Thanks guys. Don't have anymore photos of the car yet - just got it setup the 2 days before posting those pics. Not much else done to the car yet so didn't feel it was worthy yet.

Going to throw a 18x13 together tomorrow with a 295/30/18 and show you all what really could be done. Didn't want to go this way as it wasn't as economical. Don't need 295's everyday :-)

 

Its funny cause those are CCWs custom everything. Try going with something jdm thats 13" wide and see if it'll fit.

 

Bolt pattern, centerbore, width, offset, and disk thickness. All things you can select from most wheel manufactures except for centerbore as most manufatures oversize them for hubrings as they'll fit more vehicles that way. In this case it only takes the right offset and bolt pattern to make it work.

 

Ccdan I have some camber arms in the mail. If you may lend some advice, I run 10.5 rears currently at +31mm offset. That's with a 10mm spacer. I want to go with 15mm but here's my problem. I tried it before only to find out I can't have anyone else in the car but me. The moment I do a harsh sounds comes from the rear fenders, almost like metal to metal. However when I check my wheel, no signs of such.

I have rolled and slight pull on the rear, any degree of camber you might suggest running?

Any advice would be appreciated man, thanks.

 

Holy gap!!!

 

Simple process of elimination. We know when they are +31 or higher offset the rubbing issue doesn't exist so we know suspension, brake, hub clearance isn't the issue as the 15mm spacer gives you better clearance to all those so it has something to do with the outside/edge of the fender. Could be one of three things:

- Tire/Wheel is hitting at the 9-10 o-clock area on the pinch weld; fender wasn't rolled far enough down
- Tire/Wheel is hitting the bumper and/or bumper to rear quarter panel connection at the 2-3 o-clock area
- Granted it not one of the above: camber gain isn't happening quick enough; aka the geometry just doesn't work. Camber arms or more pull will fix this. Without going into mass details the angle at which the upper control arms sit at will determine how much camber the car can pull. Hints why when the car is lowered the camber is substantially negative over stock. There is no great way to fix the camber gain other than running a shorter tire than stock as to tuck it you need to lower the car more. Considering your not going to run out and buy shorter tires the camber arms will give you the needed clearance to the fender by pulling the top of the wheel further under the car. Same thing as more pull just less risky.

Here is a quick diagram of camber gain. Dotted line is the fender, the red line is the arc at which the hub follows (aka camber gain), and the blue area is the additional clearance gained by doing each.



Other thing I would suggest is get two 2x4's that are around 24-32" long and stack them on top of each other. Jack one corner of the car up and slide the boards under the tire and slowly let the car down and let the wheel/tire rest on the boards. You will get that corner of the car to compress substantially and you can control the drop using the jack. This will allow you to check your work as you go and sit right in front of the issues and address them instead of the drive around, rub rub, pull everything off and check method.

 

great advice man I appreciate it, and the 2x4 trick definitely will save me some time. Unfortunately I did run out and buy smaller tires but thats ok since my old tires were coming up to their due time. I am now running 245/35/19. Reason why I want to go with 15mm is because drum roll... I like seeing my rear lip on my side view mirror , for which I am concerned about. I just dont want to run 15mm spacers only to add more negative camber and look like 10mm again.

I did go back and had the fenders re-rolled, only to hear the same grinding noise. I was also thinking of placing a piece of blue painters tape on the 9-10 oclock and 2-3 oclock and seeing if they come off while driving. What is annoying me the most is a friend of mine is running +24 with no issues, except the minor occaisonal lip hitting the fender under high spring compression. At first I thought my spring rate might be too soft but hes running 8k rear and I have 9k..

what would you do? I have a set of camber arms in the mail. Havent bought the spacers just yet. Would you buy the spacers and try to accomplish it without the camber arms first? or should I install them regardless?

I just dont want to install them if I dont need them. I believe the most negative stock camber will go is -2.2 degree.

 

It could be the tire brand you are running. Example: Nankang run small, Federal runs wide, Falken 452 run smaller than nankang, etc...

 

I think what you'll find is it's in the 9-10 or 2-3 area. You shouldn't need the blue tape as if you do the 2x4 trick you will be able to get what you need. You just need everything set so under compression the rim and tire tucks then it doesn't matter the spring rate, damning, or ride height.

Fully agree! I'd assume regardless with a 245/35 on a 10.5 the edge of the rim would still be the furthest point outward. Might not be though.

 

thanks guys, and yes with the 245/35 the edge of the rim is definitely the further point outward on the wheel.
gonna be trying the compression trick with 2x4's this weekend and will report back.

 

Looks sick, Dan! Lester was telling me you put LM5s on it and I was waiting to see good pics. I test fitted a 18x10.5 +20 classic on my IS and it looked too small.

Can't you make us 19" LM5s? Do it, do it!!!!

One thing, what camber arms did you run? Just the megan racing ones everyone recommends?

http://meganracing.com/product.asp?prodid=886&catid=25

This could quite possibly be my favorite IS to date. OMG! I am in loveeeeeeeeeeee.

OT- but what exhaust is that?

 

lol thats X-rated

 

looks like another IS with raised quarters to meet the wald, noice!

 

If i remember correctly, He shaved the corners of the spoiler. I think if i was gonna mold i'd go that route too, just incase i part out.

 

Megan's like everyone else. Figs said they were going to come out with some links simular but decided not to wait. Forgot which part numbers I used since there are so many it can be confusing. Just both upper arms.