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Machining or turning modern rotors is never needed IMO, unless the rotors have embedded material that causes high spots and and you feel pulsating when applying the brakes.
Rotor thickness on an LC is 36mm front and 30mm rear. I have not been able to determine the minimum rotor thickness, but in my ISF it was 3mm from new thickness. So, the LC would see a minimum thickness of something like 33mm and 27mm front to rear. You can measure with a long reach caliper. 12K miles is pretty early to be replacing brake components.
You have a choice of two OEM pads the lower performing, lower dusting and less noisy pad or the higher performing pads that came on your LC.
When I replace I will be replacing with these PS pads:
I'm at 24K miles with no issues thus far. If I'll need to replace my brakes (including rotors), I'm thinking of going with Lüften Brakes - one of our members had them and was satisfied. I'd probably go with 8-pot fronts and 6 or 4 - pot rears. They're also HIGHLY customizable - including the hats:
my understanding is rotors are almost NEVER 'warped' these days... they simply have uneven surface material on them causing shimmying/vibration when braking.
i must be really light on brakes though, as mine never wear out.
That’s true if you drive like a lady…..My wife never wears hers out either.....
(Not trying to be politically incorrect…No sexism intended….For entertainment purposes only)
Rotors can and still warp under certain circumstances when they are very hot then taken directly into a carwash, power washed, hosed with cold water (some are more robust than others). I always wait for mine to cool to the touch before washing any of our vehicles. Some can also warp if the lug bolts are well over-torqued.
Thanks sickpuppy. This helps a lot. I’m going to do a pad swap only and verify the rotor thickness.
I went for the Tom’s performer pads. I don’t think I’ll need new ones and neither did the dealer. I think the suggestion of machining them was just from a misinformed SA.
I know they are not warped but they produce SO much dust.
Originally Posted by sickpuppy
Machining or turning modern rotors is never needed IMO, unless the rotors have embedded material that causes high spots and and you feel pulsating when applying the brakes.
Rotor thickness on an LC is 36mm front and 30mm rear. I have not been able to determine the minimum rotor thickness, but in my ISF it was 3mm from new thickness. So, the LC would see a minimum thickness of something like 33mm and 27mm front to rear. You can measure with a long reach caliper. 12K miles is pretty early to be replacing brake components.
You have a choice of two OEM pads the lower performing, lower dusting and less noisy pad or the higher performing pads that came on your LC.
When I replace I will be replacing with these PS pads:
Thanks sickpuppy. This helps a lot. I’m going to do a pad swap only and verify the rotor thickness.
I went for the Tom’s performer pads. I don’t think I’ll need new ones and neither did the dealer. I think the suggestion of machining them was just from a misinformed SA.
I know they are not warped but they produce SO much dust.
Originally Posted by sickpuppy
Machining or turning modern rotors is never needed IMO, unless the rotors have embedded material that causes high spots and and you feel pulsating when applying the brakes.
Rotor thickness on an LC is 36mm front and 30mm rear. I have not been able to determine the minimum rotor thickness, but in my ISF it was 3mm from new thickness. So, the LC would see a minimum thickness of something like 33mm and 27mm front to rear. You can measure with a long reach caliper. 12K miles is pretty early to be replacing brake components.
You have a choice of two OEM pads the lower performing, lower dusting and less noisy pad or the higher performing pads that came on your LC.
When I replace I will be replacing with these PS pads:
I’m second owner and bought the car with 9K miles. I haven’t tracked the car but I have been lucky to enjoy some great spirited drives in the mountains.
AMG insists you must change the rotors with the pads and coming from a 700hp car it would eat rear brakes from the traction control.
That’s why I was asking if I need to change my rotors but that doesn’t seem to be the case.
Originally Posted by bitkahuna
have you been driving the car on a track? it's really hard to believe the rotors could be bad after 12kmi unless they've been tortured.
Rotors can and still warp under certain circumstances when they are very hot then taken directly into a carwash, power washed, hosed with cold water (some are more robust than others). I always wait for mine to cool to the touch before washing any of our vehicles. Some can also warp if the lug bolts are well over-torqued.
do you often do a hot lap of the nurburgring and drive immediately into a car wash?
do you often do a hot lap of the nurburgring and drive immediately into a car wash?
LOL I don't use car washes period and shudder at the thought. Have you ever checked the temps of rotors after normal stop and go, or spirited driving? The temps can get into some big #'s from near 400'F for normal everyday driving to 1000'F in track use, and a solid dose of cold water is all it can take to warp some of them.
The temps can get into some big #'s from near 400'F for normal everyday driving to 1000'F in track use, and a solid dose of cold water is all it can take to warp some of them.
it could happen but did you measure those temps on an LC? since the discs are gigantic, at 15.7" front and 14.1" rear, i would think they wouldn't get as hot as other cars with much smaller rotors?