor connector (2 wires) – pry the connector holder loose from the cover w/screwdriver
c. Remove the sensor wire from the clip and remove the wire grommet from the cover.
d. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the cover, passing the sensor connector through the hole in the cover. Keep the gasket with the cover.
18. Remove 2 bolts holding timing belt cover 2 – black plastic part with engine number on it.
19. Remove the tensioner assembly for the serpentine belt. (2 nuts and 1 bolt) Remove the small idler pulley to access one of the bolts. This also requires removing a bolt and 2 nuts from the alternator, which traps the tensioner. Hold the alternator and move it forward off it’s stud so that you can move the tensioner from behind and off the stud, then slide the alternator back on the stud.
20. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly (small idler you just removed and a larger smooth one are on the assembly. This requires either removing (2 tough Philips screws) or bending the sheet metal “wire holder” attached to or near the A/C compressor to free the end of the idler pulley assy near the A/C compressor. To remove the water pump, you will have the challenging job of removing the upper and lower A/C compressor mounting bolts. I've added pictures to help.
21. Loosen the crankshaft bolt (22mm) – it’s a normal thread CCW to loosen – hit a few times with a hammer, then use an impact wrench. If that doesn’t work, put an 18 inch or so cheater pipe on a ½ inch breaker bar with tape to hold in place. Turn the crank so with the socket on the bolt, the end of the cheater is just touching the ground towards the driver’s side.
22. Temporarily reconnect the battery ground and hit the starter. Once should do it. Disconnect the battery ground.
23. Turn the crank clockwise with the bolt until the timing mark is at 0 and both camshaft timing marks are straight up (yellow paint on v at back of camshaft pulleys). Turn crank CW around to 0 again if camshaft marks aren’t straight up the first time. Now turn the crank CW about 50 degrees – a stable location for the cam shafts when you release the timing belt.
24. Use the impact wrench to loosen the bolt without rotating the crank (or only a tiny bit).
25. Remove the crankshaft damper (pulley) using a steering wheel puller or similar (Autozone loaner). Need 2ea 8mm 1.25 pitch X about 2 inches bolts to screw into the holes in the damper/pulley. The holes will be rusty, but you won’t need to screw them in far. You may want to still have the part-way out crankshaft bolt in place when you start pulling the damper.
26. Remove the timing belt cover around the crank. 4 bolts with the upper one recessed.
27. Remove the toothed crankshaft angle sensor plate (keyed to the crankshaft). Put a note on it which side is out or towards the front.
28. Carefully mark the existing timing belt at the camshaft timing marks on both camshaft pulleys with thin marks – maybe across the whole width of the belt. Make an arrow on the belt pointing “front” and an L next to the left hand mark and an R next to the right hand mark. On the right side of the crankshaft timing belt pulley make a narrow reference mark and make a corresponding mark on the belt. You will be transferring these marks exactly to the new belt.
29. Remove the 2 bolts (a little on one then a little on the other etc.) holding the timing belt tensioner (1+ inch diameter and 4 inches tall) located beneath the left (passenger side) timing belt idler pulley.
30. Remove the rubber boot from the top and inspect for leakage. If leaking replace; if not, replace the rubber boot with the side opening positioned directly between the bolt holes (front of car when installed). Using a very small Allen wrench, turn the piston so that its hole lines up with the hole in the boot. Fully depress the piston with a press or putting between a jack and a frame member of the car. Slip the small Allen wrench through the hole in the boot and through the hole in the piston pin to hold the piston retracted. Release the pressure from the press or jack and set aside for reinstallation.
31. Remove the timing belt.
32. Transfer the timing marks from the old belt to the new one, keeping the marks narrow. Also transfer the “front” arrow and the R and L. Compare the belts several times to make absolutely sure that the marks are in precisely the same locations.
33. This is the point at which you can remove the two timing belt idlers – the right one only a roller, the other a roller attached to the tensioner fixture. Takes a large Allen wrench to remove the pivot bolt to free the tensioner-idler assy. Inspect. Replacement optional, but inexpensive and easy while you’re in there.
INSTALLATION:
1. To make belt installation easier you may want to turn the left (pass. side) pulley a few degrees clockwise and the right (driver’s side) camshaft pulley about ½ that distance clockwise.
2. Install the new timing belt taking care that your marks on the belt exactly match those on the 3 timing pulleys. After you have the belt on with marks lined up, do not turn the crank pulley until you have the tensioner reinstalled or the belt will slip one or more places and you’ll mess everything up.
3. Install the belt tensioner with the 2 bolts. Pull out the Allen wrench to release the piston.
4. Starting with 27. above, work backward and re-assemble everything, making sure that no hoses or connectors have been missed.
5. Refill the radiator very slowly with 50-50 mix of Toyota red coolant and distilled water. Burp the system by squeezing the two radiator hoses from time to and if the level goes down, add more coolant. When full, put on the radiator cap. Run the engine at about 2500rpm until hot with the heater temp turned to high. Let the engine cool and top off the radiator. Fill the coolant reservoir to the full mark. Check again after a couple of days of driving.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 504
Likes: 54
From: wa
I though about DIY with Lexus parts, then I decided to have the dealer do it.
So over the weekend, my local Lexus completed the job with out the door price $1,780
here is the brake donw:
timing belt, water pump, drive belt, new thermostat, coolant
I think price is reasonable, got a loaner for a day. Also knowing if I DIY, probably a few days work.
So over the weekend, my local Lexus completed the job with out the door price $1,780
here is the brake donw:
timing belt, water pump, drive belt, new thermostat, coolant
I think price is reasonable, got a loaner for a day. Also knowing if I DIY, probably a few days work.
2nd gear
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
This guy just did a video for a timing belt job on a LS430:
https://youtu.be/fijX1VN-ImM
https://youtu.be/fijX1VN-ImM
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