MadloR

The tool was useless lol. It requires to be placed against a flat surface, to create the vortex... i.o.w., a brake caliper is not the ideal surface. I took out the rotary 90 degree grinder and put on a stiff wire mesh brush, and attacked the calipers and assembly. Cleaned everything right out, got rid of the rust and did a nice job wiping the stainless steel brake pad gliders too.

I found some high quality brake caliper paint, and the same product manufacturer had prep cleaner (that you apply prior to painting the surface), and clear coat. I "Porsche" 0pted for RED, along with the clear coat, the calipers look candy apple sweet. Also, I clear coated parts of the brake rotors that are exposed to the elements and that do not come into contact with the braking surface. The copper like anti seize compound came handy, as I applied that to key areas like the hub assembly between the rotor and hub, as well as all the caliper bolts and brackets. In about 3 - 4 years, I will be thanking myself (if I still have the vehicle lol), or if anybody has done a brake job before will know, it makes the job SO much easier if peeps / mechanics invest in a little anti seize compound.

Thank god from member thomas1 who advised me how to back off the rear drum shoes on the inner side of the rear brake rotors, because otherwise I would of never gotten off one of the two rear discs.

The product is a big improvement over the factory disc and pad setup, in terms of brake feel. I made sure to take the necessary steps to "bed" in the brake pads (still doing so) and the vehicle is being driven gingerly (like if anybody drives there 400h like an X6)...

Cheers,

LormaD

thomas1

Hey what brand of discs did you buy?

MadloR

the site, I do not know if we are allowed to say it...

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It was shipped by FEDEX, and included rotors that were finished in a shiney protective silver finish, along with semi-metallic brake pads. The quality of the rotor was bang on in terms of size, dimension and thickness. They were slightly, slightly lighter, owing to the fact they are cross drilled and have slots in them. The pads were beautiful semi metallic pads that came pre-shimmed, just like the factory pads, which I believe were not semi-metallic.

At the same time, I ordered for a friend of mine the same setup for his 2006 Acura TL and once again, it was identical in terms of consistency of product and quality of the components.

It did not take long, or much driving to get the pads to bed and function nicely. I didn't REALLY need crossed drilled and slotted rotors, but the fact they came with a protective finish and came with semi-metallic pads and included shipping at a really fair price, I believe the cost including shipping from USA to Canada for both vehicles came out to $674CDN... Given the fact that RX rotors cost more than say the ACURA, it was still far cheaper than the $1000 the stealer wanted.

Cheers,

LormaD

colinshots

Hi, I have a 2006 RX400H 47K miles and I'm considering chnging the brake pads (and possibly rotors) but I have seen online forums stating that doing this as a DIY job will create warning light problems that will require a Lexus dealer to reset using a scan tool. (something to do with sensing changes in fluid level after the caliper pistons are pushed in to accomodate the new pads)
Do you know if this is correct?
And if it is, would a commercially available scantool be able to do this?
Regards