Radial Pull? Bad Alignment? Nazi Zombies?!
#1
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Radial Pull? Bad Alignment? **** Zombies?!
Hey guys,
Just got back from my second alignment. I was hoping I could post the results and the hopefully the long time GS pros would have some input on the issues I'm having. Those **** Zombies ARE killing me on Call of Duty... but that's another thread altogether.
Here is what I'm running:
-Toms Coilovers
-Daizen Bushing kit
-Daizen Swaybar bushings
-3 week old tires (Dunlop Direzza (rear) Toyo Proxe 4's (front))
Here are my issues still:
-Car pulls to the right (much more noticable at freeway speeds)
-Above 60MPH I get this intermittent shake, in a pattern. The car will shake for 2 seconds and stop for 1 second. It repeats as I drive. Very odd
Here is my last alignment spec. I would love to get some adjustable RCA and UCA's but it doesn't look too far out now... yet I still have issues.
I saw elsewhere that OEM specs were
Front
-Caster -0.8 to 0.2
-Camber 7.1 to 8.1
-Toe -.03 to 0.18
Rear
-Camber -1.3 to 0.3
-Toe -.03 to 0.17
Thoughts?
Just got back from my second alignment. I was hoping I could post the results and the hopefully the long time GS pros would have some input on the issues I'm having. Those **** Zombies ARE killing me on Call of Duty... but that's another thread altogether.
Here is what I'm running:
-Toms Coilovers
-Daizen Bushing kit
-Daizen Swaybar bushings
-3 week old tires (Dunlop Direzza (rear) Toyo Proxe 4's (front))
Here are my issues still:
-Car pulls to the right (much more noticable at freeway speeds)
-Above 60MPH I get this intermittent shake, in a pattern. The car will shake for 2 seconds and stop for 1 second. It repeats as I drive. Very odd
Here is my last alignment spec. I would love to get some adjustable RCA and UCA's but it doesn't look too far out now... yet I still have issues.
I saw elsewhere that OEM specs were
Front
-Caster -0.8 to 0.2
-Camber 7.1 to 8.1
-Toe -.03 to 0.18
Rear
-Camber -1.3 to 0.3
-Toe -.03 to 0.17
Thoughts?
Last edited by Newchapter; 06-16-10 at 10:19 AM.
#4
Lexus Champion
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I don't understand this... what do you mean directional? I didn't know wheels were directional except maybe the astetic part of it. Tires may be directional but you can still test them. Even it it's staggered, you can still test them unless it wont fit or clear fender.
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#8
Lead Lap
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As far as the vibration, it initially felt like it was in the rear. I also get a clunk on an aggressive acceleration (from a stop), so I considered rear end bushings could be a factor.
#10
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I'll do this
I did notice that one control arm had writing on it, as if it had come from a parts yard... but all of my panels still have my VIN on them. So if it WAS in an accident it had to have been something like a curb, etc. I measured my caster arm lengths (bolt to bolt) and they were identical. Last time I went in they rushed my car through and told me I had caster problems (they were a degree off). So I went back thinking they just didn't take their time. Low and behold, my caster is nearly identical now... but I drove like that on new tires for 3 weeks, so maybe I just damaged the tires.
As far as the vibration, it initially felt like it was in the rear. I also get a clunk on an aggressive acceleration (from a stop), so I considered rear end bushings could be a factor.
I did notice that one control arm had writing on it, as if it had come from a parts yard... but all of my panels still have my VIN on them. So if it WAS in an accident it had to have been something like a curb, etc. I measured my caster arm lengths (bolt to bolt) and they were identical. Last time I went in they rushed my car through and told me I had caster problems (they were a degree off). So I went back thinking they just didn't take their time. Low and behold, my caster is nearly identical now... but I drove like that on new tires for 3 weeks, so maybe I just damaged the tires.
As far as the vibration, it initially felt like it was in the rear. I also get a clunk on an aggressive acceleration (from a stop), so I considered rear end bushings could be a factor.
of course a new arm doesnt always mean past frame damage. prev owner could have hit a bug curb or hit something big enough the damage the suspension which needed to get replaced.
#11
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I would assume that all original fenders mean that there couldn't be much frame damage under them...
However, the tech said the suspension on these is similar to that of the IS300 whereas the post for the caster arm can get bent itself upon impact... can't really replace that...I think
However, the tech said the suspension on these is similar to that of the IS300 whereas the post for the caster arm can get bent itself upon impact... can't really replace that...I think
#13
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have you also checked to see if your bushings are giving out? regardless if they are daizen doesnt make them last a lifetime....
also you might want to check and see if there is anything catching in the wind.....after 40 mph air drag could play a small part in the pull....make sure all your plastic panels are acting like a huge parachute
gl
also you might want to check and see if there is anything catching in the wind.....after 40 mph air drag could play a small part in the pull....make sure all your plastic panels are acting like a huge parachute
gl