Wheel Spacers - Eibach and H&R
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Wheel Spacers - Eibach and H&R
For those interested in getting their stance wider here's a list of most popular wheel spacers by Eibach and H&R
Eibach Pro
Center bore 60.1mm, Stud thread M12x1.5 bolt pattern 5x114.3
S90-4-15-009 - 30mm axle (15mm per wheel) pressed in studs
S90-6-15-034 or 90.6.15.034.1 30mm axle (15mm per wheel) require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones
S90-4-20-013 or 90.4.20.013.1 40mm axle (20mm per wheel) pressed in studs
S90-6-20-031 - 40mm axle (20mm per wheel) require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones
S90-4-25-029 or 90.4.25.029.1 50mm axle (25mm per wheel) pressed in studs
S90-4-30-016 or 90.4.30.016.1 60mm axle (30mm per wheel) pressed in studs
H&R TRAK DRM Spacers
Center bore 60.1mm, Stud thread M12x1.5 bolt pattern 5x114.3
3065602 - 30mm axle (15mm per wheel( pressed in studs
4065601 - 40mm axle (20mm per wheel) pressed in studs
5065601 - 50mm axle (25mm per wheel) pressed in studs
6065601 - 60mm axle (30mm per wheel) pressed in studs
7065601 - 70mm axle (35mm per wheel) pressed in studs
8065601 - 80mm axle (40mm per wheel) pressed in studs
9065601 - 90mm axle (45mm per wheel) pressed in studs
Eibach Pro
Center bore 60.1mm, Stud thread M12x1.5 bolt pattern 5x114.3
S90-4-15-009 - 30mm axle (15mm per wheel) pressed in studs
S90-6-15-034 or 90.6.15.034.1 30mm axle (15mm per wheel) require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones
S90-4-20-013 or 90.4.20.013.1 40mm axle (20mm per wheel) pressed in studs
S90-6-20-031 - 40mm axle (20mm per wheel) require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones
S90-4-25-029 or 90.4.25.029.1 50mm axle (25mm per wheel) pressed in studs
S90-4-30-016 or 90.4.30.016.1 60mm axle (30mm per wheel) pressed in studs
H&R TRAK DRM Spacers
Center bore 60.1mm, Stud thread M12x1.5 bolt pattern 5x114.3
3065602 - 30mm axle (15mm per wheel( pressed in studs
4065601 - 40mm axle (20mm per wheel) pressed in studs
5065601 - 50mm axle (25mm per wheel) pressed in studs
6065601 - 60mm axle (30mm per wheel) pressed in studs
7065601 - 70mm axle (35mm per wheel) pressed in studs
8065601 - 80mm axle (40mm per wheel) pressed in studs
9065601 - 90mm axle (45mm per wheel) pressed in studs
Last edited by primavera; 01-14-21 at 09:51 PM.
#3
so, as we were discussing on another thread, you would NOT recommend the Ichiba V1 or V2's? obviously not German, but they seem like a more popular spacer company. will do my fronts w/ 10mm. was going to get another set of ichibas, but I could go HR
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
On few occasions when I removed them for winter season, the spacers would come off easily but the centering rings would get stuck on a hub. That's the only part I wasn't too happy about, other than that they worked fine with no issues. If I could give you advise, make sure your hubs are very clean (use wire brush, sand paper to clean any rust and apply anti-seize) use torque specs recommended by producer (never use impact gun!!) and you won't have problems with spacers.
Last edited by primavera; 05-03-18 at 06:27 PM.
#5
As I mentioned before I've never had a problems with Ichiba V2. My only "complaint" with them was that the centering rings were separate pieces from the spacers as opposed to one piece (see picture below).
On few occasions when I removed them for winter season, the spacers would come off easily but the centering rings would get stuck on a hub. That's the only part I wasn't too happy about, other than that they worked fine with no issues. If I could give you advise, make sure your hubs are very clean (use wire brush to clean any rust and apply some anti-seize) use torque specs recommended by producer (never use impact gun!!) and you won't have problems using them.
On few occasions when I removed them for winter season, the spacers would come off easily but the centering rings would get stuck on a hub. That's the only part I wasn't too happy about, other than that they worked fine with no issues. If I could give you advise, make sure your hubs are very clean (use wire brush to clean any rust and apply some anti-seize) use torque specs recommended by producer (never use impact gun!!) and you won't have problems using them.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
I suggest you buy new 25mm spacers with pressed in studs for the rear and 15mm for the front. You will save time, money, stress, broken parts, and the need of buying new tools and new parts. Get bolt-on spacers with pressed in studs, install all four in half an hour then take your girlfriend out to dinner.
You can thank me later
You can thank me later
Last edited by primavera; 05-03-18 at 06:29 PM.
#7
I suggest you buy new 25mm spacers with pressed in studs for the rear and 15mm for the front. You will save yourself time, money, stress, broken parts, and the need for buying new tools and new parts. Get slip on spacers with pressed in studs, install all 4 in half an hour then take your girlfriend out to dinner.
You can thank me later
You can thank me later
well i know where to find the spacers, now just gotta find the girlfriend... 😅 thanks for the input man, think i'll do exactly that: 15 & 25. 15 would make the fronts look meaty as hell. like i said, doing spacers in lieu of gettin aftermarket (larger) wheels. comin from the 15" base wheels on my old volvo, the stock 17s on my 250awd will do for now. i really like the outcome, even just with the 20mm on rears. thanks again for your help!!
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#8
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Thread Starter
This is 15mm front and 25mm on the back with the stock wheels. Somebody posted these a while back and imo that stance looks great.
I might actually do the same thing.
Huge props to the owner of this car
I might actually do the same thing.
Huge props to the owner of this car
Last edited by primavera; 05-03-18 at 06:34 PM.
#10
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Thread Starter
Front 18x8 ET45 + 15mm spacer = ET30
Rear 18x8.5 ET50 + 25mm spacer = ET25
Last edited by primavera; 05-07-20 at 09:59 PM.
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MikeFig82 (06-19-23)
#11
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iTrader: (1)
While I do feel that getting spacers for stock wheels makes sense, or purchasing spacers for a used set of wheels..
Part of me feels that spacers are just a make-up add on for the wrong offset on your wheels. When I bought my wheels i bought the offset that would give me the look i wanted.. not buying the wrong offset and then adding spacers.. just my .02
In other words.. do your research and buy the correct offset wheels for your desired look
Part of me feels that spacers are just a make-up add on for the wrong offset on your wheels. When I bought my wheels i bought the offset that would give me the look i wanted.. not buying the wrong offset and then adding spacers.. just my .02
In other words.. do your research and buy the correct offset wheels for your desired look
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here's a quick comparison between Eibach and Ichiba. Notice the nuts mounting the spacer to the hub, you can see the vast difference between the two seemingly same products. Eibach's nuts are twice the size of Ichiba's, these fasten your spacers to the car. In addition Eibach is grade 10.9 hardened solid steel. This means the studs are graded 2 times HIGHER than the requirement set by the Department of Transportation!
Last edited by primavera; 05-07-19 at 12:22 PM.
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MikeFig82 (06-19-23)
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