so iam looking at how the guys at custom auto wired my subs up and it was total wrong.they put it in a 4 ohm configuration and it is supposed to in a one ohm,so i rewired it to one ohm,and it hits so hard that the cd changer in the back skips when i turn it up.does anyone no how to fix this.thanks and it sounds really good and deep.....

 

I would start by going back there and getting my money back!!
If they did that bad a job they shouldnt be running a business.

 

You had loaaaaaaaads of real nice bass to begin with. Are you asking to how to get the CD Changer to stop skipping? or something else? Im guessing try and insulate the CD changer a bit more somehow?

 

since i rewired it to 1ohm you dont even understand it hits like 4 times harder than when you heard it,i have to get some capactiors cause i cant keep power to my amp when i stop at a stop lite...it hits hard.and the cd player skip cause i guess the bass effects it.but man its crazy.i will probley try to come down there pretty soon.just to say whats up to the guys,and see how the english is getting.talk to you later.have a good thanks giving,and tell the guys i said whats up.

 

I have a 2 farad cap I could hook you up with and for your cd player, you could try using some dynamat. Might aswell dynamat the whole trunk while your at it.

 

I Dynomated my whole trunk in my old IS300 and it worked well. Yeah...some stupid auto sound place called Z AUTO in ORANGE COUNTY, CA totally screwed up my subs ...One was 4 ohm and the Other was 2 ohm..They both eventually screwed up and I threw them away. I was wondering though...I want to install a system in my new GS and was wondering If my reasoning here is correct... (please correct me if I'm wrong and offer any suggestions, please!)...
I was thinking of getting...2 10" solo barick L7 2 ohm...
matched with a one channel class D Phoenix Gold or PPI amp capable of handling 1 ohm stable...Then I can parallel wire the 2 solo barics to run at 1 ohm...right?
Any help will be appreciated...

 

you can only wire them in the following ohms,0.5 ohms,2ohms,or eight ohms,buy an amp that is half ohm stable.but you will have to find an amp with fans in it because it will heat up.i have four tens running in a 1ohm configuration,and it hits do hard.the trunk rattles so hard.but ya go with an audobahn amp.i have there best flame seires and it works so nice,crossover built in,two built in fans with ajustable speeds,and there are meters on it telling how much current is going throgh the amp.and it has so many built in fetures.there awsome.i got mine for 150 bucks off a friend,normaly they run for around over 900 bucks..........

 

hey did the dinomatt really work,tell me what happend when you put it in(was it louder?cleaner?)is it really worth it.

 

I had audiobahn...I can't really say if it was good or bad, cuz it blew after a few months...It was an amp w/ retail of over 900$ (you know how audiobahn overprices their amps to seem expensive at first)...I got 2 for 500 and sold one for 350...anyways...it blew cuz I thought i was parallel wiring 2 4ohm subs in a mono amp for 1 ohm impedence (amp was 1 ohm stable)...After things broke I took them out the box and realized 1 L7 was 2 ohm and other was 4ohm...argg! Well...The dynomatting was an easy choice for me..I worked in ROP for a stereo shop and got each roll of dynomat (about a square yard in area) for about 14 dollars...I got like 20 rolls and filled my entire trunk (including every square inch of the wheel well and practically every surface in the trunk) along w/ the gas cap door...Hint...try using small squares for curvy or weird areas in the trunk and large ones for flat areas...The rattling was brought down to a deep thud in the trunk..It was worth it IMO...