I have the OEM 19" ISF wheels on my 2006 RWD IS250. The wheel design looks like the picture below. After installing it, I find that wheels (specially the rear wheels) are a bit sunken in. I guess this is because of the rear offset of 55. I calculated that to get it close enough to the fender I need at least 25mm spacers at the rear. Anything more than 25mm I would be a bit worried to run that much spacing​​​​​​​. And on the fronts I haven't calculated but i've heard people sug​​​​​​​gest 15mm at the f​​​​​​​ront will be good.

So, i've been looking at spacers (hub-centric ones) and i've decided to go for the Eibach Pro-Spacers. I've used this particular brand on another car in the past and the quality seems really good. Just wanted help selecting the correct products by Eibach. from what i've found, it seems I need the f​​​​​​​ollowing two product numbers:

S90-4-15-009 - 15mm spacer with pressed studs
S90-4-25-029 - 25mm spacer with pressed studs

They do the 15mm in a version that requires the orig​​​​​​​inal studs to be replaced with longer studs, but I prefer pressed in option. However, the thing I am not sure about is that the excess stud length that is remaining sticking out, do I need to cut that? On the 15mm spacer I would think the studs will stick out 10mm more than they would with the 25mm spacers at the rear. The question is how much will it stick out and do the wheels have cut-outs to allow for this excess to g​​​​​​​o into?

 

To fit 15mm bolt-on spacers the wheel pockets have to be at least 12mm deep, so measure those first. If they're deeper than that you're fine. If they're less than 12mm you have 2 options, trim the studs or drill deeper pockets in the wheels. I prefer drilling method over cutting studs.
You don't need to do anything to fit 25mm bolt-on spacers as the stock studs are 25mm long and don't stick out past the surface of the spacer.
Good luck

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...n-spacers.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...d-h-and-r.html

 

what are the wheel pockets? Are they the little holes next to the lug nut holes on the rear? What are these pockets on the wheels actually for?

 

Also, how do you hold the hub from spinning when torquing a bolt on spacer? The rears I take it the mechanical parking brake will work? What about the front?

 

Judging by the video those wheels have deep enough holes/pockets on the back to accommodate the factory studs. I assume those are for weight reduction but it also might have something to do with the casting process how the wheels are flow formed and handled by robots in the factory.
To stop the front hub from spinning I put a baseball bat or snow brush against the brake pedal and front seat then move the front seat until the brake is applied. I use a towel or something to prevent damage to the seat. It works great, lol
Clean the hubs with wire brush/sand paper and apply a bit of anti seize

 

I messaged an eBay seller selling used isf wheels like mine to ask if he can measure the depth of those pockets/holes. He said they are approximately 22 to 25mm deep. So, even if he’s measurements are not so accurate and if he was to make a over estimate measurement, I would think it should still fall way above the 12mm I need for a 15mm spacer right?

 

You are correct sir.
Once you install 15 mm spacer, the stock studs will stick out another 10 mm. Since the holes/pockets in ISF wheels are 22 mm deep, the studs will fit into the holes without a doubt.

 

I torque the spacer to the hub at 104nm then the wheels to the spacer at the same torque right? How many times does it have to be removed for re-torquing?

 

The "experts" say between 50~150 km wheels (spacers) should be re-torqued.
I've learned after years of using them that spacers once torqued to specs almost never need to be re-torqued.

 

I got the spacers. Need to find some time to install them. Just checking them out when I stack the two spacers on top of each other there is an ever so slight movement. Almost like there is a milimimeter or so gap around the hub centric ring where it’s sitting on the hub centric part of the other spacer. But then I tested it on a spare 17” oem wheel I have where I put one of the spacers on the wheel itself and it’s perfectly snug and no movement. Not sure is it’s supposed to have slight play when stacking one spacer on top of another ? It sits flush and the paper test is tight

 

I got the same spacers, they fit perfectly snug on wheels. No worries, after all they're German made

 

Do you use anti-seize on the surface of the hub where it mates with the spacer? I take it it’s not needed between the wheel and the spacer ? What kind of anti-seize? I have copper grease antiseize available.

No threadlockers needed for the lug nuts holding the spacer on to the hub right?

 

should I torque the spacer to 103nm (76 ft/lb) and then the wheel to the spacer at also same torque? Been reading lots of mixed things where some people suggest torquing spacer to different amount than torquing wheel to spacer.

 

I've always done same torque 76 ft/lb for spacers and wheels.
I apply little bit anti-seize on the back of the wheel incl. bore and a bit on hub. It helps to remove them when I switch to winter wheels.

 

i'm on stock oem springs on my 2006 RWD 250. So with the spacers i think they will stick out perfectly. However, it may end up looking a bit high with the OEM springs. Eibach do lowering springs, but there doesn't seem like there are sizes. Is it just one standard size E10-82-009-05-22 ? Does anyone know how much these lower the oem height by? and seeing as this will make car sit much lower, does that mean if the car is full of passengers it will go even lower than it was with OEM?