Rear Suspension/Shock Deflating - HELP!
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Rear Suspension/Shock Deflating - HELP!
My 1993 LS400, 200,000+ miles, has an intermittently deflating left rear shock when parked.
Is it likely to be the air-shock itself? or the electronics controlling it. what about replacement of OEM shock OR changing to a strut?
All advice appreciated!
Is it likely to be the air-shock itself? or the electronics controlling it. what about replacement of OEM shock OR changing to a strut?
All advice appreciated!
#2
BahHumBug
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9.9/10 the bag is blown if it's original.
replacement isn't cheap at all, but if you convert to conventional spring/shock you have to do all 4. Still cheaper than getting even one new OEM shock.
Please search for advice on how to do the actual conversion as we have myriad threads on the topic.
replacement isn't cheap at all, but if you convert to conventional spring/shock you have to do all 4. Still cheaper than getting even one new OEM shock.
Please search for advice on how to do the actual conversion as we have myriad threads on the topic.
#4
Just a dumb question here. Lets say a person has this system and is on a long road trip and one air shock goes bad. I guess it would be like a flat tire you could be marooned in the middle of nowhere. Is the car still drivable?
#5
They don't generally fail instantly leaving the tire on the fender arch, the pump will keep up the pressure in the strut while the engine is running. They only drop when the car is stood like overnight so you would be very unlucky to be completely stranded.
#6
I thought the pump will run when the car is just sitting to keep it off the snubbers. In the manual it says to turn off the air system when jacking the car up. If it didn't run with the ignition turned off there would be no reason to turn it off then? .
#7
BahHumBug
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That's actually completely incorrect. on early (1st generation) cars you had to turn the compressor off because the car would try to level if you turned the ignition to ACC with the car jacked up. The suspension deciding to move and upset itself while the car may be partially jacked up was a safety concern.
The Air suspension compressor is inactive unless the main ignition switch is activated.
The Air suspension compressor is inactive unless the main ignition switch is activated.
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PD, what has me buffaloed is that the LR shock doesnt always deflate. I read in one of the threads t:hat one guy gave the suspension a kick to HIGH before shutting down the car.... I tried that and the suspension has stayed UP for several days now [car not driven].
If the shock bag were blown, wouldnt it deflate every time the compressor was turned off for any length of time?
If the shock bag were blown, wouldnt it deflate every time the compressor was turned off for any length of time?
#9
BahHumBug
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not necessarily. It could be that there's an issue with the compressor/controller but i've next to never heard of it.
more than likely is that it's leaking from the ends of the bags and the extra pressure ('high height') is pressing the leaking spot against the retainer a little better.
more than likely is that it's leaking from the ends of the bags and the extra pressure ('high height') is pressing the leaking spot against the retainer a little better.
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Rear Suspension Deflated - UPDATE
My rear suspension is now 100% deflated and resting fully on the snubbers. Driving the car is a combination Low Rider and buckboard. I recently replaced the RR suspension link [it was broken] and noted that the LR link is "tight" tho still intact. I am assuming that the compressor is still functioning, as the front suspension still inflates...
So I guess the question is: Is it time to convert over to all conventional struts? Anyone have any idea how much this is likely to cost???
The car has other smaller issues: slight crack in RF exhaust manifold which will need replacing eventually; instrument cluster that needs to be pulled and reworked [the lazy diode problem]. but otherwise it runs great and looks just a good - thanks to original enamel paint. With the exception of a small area over the RR wheel well, the car is 100% rust free over and under.
I'm really on the fence as to whether to fish or cut bait here. Could be time for a used RX-350 AWD. I hear they are FANTASTIC cars.
Any input/advice surely appreciated!
So I guess the question is: Is it time to convert over to all conventional struts? Anyone have any idea how much this is likely to cost???
The car has other smaller issues: slight crack in RF exhaust manifold which will need replacing eventually; instrument cluster that needs to be pulled and reworked [the lazy diode problem]. but otherwise it runs great and looks just a good - thanks to original enamel paint. With the exception of a small area over the RR wheel well, the car is 100% rust free over and under.
I'm really on the fence as to whether to fish or cut bait here. Could be time for a used RX-350 AWD. I hear they are FANTASTIC cars.
Any input/advice surely appreciated!
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