Me again..

Well with the extension and a 16mm spark plug socket it seems to be a no go. The spark plug socket is too thick to fit into the opening that leads down the ~8 inch tunnel (not sure what it's called). After all of the spark plug write ups I have yet to see any mention of this happening. The socket is made by Pittsburgh if that does anything for y'all.

On a more positive note-I did my first DIY oil change on the 99 LS. What a great feeling. Took me the better half of the day to finish everything from retreiving my lent out jack stands to bringing all of the oil to the recycling center. Anyway I had a ton of fun dinking around under the car for most of the day.

Up next will be the trans fluid drain and fill along with the trans mount and last but not least the spark plugs.


Thank you again for all of the help.

Matt

 

just get any thin wall 5/8" old school spark plug socket from ebay from Craftsman or most any other older brand, will work fine, even a Husky or a Kobalt (Home Depot & Lowes) should be fine

 

my regular spark plug sockets fit just fine, sounds like you're using the wrong size.

 

A regular spark plug socket should work if the wall is not too thick. But the problem is once you've got the plug loose...how do you get it out with a regular socket? A 'spark plug' socket should have a rubber/foam insert for the plug to slip into so that when you pull the socket out the plug is still in place. My socket is about 30 years old and comes from an old K-mart socket set. But still works.
A better solution for me is to use an old spark plug wire off my daughter's Honda as the tool to both insert and remove the plug. I cut off the wire and just use the boot portion. The plug fits right into the boot and is just long enough to reach and keep excellent control on the plug so no chance of cross threading. The wire is just the right size to make it easy to attach the plug and insert into the shaft for insertion. Sometimes the socket with the extension is a bit too long to work with. Another tool I've found helpful is a reacher tool:
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...FSEV7AodcXoAtQ

One of the nice things about the plugs in the Lexus is you don't have to use a universal. Straight extensions with the right socket are all you need. So much easier than my 1974 Camaro with the 350 in it. These cars are actually fun to work on.

I know you're not too experienced with all this. Watch some youtube videos to understand more and then make sure you have all your tools and items laid out before you start. Makes the job that much smoother and faster.

Good luck and have fun.

 

On some cars with particularly narrow "down in a hole" access, I use this cool magnetic plug socket

 

is your socket a deep socket impact (black color)? you'll need a thin wall (usually chrome) deep socket 5/8" which usually has a rubber o-ring on the side to "catch" or hold the spark plug as you pull it out of the "tunnel". most socket/ratchet sets i've seen always included a this particular socket.

 

youre probably using the correct size, and like previously mentioned, some sockets of the same size have a different outer diameter. pittsburgh (harbor freight,) and some other companies use a steel that isnt as strong as others, so to make up for it they add more steel = thicker outer diameter.

and like legender said, if you were to use a regular (Non spark plug) socket, you can just use a spark plug wire to install/remove the spark plug. doesnt have to be used

also, remember spark plugs do not require much torque for installation,
and DONT use anti seize

 

that's right! - 13 FT-LBS IS NOT MUCH!

 

torque specs
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...e.asp?mode=nml

installation instructions
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml

tech bulletin about NOT using anti seize
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

 

regardless of what NGK says for the torque, Toyota says 13 ft-lbs!

 

sure, if you got the manufacturers torque spec, use that! most people dont so i supplied ngks recommended torque specs. i myself am currently looking for the fsm for my sc.

 

SC400 is also 13 ft-lbs. - not sure about SC300 though, but I bet it's close

 

Proper D, I have no idea that harbor freight used lesser quality steel. Very good to know. Anyhoo...my torque wrench by neiko arrived in the mail yesterday so the only missing link is the spark plugs and socket which I'll end up running down to the local hardware or auto shop to pick up.

It's not a impact socket but it may as well be from what ProperD was saying the company I got it from makes up for the quality of the steel by just putting more onto everything they make.

Woohoo, my FIPG, and plug gaskets arrived today. My 4 quarts of ATF should be arriving shortly as well.

While you're all here, have any of you had bad experiences with IAC nipples shattering off of the housing? There are 3 hoses that come away from the IAC, 1 that comes off of the side facing the radiator, 1 that comes out towards the driver side and connects to the back of the top intake manifold and one that comes out towards the windshield and connects below the IAC, not sure what.

The problem is somebody before me busted the last hose nipple I listed and left the nipple in the hose and used some sort of ble k conpund to keep the nipple glued in there. there is no way that this is close to perfectly air tight. I'm hard pressed to find anyone else on here with any IAC hose/niple problems. Really makes me realize that doing the work on your own car sure can he worth it so you don't have some idiot savant man handling stubborn parts and busting them :'(