Och

iTrader: (3)

So, I'm in the middle of a timing belt/water pump replacement, and I think I've messed up. I got to the point where I aligned the cam pulleys and crankshafter pulley, and removed the timing belt. And now it's time to remove the damn crankshaft pulley bolt, which I can't seem to get. But that's not the main problem, the problem is that while I've been trying to get it off, I turned the crank full 360 several times, and then I realized something - even if I align it with the 0 mark again, it may not necessary be aligned with cams, since it only aligns every other turn. How can I determine if the alignment is correct?

Och

iTrader: (3)

By the way, once I get to the water pump, how far am I from the headgasket? I'm doing the repair because my water pump was faulty, and I've been drivin for a while with overheating engine, and while I didn't blow the head gasket, I imagine it might have sustained some damage, and it's not a bad idea to have it replaced.

19psi

1. as long as your cams are lined up correctly, you can always rotate the crank as much as you need to get it lined up with the corrrect mark.
2. that bolt is tight! i use my air impact, but i guess you don't have one... you could always try the breaker bar against the floor while you bump the starter for a split second. it works fine, i've done it many times. remember the engine rotates clockwise so you will want the bar wedged into the floor on the drivers side... make sure you have everything out of the way that might get hit by the bar if it pops up.
3. you have 2 head gaskets. they are completely different from the water pump area. you would have to remove teh entire intake plenum and manifold. then valve covers. then exhaust. then you can unb9olt the heads and replaced the HG's. i wouldn't worry about it until you have the rest of your wp/tbelt done and see if you still have an overheating problem.

19psi

i just realized i forgot to mention that you have to make sure your number 1 cyl. is at top dead center when you line up the mark on the crank.

Lexushead

Alignment:
1. Put a long screw driver or dowel in #1 cylinder.
2. Rotate the crank until the screw driver get to the highest points and crank pully and timing mark lined up.
3. Rotate and line up the cam pullys.
That's it.

Och

iTrader: (3)

During the course of the last two days I think I've done everything possible trying to get the damb bolt out. Tried bumping it with the starter, tried 120psi compressor with 1/2 impact gun, nothing. I think I'm gonna buy the tool from Toyota designed for the removal of that bolt.

Sanpete

Not sure the tool helps remove the bolt, only the unbolted pulley. But you'll want the tool anyway. See this thread (from another forum) on some ideas about removing the bolt, and a link to a tutorial. (Try to ignore the odd side notes that come up!)

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=43090

SW07ES

The problem of all timing belt tutorials is that the people writing the tutorials don't make them idiotproof. So instead of helping people avoid trouble, they help get people into trouble.

The tutorials should say loosening the crank pulley bolt is something you should do at the start of a timing belt job, not in the middle of the job. That way the the alignment of the crank and cam pulleys is not disturbed.

The tutorials should also say the owner should paint alignment reference marks on the belt, cam and crank pulleys so if you take it off, you can reinstall it exactly where it had been. Also, by painting alignment reference marks on the old belt, you can transfer the marks to the new belt to take the guess work out of worrying about whether or not the belt is installed correctly.

ewenpg

HELP! I think I did something really stupid! I have been following the lexls tutorial but while I was trying to get the timing belt off the Left Hand Camshaft Pulley I accidently went ANTI clockwise (in the tutorial it says clockwise!) and made a few clicking sounds. Have I just thrown out the whole timing of the LH cam shaft????? Morale is low!

Lexushead

I wouldn't worry about that. Just turn it clockwise again and do the following:
Alignment:
1. Put a long screw driver or dowel in #1 cylinder.
2. Rotate the crank until the screw driver get to the highest points and crank pullys and timing marks lined up.
3. Rotate and line up the cam pullys.
That's it.

ewenpg

Do you do this with the timing belt on?
Do both rotors need to align with marks at the same time?
Does the crankshaft pulley need to be at the "0" point?
Thank you sooooo much for your help!!!!!

Och

iTrader: (3)

You dont have to do the screw driver method, and don't worry about turning it anti clockwise - I did that too, and it didn't cause any damage.

All you need to do, is align the crank with the "0" mark, and then align the cams with corresponding marks. You can do it with or without the belt, doesn't matter, as long as they are aligned. Our engines are non interference, so you can turn crank/cams one by one as many times as you like, it wont cause any damage. Now, on the VVT-i UZ engines (98+), it's a different story.

P.S.

I was able to get that damn bolt out by cranking the starter. It didnt work the first time around because my battery was drained, so I put in fresh battery from my GS, cranked the starter, and the bolt loosened right away.

Lexushead

Do you do this with the timing belt on? yes if you use long screw driver and want to make sure that #1 is at top dead center. I prefer safe than sorry method.
Do both rotors need to align with marks at the same time? cam pulleys, yes
Does the crankshaft pulley need to be at the "0" point? Yes
Thank you sooooo much for your help!!!!! No Problem.
__________________

ewenpg

Great thanks guys! Saved my life!!
I did the crank bolt, starter thing and it worked a dream!
I appreciate the help!

Och

iTrader: (3)

As long as the crank pulley is aligned with the "0" mark, cyl #1 is at TDC - no need to check it with a screw driver. You can turn the crank/cams with or without the timing belt, but if the belt is one, cams should get aligned with every other turn of the crank, so it's simpler to do it with the timing belt on.