Hello! -

I have a 2006 IS250 with AFS and the driver's side HID low beam headlight shuts off intermittently. If I turn the headlights off and back on, the driver's side headlight will turn back on and may or may not eventually turn off again. I'm assuming this is indicative of a failing ballast?

Is that correct? And how do I know if the failing ballast is for a D2S or a D4S HID bulb so I can purchase the correct ballast prior to disassembling my entire front bumper... Was the mercury-free H4S around in 2006?

Thank you!

Step one, swap the bulbs. If the problem follows the bulb it is the bulb. Do not leave fingerprints on the glass. If you touch it, it will crack when hot. Clean with methonal, IPA ect and lint, oil free cloth.
While they are out, you will see its markings. I didn't look it up but even 2006 should be D4S.

FWIW: mine did the same. D4's don't last like the old Mercury filled D2's.

Oh, remove air box on right side. Done in 5 min tops. Left side unbolt the wiper fluid filler neck and there is enough room.

its D4S. Depending on the condition of your 06 Headlights, might be time to replace the assemblies with aftermarket for clean fresh look.

VLAND are $559 on eBay here :https://ebay.to/2LQRr9x

as for D4S bulbs online, almost everything you find not from an known authorize Philips or Osram dealer is probably fake. Real bulbs, on the low cost end are usually at least $40 each of an OE replacement.

back before my retrofit, I got Osram CBI replacement from retrofit source for $180/set. Running strong for over two years on my IS and now on my Sienna with retrofit HID projectors for over two years.

OK- swapped the bulbs and took it for a drive. Sadly, headlights stayed on for the entire trip, so I don't know if it's the bulb or the ballast just yet. Maybe next time out...

You mentioned aftermarket headlights - I have been looking at those VLAND and other headlights (AKKON, MostPlus, MicroPower, Spec-D, etc.), but I am too concerned that all those brands are just too unreliable and cheap.

I am especially concerned when there is so much conflicting information on their specifications. One section says they're "fiber optic full LED" whatever that means, and then another section says they're HID and LED. And it doesn't appear that any of the bulbs are replaceable, so if a bulb fails, I'm replacing the full headlight. And based on other postings you can't purchase just one, so you're purchasing two headlights again.

Any real-world feedback is welcomed! Thanks.

Typically mine would die (bulbs) in 15 to 20min of warming but those were summer 85°F temps. On restart it would be orange with very little light output.

Just go flip them on and leave them on. Not moving should reduce run time. Be ready with jumper cables....

Anyone have any additional input on the Chinese aftermarket headlights (VLAND, AKKON, MicroPower, etc.)?

The "cheapness" scares me from believing that they're bright enough or reliable enough...

They are all cheap. You're just paying for the cool factor. IMO I think the VipMoto Z are the best bang for the buck as far as "cheap after market look"

The output once aimed properly with an HID kit makes a big difference. You have to remove a metal cut off plate inside the projector first. Then you will get a non spotty light output on the road.

I thought I had mine dialed in. I may play with it once it dries up to bring the spacing of the beams closer at 25ft.

Right now in have it dialed in at 54.00 inches center to center. I think for the VIPMotoZ the sweet spot is around 50-52".

This set up leaves me with a small gap where the two patterns meet making one pattern on the road.

You can search the last page here of the thread. POST #157

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...lights-11.html

OP the D4 bulbs are wear items. Short of buying all new HL assembly's, you could start there.

As for the old statement you get what you pay for you can buy new bulbs for as little as $60 for the pair or up to $200. I've been using these for 2.5 years now.
Morimoto HB Green D4S
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bu...-xengreen.html

I just bought a set of VLANDs to tear down, inspect and review internal components, and reseal with butyl instead of permaseal.
I am currently stuck on the permaseal and waiting on more specialty tools so its easier to open.

First impressions are that the build quality (plastics, clarity of lens, and hardware) is pretty good. I've open and worked with many OEM and aftermarket headlights including the DEPO and VIPMotoZ and am impressed so far with the outside of these.

Others complain about leaks but the permaseal glue i've been messing with says otherwise, but there might be some gaps for water on a few units.

They come with an auto-level motor used in newer Toyota cars (Tundra LED OE headlights). For 2011+ HID guys, this will work and you retain autolevel (older HID AFS are SOL)

I will have a full review in a few weeks when I get time to open them and edit video... www.youtube.com/tunerwithkids

bought the Vland headlights for my 06 about 6 months back, so far so good. You’ll have to manually aim them which can be pretty tedious but output is decent, I only have done city driving and my only complaint is that the high beam is pretty weak compared to OEM but I haven’t been in a situation where I need to use high beams. But my ballasts were going which is why I decided to go with aftermarket in the first place. That, and the lens was basically yellow no matter what I did due to oxidation. I’ve got some pics of how they look but will need to take some more of light output.