i bought a project gs300 with the aristo swap almost completed. got it running but i'm having some issues. hoping someone can help.

my window switches aren't getting power. if i apply power to the switches then they work fine. it's like i'm not getting power from the bcm. everything else is getting power and works. anyone seen anything like this?

i'm also getting a 10 amp draw with the key off. what could possibly cause that much draw?

 

Stupid question for you. Do you check your fuses? Because you say that you apply power to the switch and then work fine. Also, open wire from the bcm?

Also, the battery maybe go bad or your altenator. Check both to see what happen with the alt. or the battery.

 

Is it all sides? When I was doing my stereo, auto winding wasn't working on the drivers window, and the left side windows weren't working, as I left a plug undone near the main harness, where it meets the firewall. This is on an Aus model car, where the main wiring comes through on the passenger (left) side, near the battery

 

all of the fuses are in good shape. it is all of the windows. if i supply power to the drivers side switch then any of the switches ca be used, which tells me that there aren't any cut wires. it's an easy fix to run a new wire to supply power to the drivers side switch but it would be nice to figure out the problem and fix it correctly.

my big worry is the 10 amp draw.... that's a lot. i would think it would have to be something big to pull that much. new battery. pulled alternator wires, disconnected starter wires. still showing draw. i've pulled all of the fuses in the main fuse block under the hood with no change in draw. other than a seat heater or defrost what else could actually cause that much draw?

 

found a used bcm#1 at a pick a part and replaced the one i had. woohoo the windows work!!!

started pulling connections off of the fuse box in the passenger kick panel to try and isolate the 10 amp draw. it started to jump from 9 amps to 11 amps as i disconnected different plugs. i'm at a loss at this point. it doesn't make much sense.

 

I read in another thread that many times the new alternator that you buy from any auto part and after install the alternator in us car does not work properly. You mentioned that the alternator was new or was working properly. How you made the troubleshooting to know that the alternator is working properly? Now I'm curious!!

 

alternator is not working properly but it was disconnected to try to isolate the draw. it didn't change with the alternator disconnected from the system. it's the battery that's new.

 

Found it!!!! It was the rear defroster that was pulling the 10 amps.

 

Good to know that you found the issue.

 

me to. one step closer to getting it finished.