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Just did my front brakes today and had one of my wheel studs snap off while trying to tighten it with a torque wrench. Had it set a little high at 80 ft/lb, but not high enough that it should have snapped off. I will be calibrating the torque wrench just to make sure it's not really far off.
Is the process the same as replacing the rotors, but the additional steps of either using a c-clamp or hammer to remove the offending stud and to put in a new one?
Pretty sure the torque specs over here are greater than what you guys use?!?
I'll try and dig out my handbook tomorrow to confirm what we use in the UK.
Reason I mention it is I told the shop that fitted my new wheels to torque them to 76, and they refused! Chart was much higher on their wall, and they wouldn't let me drive the car away if they weren't torqued to their settings.
Just got my handbook out. It has 103NM, or 76ft Ibf.
I though 80 ft/lb was the correct torque setting for our cars
That's a little high.
Originally Posted by Vervish
Per Lobux - manual says 76 - I usually do 80.
This is correct, except I never do 80, I always do 76.
Be thankful the guy installing the engines on the last airplane you flew on did not have such a cavalier attitude toward manufacturer's torque specs. You've already got plenty of uncertainty based on thread condition, contaminants in the threads, corrosion, and the calibration of your tool. Adding an arbitrary 5% because it makes you feel good isn't exactly what I would recommend.
This is correct, except I never do 80, I always do 76.
Be thankful the guy installing the engines on the last airplane you flew on did not have such a cavalier attitude toward manufacturer's torque specs. You've already got plenty of uncertainty based on thread condition, contaminants in the threads, corrosion, and the calibration of your tool. Adding an arbitrary 5% because it makes you feel good isn't exactly what I would recommend.