So, I am somewhat decent with car mechanics and I used to change my oil on my Ford Explorer. I just purchased my 2003 is300 Sport Design E-shift and want to try my own oil changes.

Here is what I know… If any of the ohhh-so-wise Lexus guru’s want to provide additional information, that would be fantastic.

1.) Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a pan. I’m assuming the oil plug is in the same general area as I am used to with the Explorer. I haven’t looked though.

2.) Unscrew the oil filter and let the excess oil drain into the pan as well. Is the filter in general easy to access and remove? The explorer was a pain in ***.

3. ) Prep the new filter and screw it on.

4.) Replace the oil drain plug. Anyone know what torque to set the plug?

5.) Fill the engine with oil through the engine oil compartment. This is a really stupid question, but how many courts of oil do I put in? I know I can just test with the dip-stick, but in general?

Ok, so the real question is what filter does everyone use? I’ve heard people say Fram is really horrible. So what about just a Napa filter or something along these lines? Second, what about oil? Synthetic, Castrol, Mobil? What does everyone use and why/advantages? Thanks for the information.

 

What filter? I would use the factory Toyota/Lexus oil filter as long as it was still under warranty. Any good name-brand premium oil with an SL or better rating (check the manual) should be fine...I use Castrol dino (petroleum) 5W-30 with no problems. Castrol, Valvoline, Kendall, and Penzoil all have good reputations. Outside of places with extreme temperatures like North Dakota, Canada, the Desert Southwest, etc... full synthetic probably is not needed, although, of course, it will give you better protection no matter where you live or drive.

A couple of suggestions for do-it-yourself oil changes:

Drain the old oil with the engine HOT (or at least warm). That will help all of the old oil drain out with the dirt. Wear gloves if the filter is too hot to handle.

When you replace the drain plug, put a new washer on with it....the Toyota/Lexus parts department will usually give you one with the filter. Make sure the seating area is clean.

When you prep the filter, put a thin film of oil on the rubber O-seal before you screw it on. This will help it seal properly. MAKE SURE the old rubber O-seal came off with the old filter...it sometimes sticks on.

The IS300 3.0L engine generally holds from 5.2 to 5.5 quarts with filter. This may not agree exactly with the manual but it usually puts it up around the full mark.

Change the oil every 3 months / 3000 miles for best protection. You will be saving some money by doing it yourself anyway. if you DO decide to have the shop do it, Toyota shops will do it usually for about half of what a Lexus shop will charge....and for the same factory filter.

Almost any gas station or service shop will take your used oil....just pour it down the recycle tube.
Many places have strict laws about this.

Good luck.

 

well i would defintiely stick with the factory filter. some people say that the ls430 filter is bigger and better, but to me since i change my oil every 3k miles, i probably won't worry too much about it

 

Use nothing but the best. The Japanese made Denso OEM Toyota oil filters...not the Made in US ones.

 

....I agree!! Using the US made filters will result in lower oil pressure ...........

 

Are these Denso filters available over-the-counter in regular Toyota/Lexus shops or do you have to special-order them from Japan?

 

Most all of the over the counter Toyota/Lexus parts department stocks the US Denso filters. A few years ago, it was strictly Denso Japan made ones with the plastic cover over the pre-greased gasket. You can still get the Denso Japan filters through some shops like Carson Toyota Parts Dept. Ask for Steve, Bobby or Gordon and they regularly have them in stock. Order it by the case if you may.

 

Is this a 'GOOD' factory filter? How do you tell if it is the DENSO american or Japan version? Seems to be OEM!

http://lexus-parts.com/partdetail.as...bCategoryID=48

 

The package should say either Made in Japan or Made in USA. Another indicator is if the gasket on the filter is pre-greased and covered in a cellophane wrapper.

 

Sorry if this has been addressed before but I searched and couldn't find an answer. I tried to do my first oil change on the IS300 this weekend. I have been working on my own cars for 30 years including some extensive mods to my MR2 Turbo, so I know my way around cars and it's a little embarrasing to have to ask this but:
How the hell does the filter come out? I don't mean getting it unscrewed, I mean after you take it off the engine, how do you get it out of the engine bay. I tried every which way to take it out through the top but no luck. It doesn't look like it would go out through the bottom either. Do I have to remove something else to get it out or is it just some circuitous path out the bottom?
Thanks (and no snickering, please).

 

i know it's supposed to come out of the bottom somehow, but luxury motorworks (the owner steve was a master lexus tech) uses a pry bar to shift the motor over, then takes it out of the top...

 

Yes this is true as LMW performed my 15k service.

 

A pry bar, huh? I did try moving the engine by hand and was surprised at how much it moved - just not enough. I should have remembered the olod shade tree mechanics' credo, "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger pry bar ." (You can substitute hammer in there as well.)
Thanks, guys.

 

be sure to wrap whatever you are using to pry with some towels, don't want to be stripping any paint or whatever...

 

It takes some skill but can be done w/o a prybar. What I do is take out the tranny dipstick and also unbolt that bracket holding the hose near the filter. Then I have enough room to get it out. I move the filter right, up, left and with a little luck....it should come out. All with a plastic bag/ziplock bag around it to prevent oil spill. In the beginning, it took me a fews times with me spilling oil and arms all scratched up. Now I've got it down to the first attempt, woo hoo!!!

Although if you have the Grounding kit, you'll have to unbolt that and move the ground cables out the way too.

NOW ALL WE NEED IS A PICTURE TUTORIAL ON HOW TO REPLACE THE PLUGS!!!