93 LS400 Overheating at stoplights.
#1
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93 LS400 Overheating at stoplights.
Hello. I have tried to search, but couldn't find this exact problem.
I just got the car back from the shop. I had a timing belt/waterpump +all the tensioners and extras replaced at 180,000 miles.
The mechanic and I test drove the car for 20 minutes and everything was fine. I made my way to work and as soon as I stopped at the first stoplight, the car began to heat up. Normally the gauge is right at 50%, but it started escalating all the way up to around 75% (I wasn't sitting at the stoplights very long, maybe 20 seconds max). When I start driving again, the needle goes back down to normal. Stop at another stoplight and it goes back up.
I checked for leaking fluid, but don't know what else I should check for. I called the mechanic and told him right away so he told me to bring it back and he will look at it. I would like to know the problem so he won't try to get over on me. Please help and thanks in advance.
I just got the car back from the shop. I had a timing belt/waterpump +all the tensioners and extras replaced at 180,000 miles.
The mechanic and I test drove the car for 20 minutes and everything was fine. I made my way to work and as soon as I stopped at the first stoplight, the car began to heat up. Normally the gauge is right at 50%, but it started escalating all the way up to around 75% (I wasn't sitting at the stoplights very long, maybe 20 seconds max). When I start driving again, the needle goes back down to normal. Stop at another stoplight and it goes back up.
I checked for leaking fluid, but don't know what else I should check for. I called the mechanic and told him right away so he told me to bring it back and he will look at it. I would like to know the problem so he won't try to get over on me. Please help and thanks in advance.
#7
Sorry to hear about your problem. My money is on either the thermostat or the coolant not filled to the proper level. Thermostat is easy to change - get one that fails open - cost a few bucks more but worth it. Good luck bro.
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#8
my '93 was overheating, especially when idling. a car is getting less cool air when stopped. after replacing the thermo and doing a flush, another mechanic realized the front of the core was covered with a real thick "sweater" that looked like mohair! he got that out and flushed the front of the rediator. worked like a charm. the front is nearly hidden, so y9ou need to really look in there.
#9
Assuming there is no air bubble in the coolant, these are classic symptoms of a worn out fan clutch. When your car is cold, start it up with the hood up, observe the fan as the engine warms up. When it starts getting to hot, you should be able to hear the fan engage, and feel the extra airflow. If you are brave/experienced, you can use a welding glove to feel when it comes on--unless you have done this before, don't even bother finding out how.
If it doesn't engage, you need to replace the viscous coupling that connects the fan to the pulley.
If it doesn't engage, you need to replace the viscous coupling that connects the fan to the pulley.
#10
I agree with the person who said check the fan clutch the reason is when you go over 25MPH the radiator gets air passing through it and this will help keep the engine cool but when you stop if the clutch fan isn't working the car isn't getting any air across the radiator. In an emergency you can turn on the air condition that will cause the two electric fans to blow air across the radiator. If the clutch is good take the car to a radiator shop and ask them to check the radiator tubes to see if they are clear if they aren't clear (clean) have the shop pull and clean the radiator. Good Luck on this one.
#11
I'll have to disagree with this, the only thing turning the AC on will do is make the engine run hotter. Running the Compressor increases engine load, and also creates a heat sink in front of the radiator at the condenser. The fans will merely blow heat from the condenser into the radiator.
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