2000 ls400 ac issues
I recently picked up a 2000 ls400. Just did a timing belt waterpump and all that jazz. The ac wasn't working becuase the wiring was tore off the comp clutch. I got that fixed and began charging the system. It took about 3 cans and the compressor would run about every 30 seconds for 1 second. I hot wired the MG CLT becuase ive had to do that on other cars and trucks. It blew the "discharge" hose almost immediately. The guages read EXTREMELY HIGH on the high side. Im talking 700psi. Im completly new to lexus and completly a noob at A/C. my guess is expansion valve. So I wanted to replace the drier, expansion valve, and discharge hose. Is this the right assumption. I've owned the car for a week and have spent like over 5k so I'd like to keep it pretty cheap. Thanks in advance.
yikes about hot wiring the compressor? if you are new, i would not have done that for risk for injury but glad you are alright to tell us about the tale.
AC is a specialized skill where many things can go wrong. i try to stay away from those cans you get from the auto store since they only bandaid the solution which is usually much larger. better to take it to an AC specialist who can diagnose it. you'll likely spend too much shotgunning the solution yourself.
AC is a specialized skill where many things can go wrong. i try to stay away from those cans you get from the auto store since they only bandaid the solution which is usually much larger. better to take it to an AC specialist who can diagnose it. you'll likely spend too much shotgunning the solution yourself.
AC is not filled by volume, like those cans you buy at the store. It is filled by weight, which can only properly be measured by a machine. I would recommend disconnecting the AC compressor, do not run it, and take it to a shop that does AC work. I DIY anything and everything, but AC is something you need the pro's for.
You say you used 3 cans, you had 700psi?
That sure don't sound right to me. Take it to the pros.yikes about hot wiring the compressor? if you are new, i would not have done that for risk for injury but glad you are alright to tell us about the tale.
AC is a specialized skill where many things can go wrong. i try to stay away from those cans you get from the auto store since they only bandaid the solution which is usually much larger. better to take it to an AC specialist who can diagnose it. you'll likely spend too much shotgunning the solution yourself.
AC is a specialized skill where many things can go wrong. i try to stay away from those cans you get from the auto store since they only bandaid the solution which is usually much larger. better to take it to an AC specialist who can diagnose it. you'll likely spend too much shotgunning the solution yourself.
Last edited by paulo57509; Jun 23, 2021 at 05:44 PM.
Do yourself a favour, if you want to ensure your $5K you've already spent is'nt wasted, then get your AC sorted professionally! messing with the pressures' and complexity involved can be and is dangerous.
I suspect the system will require a full purge/evacuation and then fill/re-pressuring.
I suspect the system will require a full purge/evacuation and then fill/re-pressuring.
I understand everyone’s concern. I’ve never had a car in a shop and I’ve done everything from soldering ecu’s and building wiring harnesses to building motors. As long as im upright that’s the way it will be. I’ll be changing the expansion valve, drier, and the discharge tube. I’ll be back with updates in case someone winds up with the same issues and situation.
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I understand where you are coming from LSforhunet. I DIY 9 times out of 10. I do however agree with the others here that it is pretty smart to let the experts deal with the AC.
My 1995 only needed a refill. 40% was left and it was really weak. Probably 10-15 years since last refill. Now AC works very well again and they fixed it fast for a modest charge.
My 1995 only needed a refill. 40% was left and it was really weak. Probably 10-15 years since last refill. Now AC works very well again and they fixed it fast for a modest charge.
I do my own AC work and the necessary equipment even to do simple repairs isn't cheap. You find out pretty quick that there are no cheap shortcuts to get a system properly repaired and working efficiently.
Absolute minimum are a gauge set, vacuum pump, leak sniffer (or an old school propane sniffer) and a flushing tool (those can and hose deals leave a lot to be desired).
Don't ever introduce any kind of stop leak in your system.
This is a good place for info and Q&A: https://autoacforum.com/index.php
Absolute minimum are a gauge set, vacuum pump, leak sniffer (or an old school propane sniffer) and a flushing tool (those can and hose deals leave a lot to be desired).
Don't ever introduce any kind of stop leak in your system.
This is a good place for info and Q&A: https://autoacforum.com/index.php
Best practice when replacing AC Compressor, pressure/return lines, dryer, evaporator, etc. is to evacuate the system... this requires professional equipment to avoid venting into atmosphere...
Recharging the system requires use of correct type, amount and mix of compressor oil.
This is something I prefer dealer to manage.
In fact, if necessary to validate Denso aftermarket compressor warranty requires proof that dryer was replaced and certified mechanic performed refill of freon/oil mix.
Recharging the system requires use of correct type, amount and mix of compressor oil.
This is something I prefer dealer to manage.
In fact, if necessary to validate Denso aftermarket compressor warranty requires proof that dryer was replaced and certified mechanic performed refill of freon/oil mix.
Last edited by YODAONE; Jul 6, 2021 at 07:03 PM.
I recently picked up a 2000 ls400. Just did a timing belt waterpump and all that jazz. The ac wasn't working becuase the wiring was tore off the comp clutch. I got that fixed and began charging the system. It took about 3 cans and the compressor would run about every 30 seconds for 1 second. I hot wired the MG CLT becuase ive had to do that on other cars and trucks. It blew the "discharge" hose almost immediately. The guages read EXTREMELY HIGH on the high side. Im talking 700psi. Im completly new to lexus and completly a noob at A/C. my guess is expansion valve. So I wanted to replace the drier, expansion valve, and discharge hose. Is this the right assumption. I've owned the car for a week and have spent like over 5k so I'd like to keep it pretty cheap. Thanks in advance.
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