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@Timado404 anything important to note doing front pads and/or rotors? Just the two 19mm to get the caliper off, is it? Standard caliper spreader work for the pistons?
@Timado404 anything important to note doing front pads and/or rotors? Just the two 19mm to get the caliper off, is it? Standard caliper spreader work for the pistons?
Nah, pretty straight forward. And yes, just the 2 caliper bolts...don't remember the size but that sounds close...lol. (edit: i confirmed it, 19mm is correct).
*Pro Tip* Loosen the lid on the brake fluid reservoir, under the hood. Makes it easier to push in the caliper pistons ,(brake pads), on re-installation.
If you don't have M8-1.25 x 25mm bolts to help with rotor removal, just smack on the hat of the rotor with a steel hammer and it will likely come loose.
Torque both front caliper bolts to 100 ft. lbs. (thanks to "tecman" for that info).
DO NOT forget to secure brake reservoir lid when done!!!! Put a note on your steering wheel or leave hood open. BRAKE RESERVOIR LID!!!!!!
Nah, pretty straight forward. And yes, just the 2 caliper bolts...don't remember the size but that sounds close...lol.
*Pro Tip* Loosen the lid on the brake fluid reservoir, under the hood. Makes it easier to push in the caliper pistons ,(brake pads), on re-installation.
If you don't have M8-1.25 x 25mm bolts to help with rotor removal, just smack on the hat of the rotor with a steel hammer and it will likely come loose.
Torque both front caliper bolts to 100 ft. lbs. (thanks to "tecman" for that info).
DO NOT forget to secure brake reservoir lid when done!!!! Put a note on your steering wheel or leave hood open. BRAKE RESERVOIR LID!!!!!! https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-799-06...s%2C168&sr=8-1
Forgot one other thing...give your rotors a quick wash in the sink with hot water and dish detergent, using a soft bristle brush, (brake pad area, both sides). Dry them good. I used my leaf blower.
Forgot one other thing...give your rotors a quick wash in the sink with hot water and dish detergent, using a soft bristle brush, (brake pad area, both sides). Dry them good. I used my leaf blower.
Probably only swapping pads this go around. I probably need to have the rotors machined to accept the new pads properly, so gonna pull them off and take just the rotors. Save some labor costs lol
Yeah. The pad manufacturer (carbotech) recommends a clean rotor surface when switching to their pads (race spec) from any pads from other manufacturer. But at the same time, the race pad will be so much more aggressive that there is a school of thought that says the race pad on track will pretty quickly eat away any previous pad deposit layer and then you're good to go. My only concern is hotspotting or uneven transfer of the new layer which lead to vibrations and excessive wear.
The pads will come pre-bedded from carbotech, and my existing rotors have so much life left, I don't know if I really want to just junk them. I guess I could buy a new set of rotors for the new pads and just keep stock pad + rotor combo off to the side, but I'm trying to avoid spending that money unnecessarily since our rotors are not cheap. OE rotors are $900/pair for the fronts.
Yeah. The pad manufacturer (carbotech) recommends a clean rotor surface when switching to their pads (race spec) from any pads from other manufacturer. But at the same time, the race pad will be so much more aggressive that there is a school of thought that says the race pad on track will pretty quickly eat away any previous pad deposit layer and then you're good to go. My only concern is hotspotting or uneven transfer of the new layer which lead to vibrations and excessive wear.
The pads will come pre-bedded from carbotech, and my existing rotors have so much life left, I don't know if I really want to just junk them. I guess I could buy a new set of rotors for the new pads and just keep stock pad + rotor combo off to the side, but I'm trying to avoid spending that money unnecessarily since our rotors are not cheap. OE rotors are $900/pair for the fronts.
I never turn my rotors either, but a light skim off the top certainly won't hurt anything... This is my 1st rotor change on the LC. still about 60-70% left on my Tom's brake pads. I did a quick bed in, maybe 4 or 5 stops from 60 down to 20 to transfer over a bit of material, smooth as Irish butter. 🧈 😝
$1,414.00 for the fronts at my dealer... 😮💨
Last edited by Timado404; Nov 6, 2025 at 06:34 PM.
How many miles before the brake pads need to be replaced....spirited driving around town as a daily commuter.
Just for the record I did not bed my brakes but after 13K miles I haven't heard the first squeal.
I have 15K on my LC and the pads look barely worn... it all depends on how one drives. No reason not to get 30-40K+ on a set. I have 67K on my GMC Sierra HD with original pads...and I tow a 14K trailer. My servicing dealer asked me if I ever use the brakes! lol
How many miles before the brake pads need to be replaced....spirited driving around town as a daily commuter.
Just for the record I did not bed my brakes but after 13K miles I haven't heard the first squeal.
I just changed my rears at 60k. Rotors were definitely getting lipped and I was probably about to activate the wear sensor on the pads. Previous owner changed the fronts around 40-45k I believe?
Appreciate the feedback. I will check them the next oil change....I was just curious what others had experienced. Actually my driving is not all that "spirited" and it sounds like I should get at least 30K and maybe 40K which I think is pretty damn good.
Got some squawking from my driver's side rear brakes while backing into the driveway. I suspected some glazing of the brake pads as that's usually the culprit at very slow speed, (reverse). Or stopping in your driveway, right before you go onto your street.
A nice little figure 8 pattern for about 10 seconds onto some 180 grit will usually take care of things. 👌🏾
