Knock Sensor Issues
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Knock Sensor Issues
Hello Everyone,
I have searched all over the place to find out where the knock sensors are located on a 2007 GS350 to no avail. The dash is lit up like a Christmas Tree and I had the codes read and stated that bank 2 sensor was throwing the code. The car runs fine and I can clear it out by unhooking the battery and it goes away for a while and comes back on. My last Toyota had the same issue and the knock sensors were located under the upper intake manifold. Not a difficult job, but required some work to reach the sensor.
I have searched all over the place to find out where the knock sensors are located on a 2007 GS350 to no avail. The dash is lit up like a Christmas Tree and I had the codes read and stated that bank 2 sensor was throwing the code. The car runs fine and I can clear it out by unhooking the battery and it goes away for a while and comes back on. My last Toyota had the same issue and the knock sensors were located under the upper intake manifold. Not a difficult job, but required some work to reach the sensor.
#2
http://workshop-manuals.com/lexus/gs...ion/locations/
hope that helped....
Google "Lexus 2GR-FSE knock sensor location"
There's probably more references under that term
https://www.google.com/search?q=gs35...ensor+location
hope that helped....
Google "Lexus 2GR-FSE knock sensor location"
There's probably more references under that term
https://www.google.com/search?q=gs35...ensor+location
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks. We've helped each other before a few times. Looks like upper intake has to come off to access. Tried to get it off tonight with no luck as I need a longer extension to get the last hex bolt off the rear. The intake has been off before a few times for a couple of recalls and the Lexus technicians pretty much stripped the front most hex bolt so it will require some extra work to get it off. I might just let a mechanic tackle it since I already spent an hour trying to get it off and I'm a little worried about stripping the rear most hex bolt.
Thie GS has really been a pretty solid car besides the few recalls and rear brake calipers. A guy t-boned my wife's Mercedes last summer so I gave her the GS and bought a new Nissan Murano.
Thie GS has really been a pretty solid car besides the few recalls and rear brake calipers. A guy t-boned my wife's Mercedes last summer so I gave her the GS and bought a new Nissan Murano.
#4
The knock sensor are in the valley below the fuel rails. keep in mind it is very important to keep the mount surface clean and torqued to the correct spec otherwise you could get false warnings
#5
Thanks. We've helped each other before a few times. Looks like upper intake has to come off to access. Tried to get it off tonight with no luck as I need a longer extension to get the last hex bolt off the rear. The intake has been off before a few times for a couple of recalls and the Lexus technicians pretty much stripped the front most hex bolt so it will require some extra work to get it off. I might just let a mechanic tackle it since I already spent an hour trying to get it off and I'm a little worried about stripping the rear most hex bolt.
Thie GS has really been a pretty solid car besides the few recalls and rear brake calipers. A guy t-boned my wife's Mercedes last summer so I gave her the GS and bought a new Nissan Murano.
Thie GS has really been a pretty solid car besides the few recalls and rear brake calipers. A guy t-boned my wife's Mercedes last summer so I gave her the GS and bought a new Nissan Murano.
I wish you the best of luck! It's unfortunate to hear about your wife's accident, I hope all is well for her!
Anything else definitely PM me and i'll see if I can help
#6
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Hi;
Quick question re: knock sensor code before my husband takes this to go pay the piper. Auto zone read code for me. (Code read P0330: Knock sensor 2 circuit: bank 2: this read as a current and past code)
The CEL has been going off and on for a couple weeks. When I asked why CEL would cycle like that, The nice guy at auto zone said it might be a bad connection to Knock Sensor. What do ya think? Looks like a tougher fix: Should we have both sensors replace and this stuff too: don't want to spend ANYTHING, but want to make the best decision. Thanks!
Quick question re: knock sensor code before my husband takes this to go pay the piper. Auto zone read code for me. (Code read P0330: Knock sensor 2 circuit: bank 2: this read as a current and past code)
The CEL has been going off and on for a couple weeks. When I asked why CEL would cycle like that, The nice guy at auto zone said it might be a bad connection to Knock Sensor. What do ya think? Looks like a tougher fix: Should we have both sensors replace and this stuff too: don't want to spend ANYTHING, but want to make the best decision. Thanks!
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
My experience with knock sensors is that they are just microphones tuned to pick up a certain frequency, which is engine detonation and then they will throw a code. On a Toyota it sets off the check engine light, VSC system and can even make the car go into limp mode. There are a lot of things that can cause them to go off. Bad connection, faulty sensor, fouled spark plugs and detonation, which is what they are designed to do.
Detonation can destroy an engine either quickly or over time, depending on the circumstances. I can't hear any detonation occurring on mine and the plugs are good so I believe it is related to the sensor. The sensors can be tested, but you have to get to it to test it and that is 75% of the cost.
If you are looking at any repair, I always look at the labor in relation to the parts and decide how far to go. If the second knock sensor is cheap enough, you have already paid the labor to get there so I say replace it. I hate paying for labor twice, especially at mechanics rates.
Detonation can destroy an engine either quickly or over time, depending on the circumstances. I can't hear any detonation occurring on mine and the plugs are good so I believe it is related to the sensor. The sensors can be tested, but you have to get to it to test it and that is 75% of the cost.
If you are looking at any repair, I always look at the labor in relation to the parts and decide how far to go. If the second knock sensor is cheap enough, you have already paid the labor to get there so I say replace it. I hate paying for labor twice, especially at mechanics rates.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
I would check to see if theres another electrical issue. Its very rare to see knock sensors go bad. Maybe you can clean the battery terminals, make sure the grounds are secure. Then check the plug on the knock sensor to see if its clear of any damgages.
It maybe possible to test the knock sensors on the vehicle with a multi meter
It maybe possible to test the knock sensors on the vehicle with a multi meter
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