Originally Posted by Lukas99GS

I would change the motor and transmission mounts, from what I've heard they make a big difference in smoothness and quietness, also you say your transmission fluid has never been changed at 170k? I'd be weary to change it, definately don't flush it. I was about to do the same to my car, and put a couple thousand to make it as like new as possible, but I've decided to just save for a newer model Lexus, my car just isn't worth enough money to justify it

Originally Posted by marshun

youve only done the drain and fill once? gotta do that more often

but the pbs is a poly replacement right? its not gonna have a sleeve

Originally Posted by DMPesso

I am real curious to know why people are saying outer tie rods but not inners which are more important for steering wheel stability. Change ALL tie rods and ALL control arms you can afford to change that have a bushing or ball joint which is most of them. At your mileage they are almost guaranteed in need of replacement and will only make the car drive much better. IMO the most important suspension parts to replace (not in order) are the struts, ball joints(most important), inner/outer tie rods(second most important), upper control arms, caster arms, sway links/bushings, wheel bearings(makes the car faster and roll/coast much easier) and engine/tranny mounts if you consider that part of the suspension. Changing all of these will restore the smooth/new ride and will take away the steering wheel shakes this car is known for.

Originally Posted by 01GS430

I will do drain and fill more often. I will bring to transmission specialist to have their opinions on what to do. Its ok not to use the sleeve on poly bushings because I want to do this asap?

Originally Posted by LuxuryGS3

The point of replacing the seals is if you're going to have off all of those covers then you might as well replace the seals while you're in there. That's like doing your timing belt and not touching the water pump. If you're gonna rip the s*** apart then take care of it then and there and pay for the labor one time rather than twice.

My car had less than 170k miles and my rear main seal and crank seal was leaking. While Jeff Tsai was in there he asked if I would allow him to rebuild the VVTI gear and the seal because those tend to leak on our engines when they get high miles. Mine wasn't leaking, but while he was in there why not? Why wait 5-10k more miles then have my car down again and have him rip apart everything AGAIN? Dish out the extra 100 or 200 and just have it all done at once. Save you time and headache later on. Same thing with the cam seals, he was in there so I had him do them also.

Plus it's not like he has 20k miles on his engine, they WILL start leaking soon. No doubt about it, so might as well.

Originally Posted by 01GS430

UPDATE: Lexus now have about 223k miles. Since 170k, I have changed the calipers with rebuilt caliper, VVTI solenoids on both bank, coolant top off (it was low), front end suspension bushings, control arms (upper), brake flush, and timing belt change around 18X,XXX miles (first timing change along with water pump, thermostat, tensioners, etc).

Right now, I am trying to bleed air from cooling system. I ran so low that air got introduced. At idle, cold air is blowing when set temp is at 85*, until you are moving. This tells me that there are air in system. I am trying to find a best way to bleed the air from cooling system. Any Advice?