Quote:
All you need to do, is align the crank with the "0" mark, and then align the cams with corresponding marks. You can do it with or without the belt, doesn't matter, as long as they are aligned. Our engines are non interference, so you can turn crank/cams one by one as many times as you like, it wont cause any damage. Now, on the VVT-i UZ engines (98+), it's a different story.
P.S.
I was able to get that damn bolt out by cranking the starter. It didnt work the first time around because my battery was drained, so I put in fresh battery from my GS, cranked the starter, and the bolt loosened right away.
the 95-97 are interference engines as well, how do you think toyota squeezed an extra 10ish hp and tq out of the car? they changed the head design and timing a decent bit which consequently turned it into an "interference" engine.Originally Posted by Och
You dont have to do the screw driver method, and don't worry about turning it anti clockwise - I did that too, and it didn't cause any damage.All you need to do, is align the crank with the "0" mark, and then align the cams with corresponding marks. You can do it with or without the belt, doesn't matter, as long as they are aligned. Our engines are non interference, so you can turn crank/cams one by one as many times as you like, it wont cause any damage. Now, on the VVT-i UZ engines (98+), it's a different story.
P.S.
I was able to get that damn bolt out by cranking the starter. It didnt work the first time around because my battery was drained, so I put in fresh battery from my GS, cranked the starter, and the bolt loosened right away.
Och
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Really? I though 95-97 had a different ECU and MAF, increased compression, and better exaust that allowed for the 10 hp increase. I didn't know heads were different.Originally Posted by PureDrifter
the 95-97 are interference engines as well, how do you think toyota squeezed an extra 10ish hp and tq out of the car? they changed the head design and timing a decent bit which consequently turned it into an "interference" engine.
yep, heads are different, how else do you think they increased the comp. 
95 was a complete overhaul, EVERYTHING was changed pretty much, chassis, engine, trans, etc... the only thing relatively similar is the bare block itself.
95 was a complete overhaul, EVERYTHING was changed pretty much, chassis, engine, trans, etc... the only thing relatively similar is the bare block itself.
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My bad. Then I guess the crank and cam pulleys should be turned together, when the timing belt is still on, otherwise you can cause damage.
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It's not a different MAF sensor, it's a MAP sensor instead of a MAF sensor. One of the biggest differences is the change from MPFI to SMPFI, sequential multi-port fuel injection. Also, in reference to PureDrifter's comment, I'm fairly certain the block is unchanged.Originally Posted by Och
Really? I though 95-97 had a different ECU and MAF, increased compression, and better exaust that allowed for the 10 hp increase. I didn't know heads were different.
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No, its still a MAF sensor, but its a hotwire MAF instead of Vortex AFM.Originally Posted by sonyman
It's not a different MAF sensor, it's a MAP sensor instead of a MAF sensor. One of the biggest differences is the change from MPFI to SMPFI, sequential multi-port fuel injection. Also, in reference to PureDrifter's comment, I'm fairly certain the block is unchanged.
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Ok. Thanks for the correction. Originally Posted by Och
No, its still a MAF sensor, but its a hotwire MAF instead of Vortex AFM.
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I got the car all back together and did the heart wrenching moment of starting it and.....voila! Runs a dream!!!! It is soooo nice to hear it run so smoothly and beautiful! So thank you all for your help about the cam shaft alignment!