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I would ask if they they know hot to adjust the sub-frame.
Dedicated alignments shops would be capable of doing this.
I went to a dedicated alignment shop, and they said they couldn't adjust the subframe. They said if they do it would throw of the other side., however they could adjust my steering wheel to compensate for the pulling. Any other help is highly appreciated.
They're idiots. It will affect the other side, but it's just as screwed up. You're looking for balance between right and left, and you currently do not have balance at all. If they reposition the subframe correctly, your camber and caster will be within the normal range and you should be better off.
Simple arithmetic shows this - if you add the front camber (left + right) you get -0.7 + - 1.5 = -2.2. If you divide -2.2 by 2 which is what happens if you move the subframe toward the left side, you'll get exactly -1.1 on both sides which is precisely what the alignment sheet says it should be.
A number of IS-F owners have done this. It works very well and makes the car drive straight without any steering corrections at all.
The FIGS bushings will fix the inside edge wear problem almost all the 2IS have in the front. Nothing else will, not even repeated changes to alignment.
Last edited by lobuxracer; Oct 31, 2012 at 10:31 PM.
Then it sounds like the shop you went to are incapable of doing this.
What lobuxracer saids is pretty much correct. Basically need to find the right shop which can position the geometry appropriately to get within the correct ranges then the car can be properly aligned.
I do recommend FIGS bushings. I will do this to my vehicle when I switch to my winter tires.
We are also getting install data on the eccentric version of the rear arm bushing to give "clock" positions for some other forms of corrections to caster angles. Something that you might not consider is that a multi-link rear suspension has quite a bit of steering influence. If toe is off in the rear it can impact the front steering. So it is important to align the rear first, then the front. Get the rear toe values balanced before you mess with the front and I am willing to bet it will help. On lowered cars this made even worse with the inclination angle of the toe link causing bump steer which is why we have length adjusting links to mitigate that. vs teh stock eccentric mount on a fixed length link. Above all the tools are only as good as the mechanic using them. If you cannot find a shop that understands simple geometry then all the adjustments will make no difference.
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They're idiots. It will affect the other side, but it's just as screwed up. You're looking for balance between right and left, and you currently do not have balance at all. If they reposition the subframe correctly, your camber and caster will be within the normal range and you should be better off.
Simple arithmetic shows this - if you add the front camber (left + right) you get -0.7 + - 1.5 = -2.2. If you divide -2.2 by 2 which is what happens if you move the subframe toward the left side, you'll get exactly -1.1 on both sides which is precisely what the alignment sheet says it should be.
A number of IS-F owners have done this. It works very well and makes the car drive straight without any steering corrections at all.
The FIGS bushings will fix the inside edge wear problem almost all the 2IS have in the front. Nothing else will, not even repeated changes to alignment.
I understand what your saying completely, and it makes sense to me as well, but now I've taken it to 2 places and they don't know what I'm talking about. Does anyone know any GOOD falignment places in Houston TX?!