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Maintenance Work? - Almost 170k miles

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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 12:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by LuxuryGS3
The point of replacing the seals is if you're going to have off all of those covers then you might as well replace the seals while you're in there. That's like doing your timing belt and not touching the water pump.
I would argue that no, it is not like that. When you change the timing belt, the water pump is readily accessible and is a routine replacement item. The rear main seal and valve cover gaskets are not related to this.

He has a V8 car, I'm not sure what the I6 guys have to do for a timing belt change but the valve cover does not come off on a 1UZ for a timing belt change.

It also seems like the V8 cars do not have the same gasket/seal leaking issues that alot of people seem to have with the I6. Almost every thread that I have ever read about an oil leak on this site was for a GS300.

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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sivikvtec
I would argue that no, it is not like that. When you change the timing belt, the water pump is readily accessible and is a routine replacement item. The rear main seal and valve cover gaskets are not related to this.

He has a V8 car, I'm not sure what the I6 guys have to do for a timing belt change but the valve cover does not come off on a 1UZ for a timing belt change.

It also seems like the V8 cars do not have the same gasket/seal leaking issues that alot of people seem to have with the I6. Almost every thread that I have ever read about an oil leak on this site was for a GS300.

I think the issue is that you are confusing seals. What should be done are the cam and crank seals, not the rear main and/or valve cover gasket.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 03:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Chin
I think the issue is that you are confusing seals. What should be done are the cam and crank seals, not the rear main and/or valve cover gasket.
On point Chin. I should have clarified, but yes that's what i'm mainly referring to when tearing it all apart of course.

I was just stating that in my situation my rear main seal and crank seal was leaking, so Jeff went through and saw that the cam seals were also leaking and that it would be wise if I had the VVTI gear rebuilt also so as to prevent leaking in the future. I'm very picky on who touches my car, Jeff does all of my engine work and he's very busy, so it was actually best for the both of us, lol. Keeps me from having to bother him again and keeps me from having to try and pin point a day that he can do work for me.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #19  
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I agree with you guys in regards to the I6, but the V8 is a completely different animal in regards to the cam seals.

OP, you better do some research regarding what is involved to replace the cam seals on our engines before you buy any parts. You might have second thoughts when you find out what is required and what its going to cost you if you don't DIY.... especially there are not any signs of leaks at this time.
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sivikvtec
I agree with you guys in regards to the I6, but the V8 is a completely different animal in regards to the cam seals.

OP, you better do some research regarding what is involved to replace the cam seals on our engines before you buy any parts. You might have second thoughts when you find out what is required and what its going to cost you if you don't DIY.... especially there are not any signs of leaks at this time.
Youre right, looks like the cams have to come out in order to replace the seals on the v8's but i guess he still has to ask himself how long does he plan on keeping the car, i personally would rather knock everything out now, than having to possibly go back in at a later date. These cars can last 400k easy, so if he plans on keeping it forever, it may be worth it...
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sivikvtec
I would argue that no, it is not like that. When you change the timing belt, the water pump is readily accessible and is a routine replacement item. The rear main seal and valve cover gaskets are not related to this.

He has a V8 car, I'm not sure what the I6 guys have to do for a timing belt change but the valve cover does not come off on a 1UZ for a timing belt change.

It also seems like the V8 cars do not have the same gasket/seal leaking issues that alot of people seem to have with the I6. Almost every thread that I have ever read about an oil leak on this site was for a GS300.

I also noticed that I6 are prone to get more leaks rather than V8 models.

Originally Posted by sivikvtec
I agree with you guys in regards to the I6, but the V8 is a completely different animal in regards to the cam seals.

OP, you better do some research regarding what is involved to replace the cam seals on our engines before you buy any parts. You might have second thoughts when you find out what is required and what its going to cost you if you don't DIY.... especially there are not any signs of leaks at this time.
I am DIY person however, timing belt change is something I dont want to mess up because it is now most important car in the family and My family can not afford another car. I had to sell my beloved '98 bmw m3 sedan with engine goodies/suspension stuff and '04 dodge ram hemi. The lexus see over 18k miles a year.

Originally Posted by Chin
Youre right, looks like the cams have to come out in order to replace the seals on the v8's but i guess he still has to ask himself how long does he plan on keeping the car, i personally would rather knock everything out now, than having to possibly go back in at a later date. These cars can last 400k easy, so if he plans on keeping it forever, it may be worth it...
My family and I plan to keep it forever seeing that My father originally bought it in '03. That is why I am asking on the board to make sure I am on the right track to do all the work and not to miss one part.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #22  
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I am still confused on Cam seals. It sounds that it is mandatory to replace. What is the process for this to be replace? I tried some searching.

I plan to order the timing belt kit with extended parts on sewell lexus parts website. I probably have someone to do this work since I dont want to ruin my motor.

Timing Belt
Water Pump w/Gasket
2 Idler Pulleys
2 O-Rings
Coolant
Extended Water Pump and Timing Belt kit includes the above plus
Timing belt tensioner
2 cam seals
1 front crank seal


For the transmission, I need to drop the pan to replace filter however, it has never been serviced yet. Should I drop it or just do drain and fill?
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 03:52 PM
  #23  
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Cam seals on a UZ vvt motor will be an additional 3 to 4 hours of labor on top of a timing belt job. That is if you have a competent mechanic who has done this before.
I would not touch them unless you are having head work done or they are leaking.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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I know you plan to order your parts at Sewell but rockauto has a kit for our car for uder $153.79. There is a coupon code "710F1AC6FB23" for 5% off. Apply the code where they ask "how did you hear about us?" My total came out to $157.36 with shipping. Read enough members feedback to go for it over the dealer. Things that are not included that I will purchase at the dealer:

Cam seals: 90311-71001/71002
Crankshaft seal: 90311-A0001
Tensioner: 13540-50030
Thermostat gasket: 16346-50010

EDIT: I am only doing the cam seals because I have a good mechanic and all only costing me $200 in labor. So why not right? But take FrankT word, if they leak do it, if not dont touch it.

Last edited by bigguppy; Feb 12, 2013 at 10:47 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 04:37 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FrankT
Cam seals on a UZ vvt motor will be an additional 3 to 4 hours of labor on top of a timing belt job. That is if you have a competent mechanic who has done this before.
I would not touch them unless you are having head work done or they are leaking.
That's good news for me because I KNOW it's not leaking anything. The engine doesn't even burn a drop of oil even at 170,105 miles and counting.

Originally Posted by bigguppy
I know you plan to order your parts at Sewell but rockauto has a kit for our car for uder $153.79. There is a coupon code "710F1AC6FB23" for 5% off. Apply the code where they ask "how did you hear about us?" My total came out to $157.36 with shipping. Read enough members feedback to go for it over the dealer. Things that are not included that I will purchase at the dealer:

Cam seals: 90311-71001/71002
Crankshaft seal: 90311-A0001
Tensioner: 13540-50030
Thermostat gasket: 16346-50010

EDIT: I am only doing the cam seals because I have a good mechanic and all only costing me $200 in labor. So why not right? But take FrankT word, if they leak do it, if not dont touch it.
I probably should do the cam seal on next timing belt. I am going to order thermostat from Toyota. Never had a problem with any cooling for 170k and counting. I am going to replace all fluids and service tranny before it starts to slip. I may do the fuel filter.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 04:59 AM
  #26  
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If you do the cam seals you might as well adjust the valve clearance or at least check it
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 06:04 PM
  #27  
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So $500 labor is good price? Timing belt stuff along with cam seals for that price. I am really tight on budget (family member laid off few years ago was main source of income).

my family and I (four of us) are using 2 cars (down from 4 cars). One is falling apart slowly. Lexus is only most reliable right now and cannot afford it to break down. Main transportation for long drives and such.
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Old May 5, 2015 | 08:29 AM
  #28  
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UPDATE:

My question is did the PBS bushings come with metal sleeves? Looks like that I am missing those.

The control arms are in pretty bad condition and killed both set of my tires (summer and winter). It is finally showing the age, the locking actuators are starting to stop working on driver's door and rear right passenger door. The mileage is around 198k miles, and still on original struts with no leaks.

Since the original post, I have done the following
-outer tie rods
-ball joints
-transmssion drain and fill
-Timing belt along with water pump

Need to do
-Control arm bushings (missing metal sleeve? for PBS bushings)
-Steering rack bushings
-New tires
-Alignment
-Servo motors
-Fix that a/c smell for summer season
-Doing Transmission service again
-Rear differential service
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Old May 5, 2015 | 03:07 PM
  #29  
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I would change the motor and transmission mounts, from what I've heard they make a big difference in smoothness and quietness, also you say your transmission fluid has never been changed at 170k? I'd be weary to change it, definately don't flush it. I was about to do the same to my car, and put a couple thousand to make it as like new as possible, but I've decided to just save for a newer model Lexus, my car just isn't worth enough money to justify it
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Old May 6, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #30  
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youve only done the drain and fill once? gotta do that more often

but the pbs is a poly replacement right? its not gonna have a sleeve
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