Hello.
on the way home today this knock sensor code turned up. Car completely under power and in 3rd gear so sluggish, feels like misfires.
How difficult for a knock sensor change ?

Plus I have a tapping noise somewhere from the rear cylinder on the brake master cylinder side.
Could be injector? One of the injector grey color this side while the rest blue and brown.
My car is right hand drive (UK)

🍻
Cheers
2001 gs430 with 155k .. all oem

 

Hello,

The Fail-Safe function for your code is Fixing the Ignition Timing dead at 0, and disabling O/D gear, as it is a pretty severe problem. Knocking can wreck the engine in a matter of seconds, hence why the ECU is so desperate to avoid it.

Knock sensors in those cars are located under the Intake Manifold, way in the valley on each head, about as difficult to access as a starter, which could be a good time to service while you are in there. Below is a video on how to access both.


The fact that your injectors are visibly different, and that you have issues with a cylinder that has a new injector makes me wonder what they used as a replacement. In cases like that, if you are not about to spend a fortune for new OEM injectors, I usually suggest looking for low mileage Used options, as those are not too prone to fail prematurely, and a chance of getting an actual OEM part is considerably greater.

OEM injectors are actually green and brown in color, makes me wonder how they were replaced having 3 separate groups of injectors. It may be a good idea to get a set of used ones and just replace them all for a peace of mind, those injectors are pretty common. The fact that the sound only appeared when the Knock Sensor went out may indicate that something is causing a Knock and the sensor was aiding to prevent it, so I would really suggest parking the car until the issue is resolved, as there is a potential to wreck the engine.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

I just changed knock sensors and starter on my 02 SC430 last weekend. If you would like, you can go over to the 2nd gen SC430 Forum and read about it. I believe it has 115 post and should still be on the first page. I had a rat chew through the Bank 1 sensor wire. At 162K miles, I saw no reason why not to change the starter while I was in there. Good luck.

Paul

 

Thank for the infos.
There is a small video and clearly able the hear those tapping noise.
or its a sticky valve?

 

Does the noise change with RPM or temperature?

Hmm, sounds like some electrical solenoid to be honest, like a Vacuum Switching Valve. See if there are any nearby, and try unplugging it to see if the noise would go away. I somehow missed the fact that the Brake Cylinder is on the opposite side with your steering wheel being in the glove box, but I am not sure if they switched the location of most of the valves that were on the other side in normal cars. (JK)

If nothing else, I would tackle the Knock Sensor first, just in case it changes something, and then look at the other options as to where the noise is coming from. Considering the severity of an already existing code, it is best to not drive a whole lot anyway..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Those noise is stays till 1500/2000rpm than goes away.. I think
I suspected maybe exhaust manifold leaks too,but no smell of gas whatsoever. I don't have any fault codes in the system, I mean no management light on it. Only have a Bluetooth obd reader sadly.

I'm in the uk 🇬🇧, so this is why everything on the wrong side . 🤪

Silly question, but I'm able to swap the injectors? Just maybe taking the last one out (close to the tapping noise) and putting to the front and lets see the noise still stays at the back or not..
other thing...
My car only have a valet key.. so I able to disconnect the battery for weeks without any issue?

 

update!
all injectors same red brick/brownish colors, only the plug is is a mixed color 🤣🤦‍♂️
silly me

 

Could be worse..

There is an easier way, you can just use a stethoscope or a long screwdriver to listen for a source of the noise, if it is an injector or a VSV nearby, you will definitely hear a very distinct sound coming from it, without any need of swapping them around.

Battery doesn't affect the Valet key. Technically the only difference is the way it's cut, and a set of limitations, like not being able to program any other keys using it, but you will not, or at least you really shouldn't, lose the key by disconnecting the battery.

That did sound a bit too surreal to be true anyway..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Exactly what I did today. Used a piece of extension bar from the socket set and listened the things. Its definitely not coming from the cylinder head ,so is not sticky valves. I think is those fuel rail pressure damper thing is louder than normal. Louder than yhe other side
I'm concentrating only now with the knock sensors , checking the vacuum pipes around and under the manifold , defo not touching the starter ( sound healthy asf and dont have issue for starting the engine ) and lets see what happens when all assembled together