If you can't get the car to recognize the key fobs I would guess the keys were not married to the car anyhow but I would then try the ECU reset procedure like this :
There are other videos that demonstrate the same ECU reset procedure but I'd only perform this reset procedure if the other procedure I sent you didn't work. The procedure I posted in the previous post may take several tries so don't give up. Make sure that trunk, hood and all doors are closed before you begin the procedure that utilizes the manual key that I posted above. Read the procedure I posted carefully before

Believe me, I know how you feel because I was in a very similar no-crank situation and to really top it off, my car was at my vacation home 240 miles from the nearest Lexus dealer and on top of that, the car was partially blocking my gravel driveway at the top of the hill where the house is located and with very limited maneuvering room to even get at the car with a wrecker or roll-off. Any wrecker, etc would have had to back up the 1/4 mile long sweeping and exposed driveway ! I knew that at a minimum, I was looking at a very expensive tow and that I'd probably have trouble even getting a wrecker service to attempt loading or towing the car because of where the car had died and the lack of maneuvering room. I spent two days of messing with the car or trying to get information including talking to mechanics that work at a very reputable shop that specializes in Lexus/Toyota. One of them is the one that told about the manual key reset procedure but that only got me half way there to getting the car to run.

Anyhow, I'll keep an eye on this thread and help you out as much as I can. Hang in there, don't throw in the towel just yet !

 

thank you i'll try this if no luck i'm sure my guy can get me going

 

I wanna say the paper clip key fob program was unsuccessful. I'm gonna try it again. I noticed the when i press the door lock button as mentioned before it does nothing but the light on the mirrors do light up as if the door was opened or closed. i'll try the paper clip jumper 1 more time then its getting towed to a shop. I just hope they can fix it and if so it doesn't cost me a arm and a leg.

 

Did you first try the manual lock reset procedure ?: Replace the battery or check with a voltmeter the condition of the fob battery. Make sure battery in the fob is good. Remove the cover hiding the manual door lock that is behind the driver's door handle, then, lock and close all the doors and don't forget the hood and trunk. Next, manually unlock but do not open, and then lock the driver's door with the key (only the driver's door has the manual lock) and leave the car alone for at least 5 minutes. Then after a minimum of 5 minutes of not disturbing the car or fob in any way, press unlock on the key fob but don't open the door. Then, using the key, lock then unlock the door 4 times. Enter the car, close the door and attempt start with the fob against the start button.

It took me several tries to get this procedure to work and I knew that it worked when I finally got a proper pre-start check that the car performs prior to every start. The start button will go green, you'll get a quick check of warning lights which quickly extinguish, a quick needle sweep, and then the car should turn over and car hopefully will start. This is what resolved my Immobilzer system where I then had good communication between the key fob and the car.

Let me know if you get control of the door locks with the key fob and we'll proceed to the next step... Please try the above procedure even though you tried the paperclip reset....You may need to do this more than once.

 

Yes i did try the manual way first...the key fob does not open the door when i push the unlock button.

 

I'll post a video

 

I suspect the fob you have is not original to the car but make sure you try the manual lock reset procedure several times if it doesn't work.

I also left my fob in the car overnight before the procedure worked for me and it took me 3 or maybe 4 attempts. I say maybe because one of the attempts I failed to latch the hood and supposedly that may prevent a reset so I don't really count that attempt. It's supposedly important to get all the steps in the procedure correct as written. I have never been a fan of electronics that have the potential to disable one's car due to failures in the security/Immobilizer system. I once had on '04 SVT Mustang that used a transponder key as a security system and it left me stranded once. Never did completely figure that one out because the same key seemed just fine once the car "woke" back up but I never trusted that key again. Anyhow, I'm digressing, sorry !

In my IS 350's case, it was apparently a low voltage condition that resulted in the car's ECU getting confused and not being able to communicate with the keys. At least in my case I knew that both of my keys had never given me the least bit of trouble so it was a matter of re-synchronizing/re-setting the Immobilizer system. I did put brand new batteries in my fobs even though the voltage was good with the batteries in the fobs. You might try leaving the fob in the car overnight and then performing the procedure first thing in the morning or when you're able....

 

This is the key I have

 

 

i've checked fuses . i find that the radio fuse keeps blowing, A few other fuses were blown that i replaced. Is there a fusible link or something like that to check. Wasn't flooded or stolen. But was in a small frontal collision that caused airbags to deploy. But i have replaced them. Only thing i have to replace now is the front bumper cover. But if i cant get it started. I'll have to part it out to get most if not all of my money back.

 

The fusible link is in the fuse box located in front of the battery. It's under a clear plastic cover. If you look carefully at the ends you'll notice the shiny metal part has a relatively fine metal "bridge" that connects to the shiny metal plate. If the link is blown that's where you'll see it. It basically works the same as the other fuses in the car, it's the finer gauge part of the metal that burns through. Here's a link that may help; https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#&gid=1&pid=1

 

Ham, I just watched your video and your car is doing what mine was doing as far as the start sequence. The amber light at the start button after the self-test means the car has failed the test. At this point you need to get the key fob working in order to eliminate the Immobilizer system as being the source of your no-crank condition. I too had the ABS amber and a few other amber lights on but don't worry about that for now as that's normal for an Immobilizer inhibited start.

Once my fob was working again I would get a green light at the end of the self test but the car still would not crank and that's because the fuel pressure solenoid failure had isolated the ECU which is why I had said earlier that the way Toyota/Lexus designed the start system is funky but I'm starting to digress.... For now, let's concentrate on getting the fob remarried to the car so you get a green light on the start button after the needle sweep which is part of the self-test. Hope that makes sense....

Your symptoms so far are identical to what my car was doing. Absolutely make sure the car battery is good and remove it if you have to in order to properly get it load tested. While the battery is out, to the left of the battery towards the fender, check the battery ground. Just follow the black battery ground cable down to where it's bolted to the car and make sure you have a good ground. Bad grounds are sometimes the source of electrical issues. Then, there are four fuse boxes on the car. Three under the hood, in front of the battery, and two on the driver's side. One of the driver's side fuse boxes requires a 10mm socket in order to remove the lid. There's also a fuse box under the driver's side knee panel. Take a look at the inside covers of the fuse boxes for fuse information and carefully check any engine control type fuse such as "ign 1, f pmp", etc. Sorry, if you've already done all this but I don't want to assume......

 

I just did a quick Youtube search and here's a video that at least shows the location of the fusible link. I didn't watch the whole thing so I don't know if he shows the part of the link that fails thus shorting the link but again, If you look carefully, you'll see the metal plate that is the link and at the end of it, there's a thin metal bridge that is designed to melt if the electrical system is subjected to a fault such as reverse polarity or too many amps, etc....


Here's another video that explains how to remove the link. Even though this one is a GS, I can pretty much tell you the process will be very similar to an IS. These cars share a lot of the same parts and methods of securing components in the engine bay.

 

ok I only Found the 1 fuse panel under the drivers side i have to check the one that requires a 10mm socket in order to remove. But it does make since the more and more i read through your post. Fusible link doesn't look blown ( all burnt up) i will check the ground tomorrow. Also the battery is fresh( purchased today). Thank you for helping. I will go at it in the a.m. Also do you have any clue why the door locks don't work when i push the actual switch on the door itself.