So I purchased a 2008 is250 with a no crank. I was told that it runs and drives( I know you can bash me). But it does not crank.
I noticed that it gets power but none of the door locks, or windows roll up and down when the car is on. Where to go from here. I hope i'm not in over my head.

 

Go deeper! What does work!!!? We need details....
Also, you need DMM/volt ohm meter and a 12v dc test lamp.
Start by pulling the battery, charging it, and have it load tested. Replace as needed. A weak link on any modern car is jumping them with reversed leads... It does damage. Be wise!

 

The head lights,interior lights, horn and gages light up. But the radio, power door locks do not work from the remote or key fob. Truck button also does not work. I'm thinking the start is bad. I'll take it out and dench test it and report back

 

You hear the feel pump come on? Gauge needles sweep? Can you take it out of park, or turn on heater blower? See if you can get a code reader on it. Torque Pro or OBD Fusion.

 

Wow, you actually bought a car with no start. Very risky. Hope you got it for a real good price. Start checking fuses, good luck.

 

$TwoFiddy$ lol... i doubt it, but i bet it was cheap!

 

Can you be a little more specific when you write "no crank"? Does the starter engage ? Or does the starter engage and the car simply not start ? You could be experiencing an issue such as weak battery, Immobilzer/security system, bad starter, failed fusible link, bad fuse, failed fuel pump, etc., etc., etc. Always start with the simplest which is the battery then I would suggest Immobilzer system. Perform the Lexus recommended procedure of using the fob to push the start button, if still no start then replace the battery in the key fob and attempt a start and progress from there such as this:
I just went through a no-start condition on my 07 IS350 after I inadvertently let the battery get weak after not driving the car for about 2 months. The car did start but I made the mistake of turning on the seat warmers while idling as I waited for my wife. Because the warmers are a high electrical draw item and the battery was already weak, the charging system apparently couldn't make up the deficit in electrical power at idle and the car died most likely because the battery voltage dropped too far. Realizing my mistake, I turned the seat heaters off but there was no way the car would restart, it wouldn't even turn over and even the self test lights were dim when I tried a restart. I load tested my battery and it was at 8 volts and I was surprised the car even started the first time but it obviously had more than 8 volts in it when I initiated the first start attempt because it started but the seat heaters pulled too much out of the already weakened battery and that was that......

I put the battery charger on the car, we got in the truck and ran our errand. After charging the battery, the car did not recognize the keys (door locks didn't work, etc) and from there on it was a major pita trying to diagnose the issue. The battery was fine but I purchased a new one anyhow, replaced the batteries in the key fobs, did the key reset procedure (car would not crank using the keyfob to press the start button) and it seemed as if the immobilzer system did not recognize the key and the Owner's Manual doesn't give any clues on how to properly diagnose the issue but I performed the Immobilzer reset procedure as above anyhow. The car would still not crank but car recognized the fobs now but would crank let alone start so I disconnected the battery, checked all the fuses that may create a no crank, no start condition including the fusible link. All looked fine. After reconnecting the battery (resets the ECU) the car would start momentarily but die within a second or two and would then not even turn over with subsequent start attempts. Disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery would result in the same, car would start once but not run and then not even turn over. That told me the fuel pump was working or it would not restart during subsequent attempts as well as the ignition system being operational. It seemed obvious to me that a sensor of some sort was putting the car into a no-crank condition after an initial start attempt and it turned out to be the fuel pressure sensor which is screwed into the back of one of the fuel rails on the back of the engine. I have no idea what caused the failure or why and can only assume that maybe the low volt condition caused the failure or perhaps the failure was only coincidental with the dead battery, I don't know.

I got the idea of the fuel pressure sensor from a Youtube video I found and the mechanics explanation of how the sensor is wired into the electrical system. A failure will not throw a code and can prevent the car from turning over and of course, not starting. It's not a difficult job, and the sensor is a common Toyota part # 89458-30010. I purchased a $30 remanufactured sensor with a lifetime warranty off of Ebay along with a pack of 10 crush washers, Toyota # 90430-12026 for about $20 and I was glad that I bought the 10 pack of washers instead of only the one needed as I removed the sensor once when I had trouble getting the electrical connector snapped back together and there is very little room with which to work. I suppose I could have reused the washer but didn't want to take the chance. Here's the Youtube link:
Here's another excellent presentation on accessing the sensor. This car is an IS250 but the engine architecture is very similar to the IS350 and the procedure is essentially the same.
There's not a whole lot of information about this no-crank, no-start condition that is peculiar to the fuel pressure sensor failure but replacing the sensor on my car resolved the issue and car seems fine now. I also purchased the intake manifold gaskets along with a throttle body gasket but mine were in excellent shape so I simply reused them. My total parts cost was approx $80 dollars and in terms of removing and replacing the fuel pressure sensor, about two hours of my time. I could probably do the complete job now in about an hour. I spent far more time trouble shooting and trying to figure out what was wrong. I had also had a lengthy conversation with a mechanic and service advisor at an independent garage that specializes in Lexus service and had I been told of this particular oddity in these cars it would have saved me a lot of time spent online trying to diagnose the issue. It was suggested that my starter might be bad as well as a bad fuel pump but I found both of those scenarios unlikely especially since the car would start after resetting the ecu. I certainly thought about throwing in the towel and getting towed to the nearest garage but I knew it was extremely likely I would wind up having to pay for a bunch of parts replacement because technicians/mechanics sometimes simply start replacing parts instead of properly diagnosing the issue to begin with. I'm glad I persevered and I got lucky finding the Youtube video of the "no-start no communication" video. Good luck with resolving the issue. I hope this post has helped or at least given you an idea or two.....





After

 

needles do sweep. I can't turn on the blower. Code reader doesn't get power from the OBD port. door locks dont work

 

yup i sure did. Worst come to worst i can get what i paid for it. Thats life don't cry over spilt milk. Just take it on the chin and move on.

 

I don't hear the fuel pump come on but the gauge needles do sweep.. its like the car is getting power but the windows, seats or other accessories do not get power. Im really stuck and baffled.

 

From reading your last three posts I would methodically perform the key reset procedure carefully. I experienced the same symptoms you're describing, electronic door locks didn't work, no power to the OBD port, etc. I would suggest focusing only on the starting circuit for now and don't worry about blower motors or systems unrelated to the start circuit. Step one is to make sure the car's ECU "see's" the key and there is very little information about trouble shooting the issue but the following procedure does not jeopardize anything and it costs nothing to perform.

You need to make sure the Immobilizer system is preventing a start....

What worked for me: remove the cover hiding the manual door lock that is behind the driver's door handle, then To reset the immobilizer system, close all doors including hood, trunk, etc., manually lock the car with the key and leave car for at least 5 minutes.press unlock on the key fob (make sure you have a good battery in the fob) but don't open the door. Then, using the key, lock then unlock the door 4 times. Enter the car, close the door and attempt start with the fob against the start button. It took me several tries to get this procedure to work and I knew that it worked when I finally got a proper pre-start check that the car performs prior to every start. The start button will go green, you'll get a quick check of warning lights which quickly extinguish, a quick needle sweep, and then the car should turn over and car hopefully will start.

However, there is one fault that will prevent the car from cranking and thus starting and that is a fuel pressure sensor failure. If the fuel pressure sensor has failed, you will not get an OBD code. In my case, I would get a "no signal" from the OBD reader and that's because of how the start circuit is designed. The car will also not turnover and the fuel pump will not run and this is all because of how the start circuit is designed. It's very easy to confuse this condition with other issues and is very frustrating because it doesn't make sense to design a car this way. It's the only system on the car that I'm now aware of that is designed this way and I'm guessing that it's only going to happen if the fuel pressure sensor has completely failed thus interrupting the common circuit shared by the fuel pressure sensor, ECU, starter, and the fuel pump. I suppose it's possible if the FPS is going bad to maybe read a code but if it's failed in a manner that disrupts continuity in it's circuit, you will not be able to read it because the ECU has been isolated and that's why you will get a "no signal" on your reader if that's the issue.... Make sense ???

I just went through the scenario you are describing and the Youtube video that I previously posted "No start, No Communication" is what got me headed in the correct direction as far as getting my car started again and back on the road. The Immobilizer system is the other system that can cause all kinds of headaches and there is very little guidance on properly identifying that's the issue let alone resetting the system and partly because the symptoms don't seem to be uniform from car to car. There's also another ECU reset procedure that I have been told about but I was reluctant to try with my car. I was lucky in that the manual lock procedure described above worked for me in "waking" my car back up and it seeing the key. There are several Youtube videos on resetting the ECU's/remarrying the keys and it involves jumping pins 4 and 13 on the OBD port but I did not do that and that would be something I would only do as a last ditch effort to avoid taking the car to a dealership in order to remarry the keys to the ECU in order to verify that's not what's preventing a start. I would strongly suggest performing the Immobilizer reset procedure I just gave you instructions for and then if still no start.... Replace the fuel pressure sensor.

A fuel pressure sensor failure will prevent the car from starting and sometimes from cranking over as well, as it did in my case, and that's by design. You will not be able to read a failure with your OBD reader either and I replaced mine on faith and because there didn't seem to be any other issues that it could be in the situation I experienced.

Take a look at this thread and in particular post #16. The poster in post #16 was apparently experiencing the same no-start condition (I did a search but didn't save the link) with his car and replacing the fuel pressure sensor resolved his issue just like it did mine. This post also has a helpful pdf download on replacing the sensor.

 

that didn't work for me because when i push the button on the key fob it does not unlock the door. I'm very clueless as to what is going on. The door lock buttons, radio, power seats, trunk pop, or none of that works.
I am lost as to what to do next. I thing i will have it towed to a shop to see if he can fix it if not. Guess i'll be parting it out. To try and get most of my money back.

 

Ham, I had the same problem as you except that I new my car's history and new my key fobs were good prior to the no-crank issue I had.

In other words, neither of my keys would unlock the doors with the fob button just like you are currently experiencing. This was because the fobs were not communicating with the car......The car has a theft prevention system that's called the Immobilizer system and the car has to communicate with the keys or the buttons won't work !

Try the manual lock procedure I sent you previously. The purpose of the procedure is to restore your car's ability to communicate with the key fobs. The procedure may not work the first time and I think it was the 3rd time for me that restored the FOB operation wherein the buttons would lock and or unlock the doors to the car. That is step one with what you're dealing with. The car will NOT start if it doesn't recognize the key fobs....Keep this as simple as possible because you're dealing with a complex system that can cause all kinds of aggravation and confusion.

I would suggest you not worry about radio operation, blower motors, or systems unrelated to starting the car until you've successfully started the car. I suspect these other issues will resolve themselves once the car recognizes the key. Do you know for sure if the key fob(s) you have were in fact previously recognized by the car ?

 

that i do not know, but i will try again. Befor u say F this car.

 

OP, what did you pay for it?
At the very least, do as suggested and make sure the key is synced with ECU and body. That said, Techstream + good technician would go a long ways.
I'd take this in a second as I like a good challenge when there is no timeliness. You just need to follow the leads until you can prove what works and what doesn't.

We have no ideas what skills you have but things like blown fuses, mice, reversed polarity battery connections, FP sensor, are all possible and need looked at. Follow the leads... Look for signs of where others have been and what they were looking for. Scratches, paint knocked off, dust cleaned off, bolts and screws moved, grease, oil, finger prints. Usually if we slow down we see where others have been.
Can you say for certain car shows no signs of being a flood victim or stolen?

If you know any good Toyota techs, get in touch.