Key "case" / "shell" replacement
#1
Key "case" / "shell" replacement
Hey everyone,
My key works fine in terms of keyless entry and starting the car. However, the "case" or "shell" of the key (the part that sits on the end of the metallic key that houses the keyless entry "pod") has started to crack, and given that this is the part that you hold when you start the engine it is getting more and more difficult to start the car because the housing is starting to fall away from the rest of the key.
So my question is, how do I go about getting a "donor" key or something along those lines where I can swap cases and get my key back to normal? Has anyone else gone through this?
Thanks,
Dan
My key works fine in terms of keyless entry and starting the car. However, the "case" or "shell" of the key (the part that sits on the end of the metallic key that houses the keyless entry "pod") has started to crack, and given that this is the part that you hold when you start the engine it is getting more and more difficult to start the car because the housing is starting to fall away from the rest of the key.
So my question is, how do I go about getting a "donor" key or something along those lines where I can swap cases and get my key back to normal? Has anyone else gone through this?
Thanks,
Dan
#3
But it looks like the shell can be unscrewed from one key and screwed onto another. Are you sure that it has to be cut again?
#4
The key blade can't be unscrewed...it's sort of moulded into the plastic.
I got my replacement key from eBay seller 1010keys for $25. Sent them a good pic of the blade (didn't have the code) and they cut it.
I got my replacement key from eBay seller 1010keys for $25. Sent them a good pic of the blade (didn't have the code) and they cut it.
#7
By the way, does anyone know if it's substantially better to go with the keycode option over the picture-of-your-key option? If so then I can wait until Monday and call my local Lexus dealership to try and get the keycode (I'm the second owner).
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#8
Got the new key shell plus laser cut key in the mail today from 1010keys. The fit is very nice and the key works just as well in my ignition as the original key.
Last edited by dantampa; 07-07-15 at 11:57 AM.
#10
I ordered "REPAIR your 3 BUTTON REMOTE KEYS to our PRE-CUT QUALITY SHELLS / KEY." I already had the working "guts" or "internals" of the key (the part that sends out the keyless entry signals and that presumably has the "security chip" in it for starting the car). I just needed a new shell with the right key part attached to it to swap my old internals into (the key part is not easily separable from the shell). I sent the seller a couple of photos of my key (using my iPhone) and they were able to reproduce my key from that.
#12
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iTrader: (2)
They're a sponsor on our community but appears they sell via dealers
http://www.eternitykey.com/dealers
http://www.eternitykey.com/dealers
#13
Good to know and thanks everyone for their input and thread work here. Let me know if you guys want me to do a write up of the ignition cylinder clean out I am going to do first on my 1990 LS and then on my 2000 LS.
The process was sent with my replacement keys and is listed as preventive maintenance to lessen or eliminate key breakage. It seems we are making metal sludge each time the key is inserted over the years, which lays at the bottom of the cylinder preventing full engagement. We then turn the key against the 'stops', so to speak, breaking the case apart.
My advice is to push the key in with two fingers and do the same when twisting it to start. No full three or four finger grasps. If it does not turn, wiggle it a bit back and forth and maybe displace some of the sludge so the key can drop a little further into the cylinder.
Busy right now with my power steering and tensioner pulley remove and repair on my 1990, but I'll take pics of the ignition cylinder clean out when I get to it later on. Again let me know if there is interest in me posting a thread on it.
Debbie
The process was sent with my replacement keys and is listed as preventive maintenance to lessen or eliminate key breakage. It seems we are making metal sludge each time the key is inserted over the years, which lays at the bottom of the cylinder preventing full engagement. We then turn the key against the 'stops', so to speak, breaking the case apart.
My advice is to push the key in with two fingers and do the same when twisting it to start. No full three or four finger grasps. If it does not turn, wiggle it a bit back and forth and maybe displace some of the sludge so the key can drop a little further into the cylinder.
Busy right now with my power steering and tensioner pulley remove and repair on my 1990, but I'll take pics of the ignition cylinder clean out when I get to it later on. Again let me know if there is interest in me posting a thread on it.
Debbie
#15
The Eternity Key is sold through Lexus dealers and it is the strongest key on the market. It includes a lifetime warranty and you will never have to buy another key again. Trust the Eternity Key. Visit www.eternitykey.com for dealer locations.
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