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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:23 PM
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Question Factory Stereo Specs

I'm trying to find the specs for the factory system of a 98 GS w/NAV. Looks like a model number on the tape player door says P1711. Couldn't find anything doing a search. Can someone please help me find this info???

Thanks in advance,
Blanco
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:27 PM
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240 watts max power, 7 speakers. Fronts and rears are 4 inch, 4 ohm. Sub is 10 inch, 4 ohm. That's IF I remember this correctly.

Percy
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:37 PM
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Originally posted by Percy
240 watts max power, 7 speakers. Fronts and rears are 4 inch, 4 ohm. Sub is 10 inch, 4 ohm. That's IF I remember this correctly.

Percy
I'm looking for STN ratios, freq. response ranges, etc. Thanks anyway.
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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:52 PM
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STN ratios weren't published in the Lexus catalog. I'm pretty sure they'll claim 20-20khz for frequency response for their CD section, but it doesn't mention anything about what the FR is at the speakers. Channel sep also not listed.

Percy
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 08:14 AM
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Where are you going with this, because the published specs are often embellished to make a factory system look much better than it really is. You're unlikely to get good, actual power specs, and signal to noise will be easily equaled or exceeded by almost anything decent that you can replace it with. The system frequency response will be uneven in any factory system, unless there is EQ built into the system to compensate for the irregularities.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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Originally posted by engin_ear
Where are you going with this, because the published specs are often embellished to make a factory system look much better than it really is. You're unlikely to get good, actual power specs, and signal to noise will be easily equaled or exceeded by almost anything decent that you can replace it with. The system frequency response will be uneven in any factory system, unless there is EQ built into the system to compensate for the irregularities.
I'm trying to determine which source will give me better sound. And I'm wanting to quantify the difference, even if it's only minor to the ear. I'm going to do an install of my sat radio. Wife bought me the wireless fm kit. I'm trying to determine if it's better to go the tape player route, or stick with what I've got. I've got nav, so I'm not interested in replacing HUs.

BTW, does anyone know if there is enough free space INSIDE the rear factory spoiler for sat radio antenna?? I want to do a stealth install, and I really don't want to see a big black wart blemishing the lines of my GS, but if I have to I'll install in rear deck, but NOT OUTSIDE.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 02:10 PM
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Originally posted by Blanco
I'm trying to determine which source will give me better sound. And I'm wanting to quantify the difference, even if it's only minor to the ear. I'm going to do an install of my sat radio. Wife bought me the wireless fm kit. I'm trying to determine if it's better to go the tape player route, or stick with what I've got. I've got nav, so I'm not interested in replacing HUs.

BTW, does anyone know if there is enough free space INSIDE the rear factory spoiler for sat radio antenna?? I want to do a stealth install, and I really don't want to see a big black wart blemishing the lines of my GS, but if I have to I'll install in rear deck, but NOT OUTSIDE.
Inside the antenna would not likely provide good reception at all. 1) the antenna angle would not be correct, 2) any metallization will surely screw up reception, 3) the attenuation of the fiberglass itself would be too much. Interesting idea, though...
You'd be better off putting it inside the car on the rear deck, under the window glass. Some people get adequate reception that way, trial and error. The antenna is supposed to have a metal ground plane under it.

So you mean the kit that locally broadcasts to your FM antenna? Wasn't there a way that you could insert the FM modulator into your antenna line?
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 03:25 PM
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Originally posted by engin_ear
Inside the antenna would not likely provide good reception at all. 1) the antenna angle would not be correct, 2) any metallization will surely screw up reception, 3) the attenuation of the fiberglass itself would be too much. Interesting idea, though...
You'd be better off putting it inside the car on the rear deck, under the window glass. Some people get adequate reception that way, trial and error. The antenna is supposed to have a metal ground plane under it.

So you mean the kit that locally broadcasts to your FM antenna? Wasn't there a way that you could insert the FM modulator into your antenna line?
1) As long as the antenna lies flat how off could the angle be?? Right now it's on my roof, and the angle in the spoiler can't be much different than the roof, can it??

2) Agreed, but I've been told that it's only fiberglass, and no metal should be between it and antenna. This is the issue I'm trying to answer before starting. Don't want to head down a dead end road if you know what I mean.

3)How so??

The antenna is supposed to have a metal ground plane under it.
By design, or application?? If by application then why would Kenwood recommend installing antenna on roof of house, if roof is nothing but wood, tar & asphalt??

Appreciate your input....
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 03:49 PM
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1) As long as the antenna lies flat how off could the angle be?? Right now it's on my roof, and the angle in the spoiler can't be much different than the roof, can it??
*Can't imagine how you're fitting the mouse-like antenna flat into the GS spoiler. If it's a physically different antenna, then maybe. Maybe I'm missing something.

2) Agreed, but I've been told that it's only fiberglass, and no metal should be between it and antenna. This is the issue I'm trying to answer before starting. Don't want to head down a dead end road if you know what I mean.
*ANYTHING between your antenna and the sky will be some level of RF obstruction and will cause some loss of signal. Whether it's enough to cause signal quality problems or muting is a matter of trial and error. What I personally am concerned with in my system is that I don't compromise the recommended mounting, so that in borderline reception conditions (esp. driving under trees) I don't wind up losing the signal.

3)How so??

quote:
The antenna is supposed to have a metal ground plane under it.

By design, or application?? If by application then why would Kenwood recommend installing antenna on roof of house, if roof is nothing but wood, tar & asphalt??

*Different antenna. The car antenna and house antenna are not the same. The car application is supposed to be mounted on a 1 foot square piece of metal. You can vary this and move the antenna backwards on the roof toward the rear window glass, but this is not what the Terk specs say. It will apparently still work without the ground plane, according to some peeps that I've talked to.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 03:53 PM
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PS:
Good wife! Bought you car stuff, I'm impressed.

Jerry.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 12:23 PM
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Exclamation Woo Hoo!!!

Well I never did get the specs I was looking for, but today at lunch I went out and bought the Kenwood car kit w/the cassette adapter. I did an A/B comparison between the wireless FM and the tape deck. And.......

I was AMAZMED at how much better the tape deck method sounded!! I knew it would sound better, but not by how much. I will definitely go with the cassette route, even if it means having a small wire coming out of the tape player.

Hopefully once my custom install is finished you won't even be able to see that, but I certainly am willing to live with it if I have to. Now if I could just track down an antenna extension cord to pipe the signal into my office here at work......
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