Hey all,

new to the forum, bought a 2011IS F 6 months ago and noticed ticking from headers. Upon further inspection my passenger side header is cracked.

I am curious about labor times forum members have been charged to install, or time its taken to install it yourself.

I am contemplating taking it on myself but it is pretty daunting and definitely on the edge of my mechanical capabilities.

Welcoming opinions, experiences and any other relevant information.

I would also appreciate shop recommendations from around the Colorado area

 

I was quoted 17hrs at my favorite Lexus dealer for just the header replacement almost three years ago. An independent shop charged me for 20hrs at a lower labor rate for header replacement, starter replacement, motor mount replacement, trans mount replacement, and alignment.

The more nuanced part of this service is deciding how deep to get into replacing other worn-out parts while the front sub-frame is out of the way.
Here is the parts list I worked up:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10858394

 

It is possible to install headers without a lift; I did the installation on my 2012 myself on jack stands. I did it over a period of 3 days (not continuously working from start/finish) so if I had to guess it was approximately 22-24 hours with lots of time spent crawling in/out from under the car. I chose to DIY as the Lexus dealer in my area threw out a price of $4K so I’m guessing they just didn’t want to do it. I had previously installed the R&R USRS’s prior to the headers. If you don’t already have them it’s the perfect time to do the headers, motor mounts, and USRS at the same time. I had purchased the headers and tune from R&R and the instructions supplied were very detailed.

 

Bolded for truth. Starting with a cold car, I could do this in about 6 hours (without the necessary alignment), but I've already done the starter and engine mounts on mine so I have a solid time reference and direct task experience. I also have air tools and there are a number of bolts you'll want to remove with some kind of power tool. The fun part is, you have to drop the subframe enough to get the old headers out and the new headers in. When you put it back up, you have to do some basic alignment to get the subframe as close as possible to optimum or your side to side camber will be off and your wheelbase will be off from left to right. No matter how you slice it, you'll be getting an alignment when you are done, there's no way around that.

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Mods: What's the minimum post count to send a PM to OP

 

OP...get your post count up to at least 10 so I can send you a PM about your situation

 

@ChpEng
*still getting used to formatting and replying, not super intuitive*

I appreciate the input and data points. That reference on "while you're in there" parts is hugely helpful, thank you!

So far all I have on my list is motor mounts...

 

I appreciate the input, thank you! If only a shop would come at me with a 6-8hr quote. Lowest quote I've gotten so far is 20 hours :/
I am looking into other options.

 

Judging by your username I take it we are from the same neck of the woods?

I don't want to have to spam the forum to get my post count to 10. Mods, is there a way around this requirement?

If not we may have a mutual friend with a Matador Red '10 IS F... Will try to connect through him.

 

Tackling this all in the coming month. Any suggestion on a way to simplify the alignment process of the subframe or is it pretty straight forward? Planning on an immediate alignment the week after complete so not a big issue. Just curious if you have any pointers since you have done it.

 

Take some triangular measurements before you remove the subframe, and replicate them when you put it back. Pick two reference points on the chassis, measure to two marked spots on the subframe, and adjust. If your side to side camber is not balanced, this is also an opportunity to move the subframe from side to side to get closer to a balanced position. Once you have your measurements replicated on the install, do a rough wheelbase measurement to ensure you have the same wheelbase on both sides as well. Ideal is less than 10mm or 1/4" difference side to side. Keep in mind, there is no guarantee the rear subframe is actually square with the chassis centerline or centered side to side. It can be moved too.

When I was tuning mini sprint cars, getting the axles square with the chassis and getting the centerline of the axles in the right place (for us it should be in line with the chassis centerline, for sprint cars, not so much) before doing anything else. If these measurements are not good, there's nothing but head scratching when you try to make chassis adjustments and they don't deliver what you expected.

 

A local guy to me who's installed quite a few wanted $1k to do the job on the side, he said it was about 8 hours of work for him. I decided to do it myself on jackstands which I have no regrets about. It's not a super hard job just very time consuming. I got it done over three days with a header that had fitment issues but could probably do it in one long day if I did it again. I'd highly recommend replacing stock parts while you're in there.

 

My indy shop charged me 9 hours

 

My local shop had done many other F header installs prior to mine and came recommended by another F owner. They charged me for 9 hours of labor. They installed motor mounts, new starter, and harnesses. I dropped it off in the morning and picked it up the next evening. Those 9 hours included an alignment.

Depending on your mileage. We all would recommend a new starter and motor mounts of your choice and go ahead and wrap that starter and motor mounts with heat shield.