step-by-step timing belt replacement LS430
#91
Lexus Champion
Those pics aren't correct. Lining up the timing marks as you have shown is correct only for verifying correct phasing. If the marks don't line up the crank needs to be rotated 360°. For tensioner and belt removal the crank needs to be advanced until the notch on the pulley lines up with the pin behind it. This will advance the cams so they line up with the "T"s on the rear covers. This position has the least amount of pressure on the valve springs and keeps the pistons as far away from the valves as possible.
#92
Instructor
What year is your manual for? My '01 manual shows to line up the timing marks like your pics and then rotate the crank 50° clockwise and remove everything. The .pdf you posted shows lining up the marks, rotating 50° clockwise, and then going back 50° counter clockwise, which would put you back where you started. I'm guessing both ways work as I did mine as instructed and you did yours as shown and both are still running. Interesting. I wonder when and why Lexus changed it.
#93
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Indiana
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The reason that the camshafts are positioned at their respective "T" is to equalize lifter forces so the cams don't turn when the timing belt is removed. On my second timing belt replacement I followed the service manual and turned the crankshaft too far. As soon as the timing belt was off, both cams suddenly spun, stopping only when a valve hit a piston on each side. Fortunately this didn't do any damage, but it got my attention. Follow the video and hints in this forum to set the crank/cam positon correctly for belt removal, take off the tensioner, then turn the passenger side cam clockwise just a hair more to take the tension off the water pump loop. Now the belt is easy to remove and replace. (Don't turn either camshaft counterclockwise because the bolts are just covering a hole and they will likely unscrew.)
#94
The reason that the camshafts are positioned at their respective "T" is to equalize lifter forces so the cams don't turn when the timing belt is removed. On my second timing belt replacement I followed the service manual and turned the crankshaft too far. As soon as the timing belt was off, both cams suddenly spun, stopping only when a valve hit a piston on each side. Fortunately this didn't do any damage, but it got my attention. Follow the video and hints in this forum to set the crank/cam positon correctly for belt removal, take off the tensioner, then turn the passenger side cam clockwise just a hair more to take the tension off the water pump loop. Now the belt is easy to remove and replace. (Don't turn either camshaft counterclockwise because the bolts are just covering a hole and they will likely unscrew.)
This is my 5th or 6th timing belt job, but first on this vehicle. I've followed "Nick's" youtube video in parallel with the Lexus service manual for the LS430, and the only real place it differs is with marking the timing on the crank shaft pulley (CSP): After you have the cams at top & the CSP at zero, the manual says to turn the CSP 50 degrees clockwise, and make the timing mark in-line between the CSP bolt and the No. 2 timing belt idler pulley bolt, which is 15-20 degrees further than the small marking post on the bottom timing belt cover.
Based on your experience, it sounds like that 50 degrees is too far, and the marking post on the timing cover may be the safer marking spot.
Does that sound correct everyone?
#96
Thanks for the quick reply! Info overload got me paranoid, so wanted to triple-check and save the mega headache & expense.
#97
Lexus Fanatic
I envy you guys tackling this job
I decided to open up the wallet and spend $7xx to have a shop do it now, rather than end of year. I haven't hit 90 yet but figure what the hey, let's get this car tip top and be done with it...
I decided to open up the wallet and spend $7xx to have a shop do it now, rather than end of year. I haven't hit 90 yet but figure what the hey, let's get this car tip top and be done with it...
#98
Lexus Fanatic
So I had it towed into a dealership. I had everything out and organized except for the crank bolt. I previously bought all parts on Amazon or an auto parts store, which I had them replace:
Timing belt
Thermostat
Two pulleys
Hydraulic tensioner
Water pump
8 spark plugs
The dealer had to recharge a/c as well. There was no problem with the starter (not sure why it wasn't engaging when trying the starter bump method).
$675 dealer costs (including a/c recharge)
$240 for all parts
$915 total ($115/hr labor) It could have been a lot worse I think... Thanks again for the help.
Timing belt
Thermostat
Two pulleys
Hydraulic tensioner
Water pump
8 spark plugs
The dealer had to recharge a/c as well. There was no problem with the starter (not sure why it wasn't engaging when trying the starter bump method).
$675 dealer costs (including a/c recharge)
$240 for all parts
$915 total ($115/hr labor) It could have been a lot worse I think... Thanks again for the help.
#99
Driver School Candidate
Hi Guys,
I am a newbie here. I just bought a 2002 LS430 with 82k miles. The previous (only) owner had the timing belt replaced at the dealer when the car had 60k miles in January 2008. Do you think it is necessary to replace the timing belt now with just 22k miles on the present belt? I know it was installed 10 years ago.
I am a newbie here. I just bought a 2002 LS430 with 82k miles. The previous (only) owner had the timing belt replaced at the dealer when the car had 60k miles in January 2008. Do you think it is necessary to replace the timing belt now with just 22k miles on the present belt? I know it was installed 10 years ago.
#100
Hi Guys,
I am a newbie here. I just bought a 2002 LS430 with 82k miles. The previous (only) owner had the timing belt replaced at the dealer when the car had 60k miles in January 2008. Do you think it is necessary to replace the timing belt now with just 22k miles on the present belt? I know it was installed 10 years ago.
I am a newbie here. I just bought a 2002 LS430 with 82k miles. The previous (only) owner had the timing belt replaced at the dealer when the car had 60k miles in January 2008. Do you think it is necessary to replace the timing belt now with just 22k miles on the present belt? I know it was installed 10 years ago.
For what it's worth, I'm more of a "why risk it?" type of guy...
#101
Moderator
Piece of mind? You bet... And doing it myself saved me from spending more than I needed to. So for me it was an easy choice.
#102
Agreed... I've done the timing belts on both my LS's in the last 3 months and neither one showed much wear at all. My 2005 had just 59,000 on it and the parts all basically looked new, and my 2001 with 197,000 had roughly 93K on the second belt, and it too looked to be in very good shape. The water pump was clean and showed minimal wear and the tensioner/idler pulleys all looked fine on both cars.
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Geekbiker (06-22-18)
#104
Moderator
And something that hasn't been brought up before... sure a lot of people, like yourself, have changed their TB and said that it "looked new still" or "barely worn", but is it not possible that something like the TB can still "look fine" after so many miles and years but still be susceptible to failure? Just because something doesn't present any obvious signs of wear externally doesn't mean it isn't structurally degraded and weakened. I'd hate to take the timing cover off to replace it, see a belt that looks fine and put it right back together... only to have the TB snap in 6 months time.