Hi, I have a 2007 GS350 with the mark levinson audio. I believe my subwoofer is blown since it flutters with moderate bass. Now I'm aware of the people who chose to replace the foam instead of replacing the speaker completely. Instead, I actually would like to replace it with an aftermarket unit, and I believe I found one that could work, granted with some minor modification. I'm aware of the specs of the oem sub, so I found a sub that looks similar and has similar specs. Would I just be able to remove the oem sub from the mounting bracket and drill some new holes and screw the aftermarket sub in? Could I also use the stock amp to power the new one if I reattach the harness to the new speaker? Here is what the speaker looks like. I also made sure it was a free air sub like the oem one, the same size of 10 in, and same ohm rating of 8. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSD...-TS-D10D4.html
For reference, this is what the stock sub looks like. Like I said, would it be possible to drill some new holes into the bracket to secure the new sub in place?

 

If the sub physically fits then sure it will work. But that Pioneer has an extremely low efficiency rating, 76 dB that might be the lowest I've seen on any 10" sub. How about this, I sorta randomly selected.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RSB...50.html?tp=111

Key is knowing the cut-out diameter of the replacement and what the car has.

 

@LeX2K I've noticed though that the one you selected was not a free air sub. Would that work in this application?

 

Also how important is that sensitivity efficiency rating

 

I've done it, worked fine. Disclaimer: it worked for me it may not work in your car. I see why you selected that sub it's about the only free air spec that is 8 ohms. Frequency response says 20 - 6600 Hz that has to be a mistake maybe the sensitivity rating is also wrong.

If you don't get a speaker similar in sensitivity to the factory one you'll never get balanced sound.

 

Alright so I have done some research and found this polk subwoofer. It doesn't say it is a free air but some people have apparently used it in free air applications. Would this be a good choice? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM1...-1042-DVC.html

 

I have the ML system in my 460, which had a blown sub. I did what most did, and replaced it with the 8ohm 10" Goldwood. Paid abound $50. Had it for a couple years until that blew as well. Replaced it with a Dayton Audio, been fine so far. Had to adjust the trunk liner a little to fit it, since its larger (see last pic)







Dayton Audio left and Goldwood right.

 

Do you remember if the stock bracket was metal or plastic? Because if it's plastic I could probably modify it to fit the aftermarket sub.

 

The stock one was metal. Some people took the time to drill it out to make the new sub fit but I found it to be a weste of time. I simply swapped over the rubber ring gasket from the bracket to the underside of the new sub, and just dropped it in. The weight holds it down without an issue. And I had others in the FB group follow my example without issue as well. Up to you.



Also, carefully remove and save the old connector. You can just screw the new sub wires into it.

 

@Oceans13 So even if the sub is not screwed in it won't move around? Not even on speed bumps? Do you just let it sit there without fastening it down?

 

If yours isn't fastened down quick question. The polk sub I got is 8lbs. Would that be heavy enough to stay in place without moving around?

 

And since the lack of a bracket makes it so there are holes where it used to mount, would that impact the sound?

 

What did you end up doing?

 

@karm3 I ended up securing the subwoofer without the bracket by zip-tying it down using the existing bracket holes and routing them through the screw holes in the subwoofer. So 4 zip ties are holding it down. Works great.

 

Pics! Also, did you reuse the gasket? And which sub did you buy?