Question on when to replace brake pads
A little over 25K miles on the car on the original brake pads. Don't track the car, just spirited driving once in a while.
I am hearing brake squealing from the front once in a while while braking lightly at very low speed (3 MPH or so). I tried duplicating it by braking down hard from 25 MPH or so (with windows open so I can listen good) but there is no squealing sound at all.
The question is this: Is this once in a while squealing at very low speeds the indicator for pad replacement?
I am hearing brake squealing from the front once in a while while braking lightly at very low speed (3 MPH or so). I tried duplicating it by braking down hard from 25 MPH or so (with windows open so I can listen good) but there is no squealing sound at all.
The question is this: Is this once in a while squealing at very low speeds the indicator for pad replacement?
A little over 25K miles on the car on the original brake pads. Don't track the car, just spirited driving once in a while.
I am hearing brake squealing from the front once in a while braking lightly at very low speed (3 MPH or so). I tried duplicating it by braking down hard from 25 MPH or so (with windows open so I can listen good) but there is no squealing sound at all.
The question is this: Is this once in a while squealing at very low speeds the indicator for pad replacement?
I am hearing brake squealing from the front once in a while braking lightly at very low speed (3 MPH or so). I tried duplicating it by braking down hard from 25 MPH or so (with windows open so I can listen good) but there is no squealing sound at all.
The question is this: Is this once in a while squealing at very low speeds the indicator for pad replacement?
If you're some what handy, loosen the lug nuts, jack the car up, take the wheel off, then you can use a flash light and look at the brake caliper to see the pads and how much life is left. Don't try going by noise because our pads will squeak every now and then. If you get constant squeaking, might be time to replace them, but why replace them if it's not needed?
This picture should help...You don't want the pad surface to wear down to the brake pad backing.
go to the dealer tell them your breaks are squeaky and the hand them these two TSBs. SB-0044-10 SB-0043-11. They are specifically for squeaky brake pads while breaking under low speeds. I got both my front and rear pads changed free of charge. Hope that helps
Last edited by sleepyray; Dec 16, 2012 at 11:40 AM.
Mine have the same exact problem... I have Wearever brake pads sitting in my closet, so my plan is to get all 4 OEM replaced, then have the dealer put in the Wearevers, and take off the new OEM ones and sell them.......
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I think it might depend on the dealer. If I had the money, I'd go with OEM pads and OEM rotors, but damn it's just so much more expensive....Less than $600 in parts for all 4 corners or almost $1800 in parts for all 4 corners.
You should learn to change them yourself. It's really easy.... You just need to take off the wheel, a 13mm socket wrench, and a rubber hammer and a strong small tipped driver to push the two guide pins out, remove pads, re-install. One of the easiest things you can learn to do on a car is replace the brakes, and it's something you'll be doing for the rest of your driving career.
Last edited by Just F Me; Dec 17, 2012 at 07:36 AM.
ever money? Squeaking is apart of the brakes. It's a 6-piston high performance brake system. As long as it's not screaming, personally, I'm ok with it. It's the trade off you get. I have HAWK pads in the front with CENTRIC rotors and it started to squeak every now and then. Much less squeaking before with HAWK pads and OEM rotors. The rears i have StopTech pads with OEM rotors. Ever since i switched to the Centric rotors, i can definitely feel a loss of initial bite.
TSB might be good regardless of warranty, especially since you have only 25k miles on a 2008 (i have 93k on a 2008 purchased in Sept 08).
I think it might depend on the dealer. If I had the money, I'd go with OEM pads and OEM rotors, but damn it's just so much more expensive....Less than $600 in parts for all 4 corners or almost $1800 in parts for all 4 corners.
You should learn to change them yourself. It's really easy.... You just need to take off the wheel, a 14mm socket wrench, and a rubber hammer and a strong small tipped driver to push the two guide pins out, remove pads, re-install. One of the easiest things you can learn to do on a car is replace the brakes, and it's something you'll be doing for the rest of your driving career.
TSB might be good regardless of warranty, especially since you have only 25k miles on a 2008 (i have 93k on a 2008 purchased in Sept 08).
I think it might depend on the dealer. If I had the money, I'd go with OEM pads and OEM rotors, but damn it's just so much more expensive....Less than $600 in parts for all 4 corners or almost $1800 in parts for all 4 corners.
You should learn to change them yourself. It's really easy.... You just need to take off the wheel, a 14mm socket wrench, and a rubber hammer and a strong small tipped driver to push the two guide pins out, remove pads, re-install. One of the easiest things you can learn to do on a car is replace the brakes, and it's something you'll be doing for the rest of your driving career.
If you try a 14mm wrench on the bridge bolt, you'll be unhappy. It's a 13mm bolt.
You should learn to change them yourself. It's really easy.... You just need to take off the wheel, a 13mm socket wrench, and a rubber hammer and a strong small tipped driver to push the two guide pins out, remove pads, re-install. One of the easiest things you can learn to do on a car is replace the brakes, and it's something you'll be doing for the rest of your driving career.
No problem homie. BTW...i know the pic says REMOVE THIS FIRST where the 13mm bolt is highlighted, but you don't have to. I was working on a brake pad replacement tutorial back then, got lazy, never finished it...lol
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