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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #2821  
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do you think linea corse are no authentic wheels?

if they will be available on the german market, they will have the needed standards. it does't mater if the rim is $50 oder $1000, they have to run all the same tests, on the specific car they are sold for.

I would buy bbs rims (german quality lol!) but 5000€ for wheels and tires is just too much, I am not willing to spend such an amount just for better looks..
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #2822  
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Originally Posted by DocFreud
do you think linea corse are no authentic wheels?

if they will be available on the german market, they will have the needed standards. it does't mater if the rim is $50 oder $1000, they have to run all the same tests, on the specific car they are sold for.

I would buy bbs rims (german quality lol!) but 5000€ for wheels and tires is just too much, I am not willing to spend such an amount just for better looks..
i can't comment on linea corse wheels being authentic or replica, but i haven't seen, heard, or read about linea corse wheels passing any JWL/VIA/TUV standard tests. also, one of the more popular wheels in its line-up is a replica of the BBS LM.

understandably, quailty comes at a high price, but peace of mind is almost priceless.

anyways, before this discussion gets too far off-topic, best of luck with your search for wheels that'll give you the stance you're looking for.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #2823  
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Hmm.. Then what would you suggest I do? I got a really good deal on works and already put a down payment on them. Will I just have to sacrifice my monthly canyon runs? If what you said about the rear not having much traction is correct, I won't enjoy my ride, especially because I hit corners pretty hard. Also, will shaving my fenders be adequate? A few people here have said that shaving will provide more clearance than rolling...
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #2824  
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Originally Posted by A_Grasso
Hmm.. Then what would you suggest I do? I got a really good deal on works and already put a down payment on them. Will I just have to sacrifice my monthly canyon runs? If what you said about the rear not having much traction is correct, I won't enjoy my ride, especially because I hit corners pretty hard. Also, will shaving my fenders be adequate? A few people here have said that shaving will provide more clearance than rolling...
get your money back and keep looking.

if you drive aggressively, 215's in the front are manageable, but 215's in the rear will really suck in terms of traction.

think of it this way... oem 18's run 255's in the rear. if you can break traction on them with yoru IS350 easily, imagine how much more easy it is with a tire with a contact patch that's 40mm narrower. so not only will you have to sacrifice your monthly canyon runs, you'll also have to sacrifice your overall driveability of your IS350 - especially so if you're an aggressive driver.

on a related note, i wouldn't shave fenders. by shaving fenders, they lose their structural rigidity from the loss of material, and if not done correctly you'll end up with exposed metal on the edge of the fender lip that will shred the tire sidewalls. that, and once you shave your fenders, you can't modify them any more without compromising structural rigidity (ever seen taco'd fenders?). at least with fender rolling you can still opt to shave your fenders afterwards.

just remember that fender modifications - roll, pull, shave, etc. - are pretty much permanent and irreversible (short of brand new fenders). unless you are 100% sure of what you'll be getting into, don't go down this road. otherwise, you'll just hate yourself for throwing money at all that fender work, wheels, and tires that you can't enjoy driving on.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #2825  
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I have a set of winter tires and wheels that I'm trying to make fit on my is350. They do not clear the caliper in the front. They are 17x7.5 +50 on 235/50/17.... I need to know what size spacers to get to make this fit. Any help is appreciated.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #2826  
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im guessing like a 20-25mm depends on back spacing
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:59 AM
  #2827  
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Originally Posted by projectdna
get your money back and keep looking.

if you drive aggressively, 215's in the front are manageable, but 215's in the rear will really suck in terms of traction.

think of it this way... oem 18's run 255's in the rear. if you can break traction on them with yoru IS350 easily, imagine how much more easy it is with a tire with a contact patch that's 40mm narrower. so not only will you have to sacrifice your monthly canyon runs, you'll also have to sacrifice your overall driveability of your IS350 - especially so if you're an aggressive driver.

on a related note, i wouldn't shave fenders. by shaving fenders, they lose their structural rigidity from the loss of material, and if not done correctly you'll end up with exposed metal on the edge of the fender lip that will shred the tire sidewalls. that, and once you shave your fenders, you can't modify them any more without compromising structural rigidity (ever seen taco'd fenders?). at least with fender rolling you can still opt to shave your fenders afterwards.

just remember that fender modifications - roll, pull, shave, etc. - are pretty much permanent and irreversible (short of brand new fenders). unless you are 100% sure of what you'll be getting into, don't go down this road. otherwise, you'll just hate yourself for throwing money at all that fender work, wheels, and tires that you can't enjoy driving on.
hater i shaved mine...


only because i did not wanna pull ever on those fenders. shaving them gave me a ton of clearance compared to rolling, but again i did not EVER want to pull my 2is fenders.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #2828  
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Originally Posted by Mv350
im guessing like a 20-25mm depends on back spacing
Coo thanks but where can I find out?. I need to order spacers in order to get them wheels on
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #2829  
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try and mount the wheel and measure the distance you need to clear. i dont have your wheels to do it for you, better to over estimate a tad but just measure it.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #2830  
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hello all,
would this work without fender mods? I'm on coils and would probably like to go lower to one finger gap.

19x9 +35 225/35/19
19x10 +35 245/35/19

thanks
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 08:20 AM
  #2831  
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19X9.5 +12. What size tire is needed to run those in the front? I know I will need to do some work to get them to fit just seeing how bad it will be.

The rear is 10.5 +22 which seems easier to fit
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #2832  
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Originally Posted by RealStreet
19X9.5 +12. What size tire is needed to run those in the front? I know I will need to do some work to get them to fit just seeing how bad it will be.

The rear is 10.5 +22 which seems easier to fit
thats pretty aggressive! I have 20x8.5 +20 running 225/35 rub alittle, and 20x10+20 running 245/35.. sticking out 1/2" you might need to run 235/30 or 245/30 + fender mods
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #2833  
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Originally Posted by RealStreet
19X9.5 +12. What size tire is needed to run those in the front? I know I will need to do some work to get them to fit just seeing how bad it will be.

The rear is 10.5 +22 which seems easier to fit
I run 9.5 +10 in the front and my fenders are pulled. I suggest 225/35 front and 245/35 rear. The rear just needs a good roll.
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 04:21 AM
  #2834  
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Ok perfect. I will run the 225/35 up front. Do you think I can get away with a 265/30 out back?

Picking up the wheels on Saturday
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 07:57 AM
  #2835  
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you could but because of the difference between brands and sizes i would just run a 245/35 its not that bad of a stretch at all.

this is 19x10.5+22 245/35 tucking about half the tire.
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this is a great view of 19x10.5+22 and why everyone wanting aggressive in a known offset... here you go
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