Disclaimer: If YOU decide to touch your car based on MY directions and damage something, I am NOT liable in ANY WAY. You will get cooked in court

My reasoning for the conversion is the better look overall and having 1 single beam as opposed to 2 beams in the headlight. Its hard to deny that the 2017 front end looks miles better than the 2014 front end. Comparison Photos Here

Shoutout to Edwin 8484 from cali (3ISFsport) for the massive help and inspo but not everyone wants to cut wires on their car or struggle with the lack of space. His way is by far the best when it comes to retaining certain OEM features but mine is bare-bones and a lot easier for those who don’t mind the dash light and just want simple Low, High and Turn signal

We’ll be retrofitting a stand-alone projector into the 2017-20 IS Headlight then wiring up the basic functions to the car with our own pigtail harnesses from eBay.

This will leave behind a “check headlight system” light on the dash because the car isn’t communicating with the light anymore
I don’t really care but if that’s a deal breaker then I’ll leave a link to Edwins thread
Im working on finding a way to delete it via tech stream.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...eadlights.html

Headlight Components
-LED Headlights 2017-20 (81145-53721 and 81185-53721)
-NHK Pro Plus 2.5 Bi LED Projector. (Any 2.5/3in with 4 wires will do)
-9005/90006 CANBUS decoder
-OEM toyota 8pin (90980-10896)
-OEM toyota 6pin (81150-O6C40)
-M4 0.7 x 12mm Screws
-M4 0.7mm Hex nuts
-Variety of automotive 18-20 gauge wire
-Shrink wrap of connections
-Electrical tape
-Butyl sealant

Tools
-Heat Gun
-Scissors
-Needle nose pliers
-Aviation snips
-Philips/Flathead screw driver
-JB weld
-Wire strippers
-Drill & drill bits (1/8, 11/64)
-Soldering Iron and soldering wire
-Power supply (optional but I like to test as I go)

Steps:
1). Unscrew the bolts and use a heat gun to heat up the perimeter of the headlight. After a couple of go-arounds it should start to loosen up and the lease will come off with the prying.


2.) Use a flathead and continue to flatten out that sealant to create an even channel for later.


3.) Clear out all unnecessary harnesses and unscrew the original projector. Take out the amber turn ignal bulb and but the wirs long. We will need some of the wires for later but most importantly we need that metal plate.

4.) Drill out the riveted excess stuff on the metal plate until it looks like this. Use a marker to identify where you need to cut with the aviation snips


5.) Cut out the pattern into the plate with the aviation snips and screw your “adapter plate” back on to the housing. Slide the projector in to the plate then use the the hex nuts and bolts to fasten the projector onto the “adapter plate” it’ll help if you use the pliers to hold the nut. if you would like extra protection on the top you can add a zip tie or screw on clamp.




5.5.) If you have a power supply you can test them. Red is power and Black is ground.



6.) Run 4 wires into the headlight housing through the hold that’s under the projector. Your gonna need to solder these to the 4 wires on the projector and cover them up with shrink wrap



7.) Cut the 9006 connector from the CANBUS decoder (to stop flickering and smooth pulses) and leave some wire on the end. You’re gonna solder these wires up to the wires you soldered to the projector. Make are that the red and black matches the red and black on the 9006 connector. This will be your low beam function. The other 2 left hanging are your high beam function which does not need a CANBUS decoder.


8). Now you have 4 wires with a CANBUS on the 2 low beam wires. It’s now time to connect these to your 8 pin connector for low and high beam . RED + BLACK - for low beam. WHITE+ BLUE- for high beam

9.) Solder the 4 low and high beam wires to the appropriate spots on the 8 pin connector. Im gonna recycle Edwins diagrams. Remember that your harness is a mirror of the ones in the picture.




10.) You’re gonna grab your amber turn signal light and harness that was cut and wire solder the wires on that to the appropriate spots on the 6 pin harness.





( sorry my wires were so long)

11.) Theres a circle part that goes around the projector that used to fit on the old projector. You’re gonna have to JB weld it to the inside of the headlight on the lens side. Just use tape to line things up and test fit it before you weld. After letting the jb dry for 24-48 hours you should be good.

( if you want, you can run those parking lights into the 8 pin harness but i didn't see the point of then so i left it )

12.) For resealing you’re going to use the butyl along with whatever heating method is available. I used the heat gun which took long and isn't as reliable but an oven is a better option. Just watch a YouTube video on it. Once everything been sealed back up you are free to test on your car.



Ill keep you guys updated on on getting rid of the dash light or any steps i forgot.
Once again shoutout to Edwin for the overall help but theres more than one way to skin a cat.

 

Read your thread with interest, but I was wondering what problem you were trying to solve. Are you showing a conversion from single beam HID headlights to single projector LED headlights?
If so, the topic is not relevant to owners that already have the dual projector LED headlights, correct?

 

I have a 2014 is350 and am trying to add on 2017 headlights for the difference in shape and better design. The wiring is different so people run into issues

 

Ok, got it.