Mark Levinson No Sound
I still have no sound.The technician at United Radio advised me that they are the only certified/authorized repair for these components, not the dealership. Now that both units have been checked out and found no problems my only recourse is the dealership. Maybe a defective wiring harness etc. Any recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I still have no sound.The technician at United Radio advised me that they are the only certified/authorized repair for these components, not the dealership. Now that both units have been checked out and found no problems my only recourse is the dealership. Maybe a defective wiring harness etc. Any recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Spoke to Tech at Mark Levinson / United Radio they are helping me troubleshoot. He suggested checking 2-30 amp fuses behind the right side of the dash. I have to track down where they are and see if they are working.
P.S. i started having issue from a long 8hr drive by switching from iPod option when needed to charge a phone via USB outlet and bluetooth several times `
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Had code B15C3 as a memory code (hold menu button and cycle headlights 3 times) and it would appear as a current code when the audio didn't work.
I work as an electronics repair tech so I pulled the amp apart - had no signs of water damage on mine as many others seem to get but there is a row of 12 small electrolytic surface mount capacitors on the back of the D class amp chips. These are a 22uf 16V caps. They should have an ESR of about 3.5milli ohms which 10 of mine were close to that but one was at 6 milli ohms and another at 11. I temporarily replaced those two with something I had that was similar and so far the issue is gone. I have ordered the correct ones and will change them all later.
Otherwise they seem to be a very well built amp, even with conformal coated PCBs and Rubicon capacitors in the power section etc.
I think for most of them it would be a relatively low cost, straight forward repair
There are places who offer repairs but its not cheap, especially if you are handy with a soldering iron
My best guess currently is that those 22uf caps are used to buffer a 1/2 supply voltage point for the D class amp chips which are doing multilevel pulse width modulation as a way to make cleaner outputs. I doubt they are directly in the audio path, but a more stable supply could improve the sound quality somewhat.
The datasheets for other similar ICs go into a bit of detail around the capacitors required as they work pretty hard in that part of the circuit - a lot of high frequency current. They usually recommend 2X ceramic capacitors in parallel with a reasonably high voltage rating and an X7R or similar dielectric type which is pretty standard for an application like that (X7R caps stay pretty constant with applied voltage and temperature variation where some other dielectric types don't). Using one physically small/ relatively high ESR electrolytic cap in that location (as in the original design) will see the caps run pretty warm and fail fast.
I'm going to try a stack of 2X 10uf ceramics soldered on top of each other to replace each 22uf electro cap. In theory they should have a much lower ESR/Hence much less heat, should perform better and pretty much last indefinitely
something like these from Mouser: 810-C3216X7R1HK160AC
will report back if it works..
Separately, I did come across this post in another forum for a failure, with main difference being that the amp fuse would blow when amp was connected. The amp layout looks similar enough to the GS':
https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/fo...cation-nx300h/
The main part:
- No audio output
- Blown 30A fuse












