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Quote from their site
"Super Rigid's Chassis Enhancement Rings are specifically designed aluminum 6061 pieces that fit between the car’s subframe and chassis and prevent them from moving.
Bolt holes between the chassis and subframe are designed to be bigger than the bolt to ease production at the assembly factory. With time, the bolts loosen slightly and movement between the chassis and subframe occurs.
By centering the two parts along the bolt’s axis, Super Rigid's rings align them as per factory settings and prevent any future movement between the chassis and subframe. This results in a more precise turning, a better steering feel and an overall improved handling."
I known of the collars for a while but didn't know they were available for the ISF.
No personal experience but the attached article does talk about it with pics: http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/01/...-honda-heaven/
I had them on an Integra Type R and I'm sure they did something but it was hard to gauge since I had coilovers so it was plenty stiff already. They do what they are supposed to do in terms of filling the gaps and fitment was spot-on. I can't really see a downside other than additional NVH, although Spoon Sports claims otherwise, and since you are dropping the subframe anyway why not (be our guinea pig. Lol!). If Spoon made them for the ISF I'd pay the premium to get their machining quality compared to some knockoff but I'm picky and a bit of Spoon Sports nerd (old habits die hard)
They're essentially metal washers crushed into the frame. The claims are stiffer chassis and actually mention less nvh and more comfort in the "jounce" of the car. I'll take a look at that article.
Beans, I believe that maybe true that some scenarios may make them not very noticeable. Considering my first sentence, I may opt for the RZCrewGarage ones for about 200$ shipped full set. The spoon full sets will cost over 550$ very hard to stomach for this type of item.
Not buying it. If the collars do what they say, they could introduce impossible to correct alignment problems between the subframe and body. I don't disagree this is an issue with the factory approach, but it's not nearly what they're showing. The reason the holes are big is pretty simple - the captive nuts aren't precisely located (you can see this in the tolerances any of the body drawings show), so the subframe needs to accommodate this misalignment and they do it with larger holes. Ideally, you'd set the subframe exactly where it needs to be, on center and square with the chassis centerline, and use pins to hold the subframe in that exact position (which is sort of what these collars do). This collar system is just as flawed as the factory setup because it won't put the subframe on center and square with the chassis centerline, it will just put it where the collars end up crushing and it may make camber imbalance and left/right wheelbase difference even worse than when you started.
I've thought a lot about how to properly solve this problem mostly from all the posts about camber differences requiring subframe movement to correct, but there's no simple way to fix this. The one thing the collars would do is permanently set the subframe alignment - for better or worse - no telling which it will be until you bolt it up and tighten it down.
Good points to be made. It is very possible that some specs will be permanently off after crushing in the collars but I am hopeful they're minor enough to be dialed out, I will be reading into if anyone has complaints.