no crank
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Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 180
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From: Delaware
Ham, I just watched your video and your car is doing what mine was doing as far as the start sequence. The amber light at the start button after the self-test means the car has failed the test. At this point you need to get the key fob working in order to eliminate the Immobilizer system as being the source of your no-crank condition. I too had the ABS amber and a few other amber lights on but don't worry about that for now as that's normal for an Immobilizer inhibited start.
Once my fob was working again I would get a green light at the end of the self test but the car still would not crank and that's because the fuel pressure solenoid failure had isolated the ECU which is why I had said earlier that the way Toyota/Lexus designed the start system is funky but I'm starting to digress.... For now, let's concentrate on getting the fob remarried to the car so you get a green light on the start button after the needle sweep which is part of the self-test. Hope that makes sense....
Your symptoms so far are identical to what my car was doing. Absolutely make sure the car battery is good and remove it if you have to in order to properly get it load tested. While the battery is out, to the left of the battery towards the fender, check the battery ground. Just follow the black battery ground cable down to where it's bolted to the car and make sure you have a good ground. Bad grounds are sometimes the source of electrical issues. Then, there are four fuse boxes on the car. Three under the hood, in front of the battery, and two on the driver's side. One of the driver's side fuse boxes requires a 10mm socket in order to remove the lid. There's also a fuse box under the driver's side knee panel. Take a look at the inside covers of the fuse boxes for fuse information and carefully check any engine control type fuse such as "ign 1, f pmp", etc. Sorry, if you've already done all this but I don't want to assume......
Once my fob was working again I would get a green light at the end of the self test but the car still would not crank and that's because the fuel pressure solenoid failure had isolated the ECU which is why I had said earlier that the way Toyota/Lexus designed the start system is funky but I'm starting to digress.... For now, let's concentrate on getting the fob remarried to the car so you get a green light on the start button after the needle sweep which is part of the self-test. Hope that makes sense....
Your symptoms so far are identical to what my car was doing. Absolutely make sure the car battery is good and remove it if you have to in order to properly get it load tested. While the battery is out, to the left of the battery towards the fender, check the battery ground. Just follow the black battery ground cable down to where it's bolted to the car and make sure you have a good ground. Bad grounds are sometimes the source of electrical issues. Then, there are four fuse boxes on the car. Three under the hood, in front of the battery, and two on the driver's side. One of the driver's side fuse boxes requires a 10mm socket in order to remove the lid. There's also a fuse box under the driver's side knee panel. Take a look at the inside covers of the fuse boxes for fuse information and carefully check any engine control type fuse such as "ign 1, f pmp", etc. Sorry, if you've already done all this but I don't want to assume......
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0705_lexus.html
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 6
From: Texas
Awesome news this morning ! From here this should be straightforward but first make sure you check all fuses and electrical connectors. If you're lucky all you'll have is a blown fuse somewhere or maybe a disconnected electrical connector. The thought occurred to me that the engine covers may still be in place, if so, you'll need to remove them in order to access the other two engine bay fuse boxes. Also don't forget the fusebox inside the car that's located next to your OBD port and there's another interior fuse box on passenger side of car that I forgot about last night and I think your door lock fuse is located there.
The other two engine bay fuse boxes are located under the driver's side cover that's right behind the windshield fluid reservoir. While you have the covers off, carefully trace all your wire looms to their connections at the various sensors and sure they're all connected and you don't have any damaged wires. Make sure you check the fuses in the fuse boxes paying particular attention to any fuse that corresponds to any circuit involving OBD codes you're now reading or circuits that are not working.
I did a real quick Youtube search and here's a video that may help you with the blower motor and radio. At a minimum you'll see the location of the two engine bay fuse boxes and driver's side fuse box where a critical fuse for the radio and climate control system is located.
Hopefully all your issue is a blown fuse. The accident may have shorted a wire run somewhere so pay particular attention to wire looms and grounds in areas damaged by the accident. Since you don't really know the history of the car, there's a possibility the car was jumped and the polarity was reversed which can cause blown fuses and such so if you find a blown fuse and the fuse doesn't blow again upon replacement, clear any OBD codes and drive the car. Congratulations on the progress you've made so far and I hope this car works out for you. These cars are really well engineered and very well made so once you've resolved the issue you'll probably have lots and lots of trouble free and very comfortable miles !
BTW, I'll be traveling today and won't have internet access till later on this evening but let us know how it goes. .
The other two engine bay fuse boxes are located under the driver's side cover that's right behind the windshield fluid reservoir. While you have the covers off, carefully trace all your wire looms to their connections at the various sensors and sure they're all connected and you don't have any damaged wires. Make sure you check the fuses in the fuse boxes paying particular attention to any fuse that corresponds to any circuit involving OBD codes you're now reading or circuits that are not working.
I did a real quick Youtube search and here's a video that may help you with the blower motor and radio. At a minimum you'll see the location of the two engine bay fuse boxes and driver's side fuse box where a critical fuse for the radio and climate control system is located.
Hopefully all your issue is a blown fuse. The accident may have shorted a wire run somewhere so pay particular attention to wire looms and grounds in areas damaged by the accident. Since you don't really know the history of the car, there's a possibility the car was jumped and the polarity was reversed which can cause blown fuses and such so if you find a blown fuse and the fuse doesn't blow again upon replacement, clear any OBD codes and drive the car. Congratulations on the progress you've made so far and I hope this car works out for you. These cars are really well engineered and very well made so once you've resolved the issue you'll probably have lots and lots of trouble free and very comfortable miles !
BTW, I'll be traveling today and won't have internet access till later on this evening but let us know how it goes. .
Last edited by aabikrman; Nov 24, 2020 at 06:06 AM.
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Delaware
Awesome news this morning ! From here this should be straightforward but first make sure you check all fuses and electrical connectors. If you're lucky all you'll have is a blown fuse somewhere or maybe a disconnected electrical connector. The thought occurred to me that the engine covers may still be in place, if so, you'll need to remove them in order to access the other two engine bay fuse boxes. Also don't forget the fusebox inside the car that's located next to your OBD port.
The other two engine bay fuse boxes are located under the driver's side cover that's right behind the windshield fluid reservoir. While you have the covers off, carefully trace all your wire looms to their connections at the various sensors and mahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZa3ZDMFs1U&t=19ske sure they're all connected and you don't have any damaged wires. Make sure you check the fuses in the fuse boxes paying particular attention to any fuse labeled that corresponds to any circuit involving OBD codes you're now reading.
Hopefully all your issue is a blown fuse. Since you don't really know the history of the car, there's a possibility the car was jumped and the polarity was reversed which will can cause blown fuses and such so if you find a blown fuse and the fuse doesn't blow again upon replacement, clear any OBD codes and drive the car. Congratulations and I hope this car works out for you. These cars are really well engineered and very well made so once you've resolved the issue you'll probably have lots and lots of trouble free and very comfortable miles !
I did a real quick Youtube search and here's a video that may help you with the blower motor and radio. At a minimum you'll see the location of the two engine bay fuse boxes and driver's side fuse box where a critical fuse for the radio and climate control system is located. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZa3ZDMFs1U&t=19s
BTW, I'll be traveling today and won't have internet access till later on this evening but let us know how it goes. .
The other two engine bay fuse boxes are located under the driver's side cover that's right behind the windshield fluid reservoir. While you have the covers off, carefully trace all your wire looms to their connections at the various sensors and mahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZa3ZDMFs1U&t=19ske sure they're all connected and you don't have any damaged wires. Make sure you check the fuses in the fuse boxes paying particular attention to any fuse labeled that corresponds to any circuit involving OBD codes you're now reading.
Hopefully all your issue is a blown fuse. Since you don't really know the history of the car, there's a possibility the car was jumped and the polarity was reversed which will can cause blown fuses and such so if you find a blown fuse and the fuse doesn't blow again upon replacement, clear any OBD codes and drive the car. Congratulations and I hope this car works out for you. These cars are really well engineered and very well made so once you've resolved the issue you'll probably have lots and lots of trouble free and very comfortable miles !
I did a real quick Youtube search and here's a video that may help you with the blower motor and radio. At a minimum you'll see the location of the two engine bay fuse boxes and driver's side fuse box where a critical fuse for the radio and climate control system is located. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZa3ZDMFs1U&t=19s
BTW, I'll be traveling today and won't have internet access till later on this evening but let us know how it goes. .
Ham, the car has no fluid pump as it's electric assist. The most common fuse blown is the 80AMP EPS fuse for the power steering which is blown by reverse polarity while jumping or during battery installation.
As for the windows, go to each door, power the window down fully and hold it about 1 second. Let off switch. Power the window up fully and hold it about 1 second. Do all three windows.
As for the windows, go to each door, power the window down fully and hold it about 1 second. Let off switch. Power the window up fully and hold it about 1 second. Do all three windows.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 18
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From: Texas
Good morning Ham, I would happily friend you but I'm no longer on FB or any social media. My identity got stolen a few years ago and I was advised to close soc media accounts but feel free to message me anytime through this site. Did you determine where the fluid was coming from ?
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 180
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From: Delaware
Good morning Ham, I would happily friend you but I'm no longer on FB or any social media. My identity got stolen a few years ago and I was advised to close soc media accounts but feel free to message me anytime through this site. Did you determine where the fluid was coming from ?
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 18
Likes: 6
From: Texas
Sorry to learn about the new difficulties..... I've had great luck with JB Weld but I'd be hesitant about using it in such a critical place as an oil pan or reservoir involving a critical system. You might be able to get it welded but that might cost more than just getting a new one. Oil pans are generally pretty inexpensive. The rack I'm not so sure, about but the fact these cars have an electrically operated steering system the rack is probably non-serviceable in the field and probably needs to be replaced... Sorry but might have to bite the bullet on that one....
Thread Starter
Pit Crew
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Delaware
Sorry to learn about the new difficulties..... I've had great luck with JB Weld but I'd be hesitant about using it in such a critical place as an oil pan or reservoir involving a critical system. You might be able to get it welded but that might cost more than just getting a new one. Oil pans are generally pretty inexpensive. The rack I'm not so sure, about but the fact these cars have an electrically operated steering system the rack is probably non-serviceable in the field and probably needs to be replaced... Sorry but might have to bite the bullet on that one....
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