Code 13 (yes another thread.)
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Code 13 (yes another thread.)
I have been dealing with this horse shIzz for a while now. And I keep throwing parts at it and im tired. piggyback is gone. Injectors are in. Lots of small stuff. I keep throwing a Code 13 - which is bank 2 timing - but everything is fine. The timing is spot on, the cam position sensor tested just fine. I was testing it hot and cold and the sensor would only change by like 6 ohms. Drivers side is changing by almost 100.
So I replace the cam sensor as a precaution. and it gets WORSE! What the fudge david blaine. But I noticed the rotor was trashed - AGAIN! this is the second rotor that side has eaten. In less than 2000 miles.
I dont even know where to go from here and I have a race event on the 19th and I need the car finished to drive all the way out there on the 18th. 11 days to get this piece on the road PROPER. Anybody have any advice??
Yamae? lol
So I replace the cam sensor as a precaution. and it gets WORSE! What the fudge david blaine. But I noticed the rotor was trashed - AGAIN! this is the second rotor that side has eaten. In less than 2000 miles.
I dont even know where to go from here and I have a race event on the 19th and I need the car finished to drive all the way out there on the 18th. 11 days to get this piece on the road PROPER. Anybody have any advice??
Yamae? lol
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 98
From: ca
Explain how the rotor is trashed? Burnt? Cracked? Have you tried another coil? What spark plug gap? What all parts have you thrown at it? Not sure of the spec for temp change on cam sensor, but I'd swap it or a used one just to see if there is a change. With out a scope it can be a hit and miss deal. I wonder if the igniter could assist in throwing the code. I'd have to hit the books. The ecu controls it all did you do yamaes test?
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
The first rotor popped out of place - WITH BOTH SCREWS IN IT! It pushed out and trashed the cap too. Replaced both and then I took the rotor off to put the new cam sensor on and the rotor had a piece missing from it. Yet another new one has been put in and still no change.......
It is getting worse. The car is trying to die. Stumbles at high RPM. Just a mess and I cant take this shizz much more before I drain the 93 nonethanol and light it on fire.
Parts ive thrown at it. 4 sets of plugs, wires, caps, rotors, cam sensor, fuses, ive tested everything and it just all is coming back fine yet it runs like garbage. I am worried about internal damage or something.
I do not have a way to test the ECU because I dont have a ripple tester or anything.
It is getting worse. The car is trying to die. Stumbles at high RPM. Just a mess and I cant take this shizz much more before I drain the 93 nonethanol and light it on fire.
Parts ive thrown at it. 4 sets of plugs, wires, caps, rotors, cam sensor, fuses, ive tested everything and it just all is coming back fine yet it runs like garbage. I am worried about internal damage or something.
I do not have a way to test the ECU because I dont have a ripple tester or anything.
Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 98
From: ca
Like cobalt says, you must have something going on with that distributor or cam . Something maybe loose. That all could very well be the problem and not all the parts you changed. Its likely a mechanical issue not electrical and all the parts you tossed at it are electrical. If its getting worse something may let go, you need to check that side real well for loose stuff.
code 13..timing belt is off a tooth..cam sensor is bad..or..check the wiring to that sensor. if the pigtail has been damaged it will cause this code as well.
what was the reason for doing all this work to begin with? what problem(s) were u initially having.
what was the reason for doing all this work to begin with? what problem(s) were u initially having.
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Like cobalt says, you must have something going on with that distributor or cam . Something maybe loose. That all could very well be the problem and not all the parts you changed. Its likely a mechanical issue not electrical and all the parts you tossed at it are electrical. If its getting worse something may let go, you need to check that side real well for loose stuff.
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Lead Lap
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 98
From: ca
did you see this link??
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ew-member.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ew-member.html
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
I started throwing parts at it when I got the code. I ended up dropping the tensioner off, moving the belt, and putting a new tensioner on. Code never went away. The cold would effect it too. When its cold, runs like a raped ape. Gets hot and its ****.
Sensor and pigtail are fine, its new. The belt was dead on last time I looked, I need to look again because I was installing my new electric fan and I looked up and saw some carnage.
Sensor and pigtail are fine, its new. The belt was dead on last time I looked, I need to look again because I was installing my new electric fan and I looked up and saw some carnage.
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 397
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Car is going to be run at the track
New belt kit is on the way
Belt is shot. tbelt idler is shot, and timing is WAYYYY off. Crank is on 10 degrees retarded. Bank 2 cam is 4 teeth past the mark and bank one is 2 teeth before the mark.
New belt kit is on the way
Belt is shot. tbelt idler is shot, and timing is WAYYYY off. Crank is on 10 degrees retarded. Bank 2 cam is 4 teeth past the mark and bank one is 2 teeth before the mark.