It has very tight space, i cant drill, i dont have welding kit how to take it out

 

with some patience you might be lucky....

1) Clean the area very well, spray with alcohol many times to clean up any residue left on it.
2) Take sandpaper, and sand with a low grit (maybe 100-300 grit??)
3) Try glues like JB WELD, or any other stronger metal adhesive (I don't know any others beside JB WELD) and glue the BOLT back together as best as possible (making sure not to accidentally glue the metal base you're trying to remove the bolt from). **NOTE: AFTER JB WELD CURES, MAKE SURE TO USE THE BEST PENETRATING FLUIDS FOR REMOVAL** (Link for best reference to the best penetrating oils i found the other day: )

You can also try to take really strong vice grips, shave 1 side, and shave the other side, (making the bolt flat), and turning it to remove the bolt.

GL!

 

thanks giving it a shot

 

I second using vice grips or even small vice grips, if all else fails use heat on the aluminum.

 

nothing worked, will it leak if i dont put that bolt in? Maybe i can use some gasket maker on that spot??

 

Is that a valve cover bolt? Can you fit a drill and a drill it out? Or if you have a dremel grind the side use a strong channel locks.

Did you not have luck with heat? Did you use a strong propane torch? Try this once you grind the edges, heat the bolt then hose it with pb blast or wd40. Then heat it again and with it very hot grab a tight grip on the channel locks and it should come off. Or if not loosly mount the cover drive to a fabrication/welding shop pay them to remove it, most likely they will weld a nut on it, in about 10min they will have it remove. But its best to fix it right or else it would most likely bother even if it didnt leak

 

yea valve cover bolt and i couldnt fit drill. Spoke with one shop and they try to rip me off...

 

Harbour freight sells air angle drills, or even cordless drills. Also you can put a jack with a block of wood on either side of the engine, to help give you an inch of lift. You can also crack loose the top engine mount bolts to give more space.

You dont know a friend with a mig welder or preferably a tig welder, wouldnt take long to zap a nut on that

 

that bolt shouldn't ever rust so did you crossthread it and it got stuck and you broke it? I broke 2 or 3 headbolts FLAT by overtorquing them on this car not realizing torque angle gauge doesn't work once the bolt is so tight that it starts binding.. but because the bolts head was snapped they were SUPER easy to get out. I just drilled a little hole in the bolt and hammered a small hex key in there just to turn it enough for me to be able to grab it with my fingers..

if it's stuck due to crossthread you might still be able to mig weld a nut onto whats left and try to turn it quick before the aluminum shrinks again, but not too quick to let the weld cool down and solidify. like 5-10 seconds