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So now that Im tracking the car whats the best alignment for the car? Im not concerned about tire wear etc. Just want this big biatch to hug the turns. lol I'm on BR coil-overs, TRD rear sway and RR steering bushings but that's it suspension wise. Thanks guys. My current "factory aliment" is chewing up the outside edges of the tires at the track.
Every car and setup is going to be a little different but if you're looking for better wear on track and more importantly better performance over the stock alignment without going nuts then I would be in the -2 to -3 range up front with zero toe to minimize the inside wear. I would also look for as much caster as possible (I don't know what your adjustment range will allow but I would be happy with anything in the 6-8* range).
I'm guessing -1.5 to -2* of camber in the rear should be just fine on the IS-F to reduce the shoulder wear on track without noticeably reducing the straight line traction.
Note that the Michelin PSS have *very* soft sidewalls compared to any of the 140-200UTQG EHP street tires or especially any of the 100UTQG entry level r-comps (r888) and so shoulder wear will seem more pronounced on those tires regardless.
-Matt M.
Last edited by SpeedFreaksUSA; Sep 22, 2016 at 09:55 AM.
I run the same rubber and it doesn't look at all like yours, for me the bigger issue are the brakes.
R888:
Temps after 20min session: Front (Out: 145, Mid: 140-145 In: 144-148) Rears: Are typically cooler all in 140 Range
Inflation Front Hot: 32-34psi Rear Hot: 34-36psi
Front Camber: -2*
Rear Camber: -2*
Looks like you need more negative camber or they maybe under-inflated.
I would hit-up Rafi, he gave me his alignment settings when I was setting up my car, the only change I did was going from -1.7* to -2* on the front and car feels fantastic.
Larry me and Jason have had a similar issue. We think it's he alignment or too little pressure in the tires . I have had mild slits but nothing like that with the ad08r. What psi are you running . Me and Jason had the most cuts when at 32
Another thing to look at is cold start pressure so if your ending up at 40-42 psi what are you starting at.
Road tyres for the most part go to mush after about 5 good laps.
I think you need to move your start pressures down in the 26-28 psi range and try and get the into that 34 psi type range it's clear 40-42 psi after watching your vid your losing a ton once there up that high.
Starting that low the car will roll around on youthe first couple of laps but by lap 2,3,4 the tyre should have come up into its best range and should'nt go away from you.Give that a go see how you go.
I think if you come off the track and have hot pressures of 34-36 with the mentioned alignment tweaks you should get the better tyre and car performance your after.
Another thing to look at is cold start pressure so if your ending up at 40-42 psi what are you starting at.
Road tyres for the most part go to mush after about 5 good laps.
I think you need to move your start pressures down in the 26-28 psi range and try and get the into that 34 psi type range it's clear 40-42 psi after watching your vid your losing a ton once there up that high.
Starting that low the car will roll around on youthe first couple of laps but by lap 2,3,4 the tyre should have come up into its best range and should'nt go away from you.Give that a go see how you go.
I think if you come off the track and have hot pressures of 34-36 with the mentioned alignment tweaks you should get the better tyre and car performance your after.
That's a good advice, but even when I had road-tire (RS-3) - Performance Summer my tires never looked like this.
That's a good advice, but even when I had road-tire (RS-3) - Performance Summer my tires never looked like this.
I can only speak as a Supra owner and the track experience I had with that car.
Started out on road rubber not knowing anything lol.I'd come off the track with tyre pressure in the mid 40s and wonder why the car felt like crap and 0 grip.It felt like the car was on skates.
Moved into the semi slick corridor the car was markedly better but and with the mentioned alignment tweaks a bit more experince and tyre pressure cold and hot adjustments probably at its quickest 1.5-2 seconds a lap over the road option which were GSD3 F-1 Goodyears great wet weather tyre by the way.
Then moved to a full race slick and then the eyes and performance of the car changed ALOT the time difference per lap was another 3 seconds quicker than semi's there was just time to be found every where.In and out of corners braking higher speed in the middle of the corner,as mentioned eye opening.
Typical cold start temps on slicks doing a 10 minute run would be 26 with the aim to finish HOT at 32-34 psi range.If they did'nt come up to 32 hot I'd adjust the cold start by a psi or 2 until I could get it to normalise at 32 Hot on a regular basis.
Larry, is your car lowered & does it have some negative camber as a result? I'm running Michelin PSS and appear to have a pretty good set-up for my car & tires at the moment.. Pic below is front tires after two track days in 90+ degree temps. They're still wearing the same after a third track day (last Friday). My tires sizes are 255/275 and I've been keeping hot tire pressures below 40 psi (38 last track day).
It looks to me like your pressure gauge isn't telling you the truth. Check it against a trust worthy one and see if it is off. The scuffing you have way down the sidewall should never be there, and the chunking you are seeing all imply pressure much lower than you are stating. I run 32 psi cold and look for 44 psi hot depending on a lot of things, but works as a general rule. If you are using dry nitrogen, those numbers are worthless as dry nitrogen doesn't vary nearly as much as ordinary compressed air with full normal humidity (the water in the air makes a huge difference). The tires are getting way too hot, and alignment might be part of the problem, but I'd start with ensuring the tools you are using to measure tire pressure are telling the truth and go from there. One easy way to do that is to buy 6 or 8 of the classic stick style gauges and go with consensus. Throw out the outliers, then compare to your current gauge. I suspect it is reading higher than it should.
Good track aligment?
