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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #256  
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not gonna hold my breath but if something does happen then great
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #257  
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Felt obligated to come here and let it be known that Paul @ PPE has gone above and beyond the call of customer service.

I was one of the originals to buy in on the PPE header GB. I had the steering shaft rattle issue that I dealt with. He had offered a full replacement manifold at the time, but I didn't want to pay to remove it back off and on again because it was livable.
Since then I uninstalled the headers to sell my Starfire, but would keep the headers for the incoming Obsidian. I mentioned I was ready for the driver side manifold exchange and he told me that they would just send me the entire new setup, since a few other changes had been made, including no longer needing a special dip stick tube.
I received the headers a few days ago and boxed up the old ones, you can tell the new ones are fabbed up better.

Thanks Paul & PPE! Looking forward to installing them on the Obsidian!

~Dv8
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by Dv8tion388
Felt obligated to come here and let it be known that Paul @ PPE has gone above and beyond the call of customer service.

I was one of the originals to buy in on the PPE header GB. I had the steering shaft rattle issue that I dealt with. He had offered a full replacement manifold at the time, but I didn't want to pay to remove it back off and on again because it was livable.
Since then I uninstalled the headers to sell my Starfire, but would keep the headers for the incoming Obsidian. I mentioned I was ready for the driver side manifold exchange and he told me that they would just send me the entire new setup, since a few other changes had been made, including no longer needing a special dip stick tube.
I received the headers a few days ago and boxed up the old ones, you can tell the new ones are fabbed up better.

Thanks Paul & PPE! Looking forward to installing them on the Obsidian!

~Dv8
Thats amazing to here. Im glad that the lexus community has such great companies to work with. PPE Is for sure at the top.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 02:27 PM
  #259  
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Im getting my headers installed on monday or tuesday. My car has 38000 miles on it and I want to know how likely my O2 sensors are going to get striped while taking them out. The shop is the best in the area and has a great reputation. They said they want me to bring the car in the night before so they can spray down the O2 sensors with some lubricant.

What do you all think? Will this help or is it a waste of time?

Also if they do strip one is this the correct O2 sensor to order

http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2008/5417.html

Thanks
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 06:10 PM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by Dv8tion388
Felt obligated to come here and let it be known that Paul @ PPE has gone above and beyond the call of customer service.

I was one of the originals to buy in on the PPE header GB. I had the steering shaft rattle issue that I dealt with. He had offered a full replacement manifold at the time, but I didn't want to pay to remove it back off and on again because it was livable.
Since then I uninstalled the headers to sell my Starfire, but would keep the headers for the incoming Obsidian. I mentioned I was ready for the driver side manifold exchange and he told me that they would just send me the entire new setup, since a few other changes had been made, including no longer needing a special dip stick tube.
I received the headers a few days ago and boxed up the old ones, you can tell the new ones are fabbed up better.

Thanks Paul & PPE! Looking forward to installing them on the Obsidian!

~Dv8
Thats good to know about PPE. This and reading other great threads and stories about PPE headers is what pursuaded me into going with PPE. Trustworthy company with an outstanding product!
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 09:35 PM
  #261  
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Originally Posted by zapa
Im getting my headers installed on monday or tuesday. My car has 38000 miles on it and I want to know how likely my O2 sensors are going to get striped while taking them out. The shop is the best in the area and has a great reputation. They said they want me to bring the car in the night before so they can spray down the O2 sensors with some lubricant.

What do you all think? Will this help or is it a waste of time?

Also if they do strip one is this the correct O2 sensor to order

http://is.sewellparts.com/accessorie...2008/5417.html

Thanks
That's all you can hope for.

The shop, if talented enough can do a repair job on the sensor instead of paying for new ones. Shave the threads on the o2 sensors and press on an 02 sensor bung and rethread the outside. A lathe works best.

~Dv8

Last edited by Dv8tion388; Aug 13, 2012 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #262  
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With that many miles most likely the sensors will strip. Best try would be letting the car cool down for a couple of hours (maybe that's why they want to have it overnight) and use some kind of lubricant.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #263  
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Geez, is the sensor really that bad to remove after only a couple years? I'm going to install a catback probably next weekend and never thought twice about having issues. Eek!
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by anxiouz
Geez, is the sensor really that bad to remove after only a couple years? I'm going to install a catback probably next weekend and never thought twice about having issues. Eek!
You will be fine thats different o2 sensor. The one we are referring to is an air to fuel ratio sensor that is in the header.

I pick up one extra so all they have to do is not strip one sensor.

James told me that these are compatible with the f . Walker part #250-54006 for about $103 each from Amazon.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #265  
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Ah, sorry, my bad. Thanks for clarifying.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #266  
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can anyone explain why my car was getting bogged down a lower RPMS and the i reset the ECM by pulling the two fuses and now the car does not get bogged down at the low end. I did have a code come up once P0607.

Anyone have any ideas?
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #267  
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^^^^^ Not sure if you reviewed this yet. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...c-and-cel.html
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #268  
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Originally Posted by RCB
^^^^^ Not sure if you reviewed this yet. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...c-and-cel.html
Yes i have note i have the last post on it. But i got the code one time cleared it and it has not come back again so i feel like it was a loose connection. I pushed on everything to make sure i got a good connection.

Also my a/f sensors were actually able to be unscrewed by hand. Not a chance they got striped or ruined. No leaks anywhere.

so any ideas now?
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #269  
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If you all are scared about stripping the A/F sensors then when you wake up the day you're going to drive out and have the header installed, jack up the car and loosen them yourself before you start the car. Then drive over to the shop and the installer should be able to unscrew the a/f sensor easily.

This way the sensor has better chances of being removed without being stripped.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by zapa
Yes i have note i have the last post on it. But i got the code one time cleared it and it has not come back again so i feel like it was a loose connection. I pushed on everything to make sure i got a good connection.

Also my a/f sensors were actually able to be unscrewed by hand. Not a chance they got striped or ruined. No leaks anywhere.

so any ideas now?
I did see your post after I sent you the link, sorry about that. You did not mention what you have done for diag so far.
I would:
1: Stream the A/F sensors and rear O2 sensors to check there functionality
2: Check for exhaust leaks. (Plugging the exhaust with rags and soapy rags is a decent trick to help.)
3:Inspect the PCM connectors to see if they are seated and clipped in all the way since they where most likely removed to wire the simulator.
4: Check the wire taps that where done for the O2 simulator. (I prefer solider and heat shrink and would never use the taps that came in the kit)
5: Perform a continuity test between the PCM pins and the O2 sensor side of the O2 sensor extension harnesses.
6: Make sure the extension harnesses are securely routed and tucked up away form the elements as much a possible. ( I have heat sleeves over mine to avoid rubbing and routed them up high with a few zip ties to make sure they where not going to move. On the drivers side you can follow the Trans harness)

Also if I remember right P0607 can cause the PCM to go in to limp mode. That may have caused your bogging otherwise it may have been a poor A/F reading causing a rich/lean condition.

Last edited by RCB; Sep 9, 2012 at 10:18 PM.
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