So I stopped for gas. Went inside came back out, and no crank, no turn over. Cut everything off. Locked then unlock, and tried again. Still no start. Like a dead battery. Made a phone call to roadside assistance to tow, waited about 10 mins, tried again it started. Drove to Dealer got a new battery put in the remote. Went outside, and no start again?

Went inside talked to service they went outside. They started, then cut off and then, no start again. Left in shop. Next day they call say it starts every time ok. So I drive over there and it starts every time. Dealer checked Battery ( New Lexus Battery only 3 months old). Did a load test and recycle charging system test and no problems found. No check engine, no problems found. So I talk to service Manager. He says what I'm thinking. Either starter or start button. They call in a claim to my extended service contract and they authorize a new starter. Left it there because I needed a coolant flush and brake fluid flush anyway.

I hope it was the starter. I am looking for the LS500 newer style start button to replace also. This was a few day ago, so I get it back tomorrow and will see how it goes. Its a 2013 GS350 Lux with 51k.

 

Just no start, nothing else? Are the relays clicking? Does the button light up green when you press on the brake? Does the car get in "ig ON" mode (double press the button without touching the brake pedal)?

 

Good luck Jamie!

Nice that you have an extended warranty!

I hope they don't just replace the starter with a new one without confirming that it is actually the source of the problem...and the problem randomly continues. That scenario is never good...

Let us know what the problem was.

 

Yeah, sounds like the starter is intermittently failing based on your symptoms. Hopefully all will be good after the swap.
What kind of extended service contract do you have?
Let us know what you find out.
Good luck.

 

@jgscott - It sounds like heat soaking may be affecting a broken armature coil winding in the starter.

 

Thanks guys. Have Assurant Extended service Platinum contract. They hold an A+ rating from the BBB with an average 4.7 out of 5.0 stars from customers. Goes to the year 2026 or 150k.

So they ran all the test they could. Until it fails to start every time there's nothing more they could detect. Did not want to drive to until it does not point, so the Service manager told them to call in a new starter. The headache is it failing then starting again moments later, trying to detect.

To further explain it's a one start button push. It lights up the dash but no start. Next push turns everything off. Push again same thing. No click noise nothing. Kind of like hitting start without foot on brake. One Lexus tech swears it strange because they said the starter just don't go bad on our GS's. It's 10+ years old. lol! Guess I'll see tomorrow.

On a side note they covered a rental for me. I had to take a trip from Atlanta to DC then NY and back. They rented me a car and I got a Audi A5 S Line Quattro. Reminds me of a faster Jetta I had to rent some years ago. I can not wait to give it back.

 

@jgscott - Lexus/Toyota starters are indeed robust and typically don't fail like some other brands do.

Did they check the brake switch? The brake switch must be able to complete a circuit telling the ECM the brake pedal is depressed adequately before the engine can be started.

Did they check the fusing and relays for the starting system?

 

Yes We did discuss the brake switch also. I know switches can go in and out myself but they mentioned that normally when the brake switch goes it goes and that's it. Remember this. It's intermittent. Being unable to fully reproduce when it was in the shop made it hard to put a finger on or test.

Replacing the most expensive repair being the starter, will either resolve or reoccur. At that point if it happens again, then the start button and/or brake switch are next. Its best to go one step at a time in my experience. The PITA is going to be that I get it back then have to wait and drive like a week or 2 before I am sure that it's resolved. The shop said they were going to do some short drives and stop and starts before I pick it up tomorrow. Have to start somewhere.

Lets see what happens. You know I will update. Thanks. Appreciate hearing you mention some of the same things. The car has just been so relievable it's just so Un-Lexus like. lol!

 

Sounds exactly like the same symptoms I had on another car .
After you get a new starter installed, the starting sound will have a higher pitch, and your car will start in a fraction of a second.

 

So everything but the engine turns on (the whole dash lights up - i.e. you're in "Ignition ON mode"). This is, afaik, only possible to do with a single press of the starter button if you were trying to start the car, but it didn't for some reason. Anyways, I'd probably rule out the brake switch if that's the case - it will require two presses to go into "IG ON" (it's "off" -> "ACC / accessory" -> IG On". The car should set a DTC - "startability malfunction" or something like that. Weird that they say that it doesn't under such conditions.

 

Yep based on what its doing starters failing will fail to start. One other I forgot to mention. When I 1st took it to Dealer service drive, and it started then 2nd, 3rd and more attempts it would not start. They put a battery jump box on it. It still would not start with the jump box on it.

Yes it is weird, and frustrating also. No indications on the dash warnings, no Tecstream scan problems came up on test. Just to explain again because it was confusing to me. I get in the car, hit start. Dash lights up and everything EXECPT the engine does nothing and wont turn over at all, and won't even try to start. NO noise, no click, no beep, nothing at all. Like there is No battery in the car, except, it lights the dash as if I forgot to put my foot on the brake. Hit the button again when does not start the 1st time, and it just turns off everything, and dash lights go out like you cut off and are getting out to park the car?. Repeat to start, same thing happens. Like PGA71 said..... typical of a intermittently starter that failing and/or overheating then wont engage?

 

Posting this 2nd post because.... with this kinda of problem there is a 50/50 that it still does the same thing after I get it back with the new starter. Then got to start looking at the Start button and/or Brake switch next or other?

Full Disclosure - So my car is Modded some what.

Flow Bench Port matched upper and lower intake Manifolds. 3-4mm enlarged TB. Light weight Crank and water pump pulleys. Accel hotter Coils. Long tube equal length Headers, Hi Flow Cats, Tanabe Axel back exhaust system. D3 Performance Tune. AEM CAI Full Cone Filter Intake. I had No CEL's or problems at all prior to this. The Mods have been on there for 9months to 1 1/2 years. I have though about these changes, but cannot see where any of them after being on so long would have any effect on a No Crank recent problem. The TB I got off of Ebay used and has been on there for 9months. It does have a electronic connection harness on the TB.

I can't see a reason why that any of this would effect a no crank start, nor put any stress on the starter itself long term. I also though about the D3 Performance Tune reload of the ECU mapping. Only thing is I could not see a Software ECU remap, starting one time then not starting another, then starting again? It's been on there about a year. Again no problems ever.

Only thing I can think of even crazy is the Headers? Maybe they are Generating more heat down there near the Starter? Only problem with this is, they were highly extra thick Ceramic coated with multiple coats. Then wrapped with Lave wrap header insulation wrap, very thick. They are actually generating less heat than the Stock exhaust manifolds. I can just about wrap my hand around them when the engines running, they are that insulated. IDK??

 

It could just be bad luck and a prematurely failing component that was built on a Monday.

Many states have laws that allow you to request the old parts for inspection, or to even keep them, after the repair has been done. Maybe you're able to exercise that when they're done shotgunning.

 

You've got a lot going on with various mods that could have caused a 'conflict' for a control unit/module, but in all likelihood I think that would probably have thrown a code or been seen on Tecstream.

Try this:
Press the ignition switch so the instrument lights on the dash come on, then press the ignition switch again so the instrument lights go out. Now, open the driver's door and get out, then close the door. From outside of the car, open the driver's door again and close it three times. Then, open the driver's door, get in and start the engine.

 

The only mod that would be a bit "sus" is the tune - theoretically - and only because of the lack of CELs (i.e. it might theoretically be more than just a "remap").

Sounds like a nice car, though. Mind sharing a few engine bay & underbody pics for us mortals? xD