My 2006 RX 400H is due for a complete brake overhaul. Dealer quoted me a G-Note for Pads and rotors. I find this to be a little beyond outrageous. I have performed complete brake jobs before, though I am no Class A Certified Mechanic, doing your own brakes is pretty basic.

I will be investing in a Brake Caliper service Tool, because I am pretty sure the rear calipers will require them since I am betting they will need to be screwed back in.

For those who have done their own brakes on there RX 400H, can you please share with me any insight or tips pertaining to this model?

Much appreciated,

Cheers,

LormaD

 

+1. I would like expert insight as well.
That being said: How many miles on the RX? Typically, the back brake pads/rotors don't go through the same wear and tear as the front ones.

 

Don't think you'll need the tool to screw the piston back in. Typically, that is needed in a system where the parking brake utilizes the caliper to hold the rotor. The RX uses a drum type parking brake (the 'hat' of the rotor is actually a drum and there's a standard type drum brake setup inside that (shoes, springs etc.). If I recall correctly, the piston just pushes back in.

 

To be honest, I let the service dept back in 2009 resurface the rotors, even though I knew that my vehicle was being driven very gingerly. Since, after all, it is a hybrid and not an X6 HotRod SUV.

Anyways, they resurfaced and slapped on new brake pads at the front (mileage was under 30,000 miles. I said that it was kind of premature given the way I/wife drive the vehicle, and the service tech mentioned that all RX's brakes go out at that mileage. I know, I know, I should of said no, but up here, if you don't work with your dealer they usually leave you hanging out to dry whenever an issue comes up concerning whether or not an item or problem will be run under the manufacturers warranty. Put it down to, scratch my back, and they'll scratch yours. Kind of why, I always seem to get a loaner vehicle whenever I bring in the 400H for service. So I had a brain cramp, and bit the bullet on the brake service (450$) for the front set of new pads and resurfacing of the front rotors.

When changing over my tires this year, I noticed the rear discs were scored and my present mileage is 47,000 miles. Since I got a fantastic deal on brand new rotors and pads, (under $300 bucks) I decided to go ahead and install some fresh gear and maintain the braking efficiency of this wonderful vehicle. I have since given up on the whole with dealers in my area, they all are basically in the same boat. They judge Lexus owners as over the hill, Japanese_Cadillac Vehicles, who never get their hands dirty and have they lawns manicured like the women who have there nails done on a weekly basis.

Well, I like most owners, I do not fall in that category, given the stigma of most Lexus owners. As a former owner of a 1993 436 rear wheel hp MR2 Turbo, I liked to tinker.

 

In all honesty, I could of not had the front brakes serviced, and the rear brakes cleaned and lubricated in 2009. And very easily attained the same mileage I have now without any servicing (47000miles).

One of the reasons I like to overhaul the brakes, is because I do not like to have the piston calipers compressed that far, over that a long period of time. The vehicle was purchased new in June 2006, so it is fast approaching 5 years.

 

Had front brakes done, at 68K, new pads and rotors $500, Had rears done at 75K new pads, rotors and seized calipers (under extended warranty) another $500.
Expensive, yes!
Just too much for me to tackle.

 

You can do this job in about a hour...Nothing unusual, just a simple replacement...The only hard part is if you replace the rear disk rotor it will probably be corroded on the wheel hub. I would spray the rotor to hub with PB blaster penetrant. let it soak. There is a access hole for the rear emergency brake shoes, you might have to back off the adjuster to get the disk/drum off. There are two screw holes in the disk/hub that you can insert a bolt into and turn in and this will push the disk/hub of the axle shaft. Make sure you lube the guide pins on the caliper when putting the caliper back on.
the torque on the caliper mounting bracket is 58ft.lbs. The caliper guide pins is around 28ft.lbs. Just take your time and you should be able to do the job easily. The fronts are just normal disk brake jobs...

 

I got my RX several months ago with 113K miles. This was a one owner vehicle and it was 100% serviced by Lexus. To my amazement, there is no record of pads even been replaced and the service manager confirmed that. Is this possible?

 

yep, mine has 92k and the service records indicate nothing on the brakes...

 

Hey thomas1, Awesome buddy. Thanks for the pic's. One quick question, you mention "There is a access hole for the rear emergency brake shoes, you might have to back off the adjuster to get the disk/drum off."

1). Is there a plug or screw you need to remove to access the adjuster?

2). Do you remember if you rotate counterclockwise the adjuster to slack the rear brake shoes?

3). When putting back on the new rotors, how "tight" / much do you adjust the rear emergency brake shoes? Common sense, or is there a method to the madness concerning the amount of "tightness".

Thank you for taking the time to post pics...

LormaD

 

OK, I found it! I was looking on the website of the auto parts supplier (Large chain store in Canada) and could not find the following item... EZ Blaster (I didn't know the name). So today I went into the store, and I asked for the sand blasting device that works with a shop vac (or any other brand of heavy duty vacuum cleaner), and of course I had the sales clerk look at me like a rabbit staring into a set of HID headlights. NO Clue. Anyhoot, after perusing the tool aisle and then automotive aisle, I found something hanging from the store shelf all by itself... last one. Not only did I find it, but it was on sale, discontinued, and priced for clearance!

I hope it works, then again, it was only $17 bucks! and came with everything to make it work including the "sand/silica". I have sandblasted before, and if you want to clean metal, rust, dirt, grease etc... nothing quiet cleans metal like firing a high velocity projectile at it. I plan on cleaning the calipers and priming them with a nice coat of flat black high temp paint.

 

The access hole is under a rubber plug on wheel stud side, dont forget to put a couple of lug nuts back on before the adjustment so the drum/disk is sitting tight against the hub. You push the star adjuster away from you to tighten the shoes and toward you to loosen. The star adjuster is on the bottom 6 oclock position when you access the hole. A flashlight helps...in the second picture above you can see the adjuster through the hub...

 

OK, got it... so the adjuster is like a pin wheel, that you push with a flat head screwdriver. Awesome, and nice tip about locking the rotor in place prior to adjusting it the drum shoes.

Cheers,

LormaD

 

Here is a BETTER picture of the device... not sure how much "performance" can be had by the cyclonic effect derived by a high performance shop-vac (the model I have, has the power to siphon and pump water).



Cheers,

LormaD

 

I like to put LIGHT film of never sieze on any metal to metal surface (i.e. brake drum/hub) and lug bolts before reassemling. Save a lot of work in a few years, even if it is someone elses time. Not sure why most dealers/mechs never do this