I have this set up, but on ksport coils and pretty much fender roll all around and some shaving on the rear where the fender meets the bumper... And also completely shaved off the front bumper tabs and replaced with JDM fasteners and trimmed and cut the fender liner upfront but because im running 235/35 with your 225/35 you should be better off and im not slammed just slightly tucked

 

I love those wheels, how do you like the ride with smaller wheels upfront?

 

It surprising rides really well. I went with a 225/35 to have a little more side wall. I think that definitely helps with ride quality

 

Thats what im running on my 19s, 35 series but 235s upfront but some 18s in the front will give me a lower stance hhhhmmmm I may try it out

 

Hey guys just trying to see if anyone still had an update on whether anyone in here out of all the members was running a +15 20x11 rear wheels before or currently

 

Can be done your just gonna have to put in the work to fit it.

 

Thanks man... i decided to go with a different wheel

 

Volk CE28N
19x9.5 +22 255/30/19 - front
19x10.5 +12 275/30/19 - rear

 

where'd you get those splitters? Looks so good

 

looks good man. just when i think CE28 are dead, i see a dope setup on a car again

 

I'm Curious.. How much rolling will i have to do.. I'm running 19x8 +35 235/35 19x9 +32 255/35 with tein s tech drop..

 

I love your car, I want to see more pictures of it

And how aggressively did you pull your fenders? or do you have camber arms to help you with fitting those specs?

 

AIT Racing makes them. Around $700 for the sides and rears.

I don't think TE37's or CE28's will ever die :-)

Thanks man. I really don't have any photos of it yet as I put those on to check my tire sizing and pulled them off and put the CCW SP16A Hybrids back on. I'll most likely have everything done and put together here in a week or two.

Fenders are barely pulled. Maybe a 1/4" at max. From the body line around the fender they're more so angled to match the stretch. I made sure not to go to crazy as I also pulled the bumper to quarter connection to make the pull look seamless (no bubble like you see on most other cars). Just looks cleaner and more OEM.

The main advantage is all the adjustable links I have. All 5 links have be replaced with adjustable ones which there is enough slop in the axles to adjust all the links inwards. This effectively lets me lower the offset of the car. The upper control arm just like any other car as shortened adjusts your camber gain. It's nice to have as little camber gain as possible which the 2IS is setup to do but as most guys running aggressive setups come to find out you can't poke wheels without the wheels hitting the quarters. By shortening the upper control arm and changing your camber gain (will camber quick and more drastic the shorter) you will find a happy medium at a certain point of poking where the car will camber enough for the wheel to tuck into the fender when compressed enough. The upper control arm also allows you to get some tight tolerance between the tire and fender which personally I think makes or brakes as setup. Nothing worst than an aggressive setup with so much stretch you can put your finger between the sidewall and the inside of the fender. Anyone can do that easy **** :-).

 

Ccdan dame tucking 275 car looks clean. I rub 19x10.5+22 Volk TE 245/35 on the rear bumper tab. I'm debating on getting the figs kit to get my camber adjusted. I rather run 265/30 if I can myself.

 

245/35/19 and 265/30/19's will stretch almost the same. Shorter sidewall needs less of a width difference in order to stretch. Taller the side wall the more difference is needed.

Figs would help with less negative camber but really does nothing for you other wise unless you have all the links. The figs will also offset the wheel towards the back of the wheel well making your rubbing issue worse as it's that way.

The trailing arm (front lower control arm) will also adjust camber; if shortened it would lessen your camber and pull the wheel forward.

The upper straight control arm is most likely your best option as it doesn't move the wheel around at all and pulls the top of the tire in. This would effectively fix your issue with the most ease. If it pulls too much camber for your likings I would suggest then getting the trailing arm as it will then lessen the camber back to where it was and pull the wheel forward.

After any of these adjustments you'll need to adjust the toe. Factory adjustment "might" be out of range depending on what you adjust and how much so be per paired you may have to fork out for these.

You can see it's easy to get overwhelmed had hard to decide on what to buy.