Problems after changing headlight bulbs?
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2
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From: Ca
Problems after changing headlight bulbs?
I unplugged my negative battery cable and proceeded to install new ds4 bulbs.
After everything is said and done. I turned the car on and checked to see if my bulbs worked.
They did.
Shorty thereafter, I started my car and was about to pull out and and my check vsc and the dreaded "check engine" light are in.
The car ran perfectly fine before this and never showed this before.
Any idea guys?
After everything is said and done. I turned the car on and checked to see if my bulbs worked.
They did.
Shorty thereafter, I started my car and was about to pull out and and my check vsc and the dreaded "check engine" light are in.
The car ran perfectly fine before this and never showed this before.
Any idea guys?
I also had the same problem as you did when replacing my HID bulbs. Go back in and make sure all the connections are TIGHT between the bulb and ballast connectors and also make sure they are sitting in the correct position and locked in correctly in the head light housing. This should fix the issue.
I got scared when I saw this as well but after doing what i mentioned above the lights on the dash went away. I'm almost 100% positive something was loose or not locked in correctly.
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Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Ca
Yeah, I unplugged the maf sensor.
Removed all the necessary equipment.
I drove the car around to see if anything is changed
The lights turned off.
But the car idles at 500 rpms.
It feels slower now...
My windows don't work anymore neither.
My passenger side window only operates when you roll it down from the button located on that specific door.
I don't get it...
All I unplugged was the negative battery cable, maf sensor, and the bulb wire...
What the hell could've possibly happened?
Removed all the necessary equipment.
I drove the car around to see if anything is changed
The lights turned off.
But the car idles at 500 rpms.
It feels slower now...
My windows don't work anymore neither.
My passenger side window only operates when you roll it down from the button located on that specific door.
I don't get it...
All I unplugged was the negative battery cable, maf sensor, and the bulb wire...
What the hell could've possibly happened?
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Yeah, I unplugged the maf sensor.
Removed all the necessary equipment.
I drove the car around to see if anything is changed
The lights turned off.
But the car idles at 500 rpms.
It feels slower now...
My windows don't work anymore neither.
My passenger side window only operates when you roll it down from the button located on that specific door.
I don't get it...
All I unplugged was the negative battery cable, maf sensor, and the bulb wire...
What the hell could've possibly happened?
Removed all the necessary equipment.
I drove the car around to see if anything is changed
The lights turned off.
But the car idles at 500 rpms.
It feels slower now...
My windows don't work anymore neither.
My passenger side window only operates when you roll it down from the button located on that specific door.
I don't get it...
All I unplugged was the negative battery cable, maf sensor, and the bulb wire...
What the hell could've possibly happened?
The cars idle will sort it self off after a few miles. The windows have to be set and by cutting the battery you have to now set them. When you look at your window switches I bet they are flashing right? It means they need to be set - search on here how to do it - then the auto 1 touch features will be restored. On each door and from the passenger door.
roll down windows hold it for 3 second, then roll them up and hold it for 3 second (one at a time). You're good to go. As for idle, you should let your car idle about 5-7 mins before drive it after reset ECU (Disconnect Negative terminal is also known as resetting ECU)
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