aptoslexus

I'm doing my timing belt because I have a three day weekend. Looks like I'm going to need all three days to finish the job. Maybe more. My problem is that I can't get the new belt on. It's like it's a half inch too short or something. I've had the timing marks dead on on both pulleys but couldn't get it around the water pump pulley. When I snake it over one cam pulley and through the water pump pulley, it won't fit over the other cam. I've moved both cams back and forth trying to get slack, but I just don't get enough. I haven't pulled the pin on the tensioner, so there should be adequate slack. Is there a trick I'm missing?

python

iTrader: (4)

compare it to the old belt,make sure its the correct length

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

we have thoughts and ideas for you but we are not sure they are for your model

YOU SHOULD ALWAYS give your year model when asking for help...
I will say the 98-2000 models have a longer belt than the earlier models although they are all LS400's.
211 teeth to 209 teeth.. count yours.

aptoslexus

Sorry, I have a 98. I resolved the issue by taking out the tension pulley, installing the belt, and then reinstalling the tension pulley. Probably not the smartest route, as putting sideways tension on that bolt while driving might be a recipe for ruined threads, but I was frustrated as hell. And it worked.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

good finish, enjoy the next 100k

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

yes i found the new belt to be a tight fit when installing but it will go over the pulleys eventually. glad it worked out!

aptoslexus

A couple of notes. I use the starter bump method of removing the crank bolt. Just put a 22mm socket on a breaker bar, lay it on the ground, and bump the starter once (after disabling ignition). Bolt is instantly loose without muscle or crawling around on the ground to wedge something against the flywheel. Do this before setting your timing marks. You can crank the engine around to hit your marks with the bolt finger tight. When you hit your marks, just hit the wrench with a rubber mallet to remove the bolt. The crank won't turn, leaving you on your marks.

I also used this method to tighten the crank bolt: Basically the same method used to take it off. Used a $2.50 Home Depot 2x4. And no crawling under the car.

Edit. Oh, yeah, one other thing. The timing marks on the new belt rub right off with handling, so it's a good idea to use some paint or something to mark them a little more permanently. I was right in the middle of trying to get the belt on when I noticed the cam mark had disappeared. Fortunately, I had marked the old belt with the timing marks so I could count the teeth on that one and transfer the mark at the correct spot on the new belt.

dicer

Or 3/8 steel flat bar, or angle iron maybe 3/16 to 1/4 material thickness, wood may work once and also it may just split too. Also if your set on wood go for a good 3/4 thick hardwood.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

or wedge an large allen key into the flexplate through the transmission access panel to lock the motor from spinning while removing the crank bolt...

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

^ do at your own risk. mine is a california car which doesn't see extreme temps. results vary!