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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:49 AM
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Default Brakes

I have a GS350 RWD. Are the front brakes hard to change? Also what are the best brake pads to get if I need new ones. Is there a thread to show step by step instructions on how to change front pads.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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Changing brake pads is pretty much the same for any car.

Take the wheels off, the pads are held in usually only by a cotter pin. Remove the pin, slide the old pads out and slide the new pads in. You might need to wedge something in between the caliper and the rotor to force it to open a bit more since the new pads will be thicker. Put the pin back in and done.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 11:15 AM
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Well....pushing fluid upstream when pushing the pistons back in as this will cause the MIL/VSC to trigger
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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if you need to push back the pistons, maybe try disconnecting the battery before changing the pads

disclaimer, this is my tip, don't hold me responsible
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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I'd just open the bleeder screw while compressing the piston. This'll allow the fluid to escape w/out allowing air into the system.

Like Henry, just a tip.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TWong1200
Well....pushing fluid upstream when pushing the pistons back in as this will cause the MIL/VSC to trigger
Why would that happen? The pistons move backwards a bit after every time you press the brakes. Granted it's probably a lot less than anything you'd do to replace the pads but certainly there must be some procedure for doing this that doesn't cause this...

Maybe the bleeders are what they do at the dealership. I'd be interested in knowing what the service manual says. The last time I had to replace brake pads was for my motorcycle (different animal, no ABS/Trac/Etc. nonsense), or for a Ford Taurus and the Taurus didn't care what I did with the brake fluid and went on it's merry way when I was done without a hiccup.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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This is a well-known thing on this car. The brakes are all electronic now. As you said, a whole different animal than your examples. The electronics do not like the backstream pressure caused by forcing the fluid back upstream. Dealers utilize their scan tools to electronically bleed the systems now. No more pump,pump open bleeder valve and whatnot. Even the good ol' gravity method won't work any longer I believe.
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Great. Pretty soon everything in a car is going to be a black box that only people with equipment costing thousands of dollars per task can work on.

So does this basically mean that it's very difficult to do a DIY pad/rotor change with these cars or even worse, that if you take it to an independent mechanic that even they will have no idea how to do the job properly?
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TWong1200
I'd just open the bleeder screw while compressing the piston. This'll allow the fluid to escape w/out allowing air into the system.

Like Henry, just a tip.
ah, now that's one great way to do it!

just need to make sure the no bubbles get in
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